How to Connect an External Dc Supply to the SL-1200/1210

[Mike_New]

Mike, I've just put my Transfiguration Axia on ebay with no reserve in an effort to raise funds for your bearing... It's only a matter of time now.

Richard,
You are obviously genuinely keen so I will reserve the last bearing in the batch for you!!! The next batch of 25 will be available about the middle of March. It's strange, I have had a rush of 5 sales since Dec. from Asia and the US.

[Marco]

Hi Will,

I've been wondering about doing this, but I'm not sure I can be bothered! I've not noticed any problems with it attached as per the Timestep instructions. What would the reason be for changing it - is it dangerous as is or perhaps there would be some performance benefit?

There is a performance benefit, which is that I've found it reduces acoustic feedback on the T/T (exactly why, I'm not sure - perhaps where the ground wire was before, it was more susceptible to picking up vibration and transferring it to the platter?), and this has the benefit of 'cleaning up' the top end, reducing noise too, and giving a notably more 'precise' and detailed presentation.

Aside from that, in order to ensure the correct Zero-Volt earth point for the PCB, what has been described is unquestionably the correct place on the PCB for the ground tag to go, so would you be happy knowing that you've currently got it in the INCORRECT place?

I know that I wouldn't!

Do it. Trust me, you won't be sorry that you did.

Marco.

[misterharrison]

Aside from that, in order to ensure the correct Zero-Volt earth point for the PCB, what has been described is unquestionably the correct place on the PCB for the ground tag to go, so would you be happy knowing that you've currently got it in the INCORRECT place?

I think that's what's known as "em-OCD-ional blackmail", Marco!

I've got some time this afternoon, so I think I'll have a go. The most annoying thing, as far as I can recall, was unclipping and then reclipping the cable-tie mechanism that grips the lead on its way through the hole in the base.

[Marco]

Oh, I've just remembered what Mike New said before about this:

If any other earth point is used, then the 0 volt circuit will be via the alluminium chassis. The die cast alluminium is to an extent granular and is certainly not a good conductor, thus you will have a resistance (and noise) to earth which could seriously degrade performance.

Having tried it and compared the difference, he is absolutely right!

Like I said, I also found that it reduced acoustic feedback, possibly because with the ground wire now not connected via the chassis, it (and the whole T/T, as a result) is better isolated from the effects of vibration.

Marco.

[Marco]

I think that's what's known as "em-OCD-ional blackmail", Marco!

Lol! I think it's called dotting I's and crossing Ts

I've got some time this afternoon, so I think I'll have a go. The most annoying thing, as far as I can recall, was unclipping and then reclipping the cable-tie mechanism that grips the lead on its way through the hole in the base.

Nice one - please report back with the results, as I'm curious to know what you think. For best results, make sure when soldering the ground tag that it is located precisely as Mike describes here (in his post #141):

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...t=6819&page=15

...noting this in particular:

The printed circuit board is only a 'single layer' board (referring to the copper layer)
Now the actual, absolute Zero-Volt earth point for the PCB is therefore on the underneath side of the PCB. Not on the top surface.

It therefore follows, that for the lowest resistance possible between the earth tag and the 0 volt line of the circuitry, the earth tag must be connected on the underside of the PCB, where the copper track is.

Marco.

[sonddek]

You are obviously genuinely keen so I will reserve the last bearing in the batch for you!!! The next batch of 25 will be available about the middle of March. It's strange, I have had a rush of 5 sales since Dec. from Asia and the US.

Please do hold it for me. My Axia auction on ebay ends this evening, so I will paypal you as soon as I receive payment, hopefully tomorrow.

[sonddek]

A little update on removing the power supply:

When I first installed my Timestep PSU I noticed an apparent increase in clarity, separation and smoothness of tone. A less congested sound if you like. It wasn't an enormous change, but it was a worthwhile one.

Subsequently I have heard people doubting that this improvement occurs. I have also heard it suggested that any improvement simply arises from removing the power supply.

Tonight I did an A/B comparison switching between stock Techie and DACMagic. Then I removed the power supply and put it in a separate box, and carried out the same A/B with the DACMagic.

The result, to my ears, was that while the stock Techie had sounded a bit congested with poor separation and stereo imaging, and a bit shrill compared to the DACMagic, after the power supply removal the Techie did better, in the same sort of way I had noticed with my original installation of the Timestep PSU.

In brief, now that I've done something resembling a real A/B comparison, I'm leaning towards the view that removing the power supply really does improve the deck, and I think it's not impossible that the lion's share, or even all of the improvement that people hear with custom power supplies is down to this step, rather than the power supply itself.

I'm not saying fancy expensive power supplies offer no improvement; I don't know the answer to that, and I need to do some more real A/B comparisons before I form a view. I'm just saying that I'm now pretty sure that you can have a significant part of that upgrade more or less for free, by just removing the transformer.

[chris@panteg]

Hi Richrad

This is more or less what Richard (vantage audio) has been telling me ! And in fact the OEM psu components are actually of a very high quality , the internal regulator is also no where near as bad as some think , removing the psu to a separate box is where to start.


The more i learn about this deck , the more respect i have for the original design .

[Marco]

Hi Richard,

Nice one, and thanks for taking the time to post your findings, which I actually agree with

Having that big lump of iron sat underneath the platter is a sonic no-no! And yes, the stock PSU is probably pretty good. I wouldn't have expected the Matsushita engineers to have fitted crap.

However, where you really start to hear the differences quality off-board PSUs make is when you compare different ones against each other....

I've compared the stock Timestep PSU to the Paul Hynes SR3 and SR5, and also the