Technics 1210 - The Modification Rises

[AFX]

Well, my 1210 currently sits in bits waiting to be modified. I have a brand new Denon DL103R but as of yet no phono stage - I'm new to vinyl and turntables so I'd really appreciate any hints and tips to help me along. I want to modify the tonearm mainly. Here's the plan -

- to dampen inside the tonearm with three blobs of silicon (one in the middle and two either end).
- I want to rewire with cardas cable from cartridge ends straight to phono connections - so I will add cotton wool at each end of the arm to suspend the cable through the arm - and trace the cable through the bottom of the mount and out. I could do with a lot of advice here - if bypassing the internal solder points for the signal cable as I intend to do where is the best place for me to run the cable? I'm a bit worried about the cable moving or being pulled from within the arm.
- what about earthing?
- I will buy a new platter mat - am thinking of the Isoplatmat or Funk Firm Achromat.
- I will also buy a new headshell - Sumiko seems to be popular amongst you guys but having read some posts by Gdg (Giovanni) and it appears that even that headshell may be too light. I do have the opportunity to but an old headshell that weighs 14.5 grams - is that a better option than the Sumiko?
- will new feet really make much of a difference?
- Whist the turntable is in bits is there any dampening I could do internally?

I don't want to start spending too much so any other modification tips would be much appreciated.

As i said I am new to all this but I can solder and am good with cars so I fancy my chances - with your help!

Thanks

AFX

[Andrei]

Hello Ty
Many members here have been where you are now. A rewire will bring about a minor improvement in sound quality. It is rather difficult to envisage the physical nature of having a continuous run from the end of the tonearm to the phono stage. KAB USA do it in two stages. They sell a cardas kit that has the internal wire, then a replacement for the tiny pcb which has pre-soldered RCA wire. There is a great thread here on the Techiepedia somewhere with a step-by-step series of photos. A bit of damping with silicone or sorbothane will help too I guess. As for headshells, to make a difference you should get a carbon headshell (eg Oyaide) or one based on on ebony. In either case it is a minor tweak. The platter is a weakness in the 1210 so the Achromat is a good idea. If you are prepared to get your hands dirty you can look up the DIY platter thread. The same can be said for externalising the power supply. Another cheap and effective mod you can do is a service; open up your baby, give it a clean, treat all the contact points with caigs deoxit, pull the bearing apart, clean it and re-oil it with a good quality synthetic motor oil. If the bearing looks worn you can buy a new one for a few pounds.

It is essential that you minimise external vibration. Unless you have some fancy wall mount platform then pound for pound the best improvement you can do is to replace the dreadful feet with isonoe feet. Finally you can internally dampen the chassis. In my case I have put a product called Dynamat Extreme on bare points in the chassis.

Over-all I would say you have come to the right place. Take you time looking through the threads on the Techiepedia and you will soon get a feel for what does what.

[walpurgis]

Personally I'd try the heavier headshell. The 103 likes a bit of mass.

[AFX]

Personally I'd try the heavier headshell. The 103 likes a bit of mass.

Thanks. I imagine there must be a cut off point for weight - I mean the needle must be more abrasive on records the heavier the shell? This is also where I get confused because don't cartridge manufacturers specify the weight needed for a particular cartridge? I use lead weight tape to add weight to my tennis rackets perhaps I could use this on a headshell. With a 14 gram headshell do I then need to buy another counterweight?

[AFX]

Thanks for the reply. I don't like the look of Isonoe feet! What about Vantage audio feet?


I'll definitely try the dynamat and service! Cheers.

[markx]

I would recommend 50mm Sorbo pods as a cost effective footer upgrade:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SORBO-PODS-50MM-REAL-SOROBOTHANE-FEET-VERY-EFFECTIVE-INSPIRE-HI-FI-/301308829197?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiF i_Turntables&hash=item462767de0d

[Andrei]

Thanks for the reply. I don't like the look of Isonoe feet! What about Vantage audio feet?

I'll definitely try the dynamat and service! Cheers.

I don't know about the vantage feet, but vibration has to be addressed. Something with sorbothane should be good. The Isonoe feet were as big an upgrade as my tonearm or external power supply. Apparently they come in black as well, that look a hell of a lot better.

[DarrenHW]

Hi Ty, welcome to AoS!



- to dampen inside the tonearm with three blobs of silicon (one in the middle and two either end).

Interesting plan, I used plain old cotton wool myself but silicon seems like a good idea, it will add more mass than just cotton wool which I don't think would be a bad idea as your going to use a 103R.



- I want to rewire with cardas cable from cartridge ends straight to phono connections - so I will add cotton wool at each end of the arm to suspend the cable through the arm - and trace the cable through the bottom of the mount and out. I could do with a lot of advice here - if bypassing the internal solder points for the signal cable as I intend to do where is the best place for me to run the cable? I'm a bit worried about the cable moving or being pulled from within the arm.
- what about earthing?

I have done the same, I like the fact that you then have the least amount of physical breaks or changes in the signal cable, plus it's also the cheapest way to do it, I would say this is a massive improvement over the stock wire. I think the cheapest place to buy the wire from is KAB (http://www.kabusa.com/frameset.htm?/), only takes about a week to arrive from USA. I'd recommend some MS Audio plugs to terminate the wire (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301283837373?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649). Originally I used Cardas GRCM plugs but I found they were just to heavy for the tiny wires (they really are tiny). Rewiring is relatively straight forward, strip 300(ish)mm of the outer and feed it through the bottom of the arm and out to the bayonet, use the existing strain relief in the metal plate on the bottom of the TT to clamp the wire were it exits, allow a little bit of slack and terminate at the bayonet. The internal signal wire can be removed leaving the ground in place, you just then have to join an additional wire to this to run to your phono stage. Take a look at this (http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/vinyl/messages/84/844057.html), I followed the same procedure but ultimately removed the perf board as I couldn't see any advantage.



- will new feet really make much of a difference?

I thought so, I use basic sorbathane footers similar to those recommended above (although Isonoes are highly regarded), best 60 second mod for the TT.



I don't want to start spending too much so any other modification tips would be much appreciated.

As Andrei recommends above, externalising the PSU is a great SPP mod, you can just whip it out and stick it in a box (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?22954-A-quick-visual-guide-to-externalising-PSU-from-your-Technics-SL-1200) at very little cost, you could start here and take it further if you want.

:goodluck:

[6L6]

- to dampen inside the tonearm with three blobs of silicon (one in the middle and two either end).

Please don't. You will ruin any chance for repair or modification at a further point.


- I want to rewire with cardas cable from cartridge ends straight to phono connections

Not a bad idea. I however don't think it's worth the bother, and a good arm re-wire gets you 90% of the way there.

Have you seen this? -- http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?26652-Rewiring-SL-1200-Tonearm&p=462165#post462165



- I will buy a new platter mat - am thinking of the Isoplatmat or Funk Firm Achromat.

The Acromat is fantastic, I love it and wouldn't think of using the Techie without it. I have no experience with the Isoplatmat.



- I will also buy a new headshell - Sumiko seems to be popular amongst you guys but having read some posts by Gdg (Giovanni) and it appears that even that headshell may be too light. I do have the opportunity to but an old headshell that weighs 14.5 grams - is that a better option than the Sumiko?

If using a DL103, more headshell mass is a good thing.


- will new feet really make much of a difference?

Sweet mother of god, yes. The stock feet are complete rubbish, and even placing vibrapods under them makes a noticeable improvement. I've used that, sorbothane hemispheres, and Isonoes, the Isonoes are far and away the best. I read that you don't care for the looks of them, I strongly invite you to reconsider. Their performance is exemplary.


- Whist the turntable is in bits is there any dampening I could do internally?

Sure. try what you think might make a difference and see what happens. I'm sure of you find improvements we would love to know.


I don't want to start spending too much so any other modification tips would be much appreciated.

This is the biggest bang for the money - http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?26620-SL-1200-DC-Power-Supply-DIY

Here's a less prototypey version - http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?28607-DIY-PSU-amp-Regulator

In order of importance, IMO

Mat and Feet (equally important)
PSU
Arm re-wire

In your case, getting suitable mass into the arm (heavier headshell) is also very important, to give proper balance against the DL103 stiffer cantilever.

[AFX]

Please don't. You will ruin any chance for repair or modification at a further point.



Not a bad idea. I however don't think it's worth the bother, and a good arm re-wire gets you 90% of the way there.

Have you seen this? -- http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?26652-Rewiring-SL-1200-Tonearm&p=462165#post462165




The Acromat is fantastic, I love it and wouldn't think of using the Techie without it. I have no experience with the Isoplatmat.




If using a DL103, more headshell mass is a good thing.



Sweet mother of god, yes. The stock feet are complete rubbish, and even placing vibrapods under them makes a noticeable improvement. I've used that, sorbothane hemispheres, and Isonoes, the Isonoes are far and away the best. I read that you don't care for the looks of them, I strongly invite you to reconsider. Their performance is exemplary.



Sure. try what you think might make a difference and see what happens. I'm sure of you find improvements we would love to know.



This is the biggest bang for the money - http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?26620-SL-1200-DC-Power-Supply-DIY

Here's a less prototypey version - http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?28607-DIY-PSU-amp-Regulator

In order of importance, IMO

Mat and Feet (equally important)
PSU
Arm re-wire

In your case, getting suitable mass into the arm (heavier headshell) is also very important, to give proper balance against the DL103 stiffer cantilever.

Thanks for the advice! Is there an ideal mass/weight then? Surely you get to a point where you have to worry about wear on your records?

[6L6]

Thanks for the advice! Is there an ideal mass/weight then? Surely you get to a point where you have to worry about wear on your records?

Tracking force and tonearm mass are two different things. You need a bit of extra mass in the tonearm (heavier headshell, possibly heavier counterweight), because the DL103 suspension is so stiff, it needs something to push against, so to speak.

That said, you still want to track at the recommended force. (probably 2 grams or so...)

[Soundeck]

Take a look at this web page, there are unbiased reviews and videos showing IsoFeet & IsoPlatMat. If you mention art of sound with your order I will refund 10% of SDS price.

http://www.sounddampedsteel.com/hifi.html

Best Regards

Les

[Paul Lange]

I bought a SDS isomat platter quite a few years ago, deadens the ringing in my Garrard 401 platter completely. Excellent pieces of kit. You could argue they are a bit expensive but they are the sort of things that you'll keep for ages.

IMHO I think pumping blobs of silicone into your tonearm is a bad idea. A better idea would be to find something like a plastic straw slighter larger in diameter to the tonearm wand and pump silicone into that. Once dry you can cut the straw away and will be left with a cylinder of silicone that you can cut to shape and insert into the wand. This way the mod can be removed easily but will perform the same. You can also weigh the silicone inserts which may be help later on when you check cartridge / arm suitability.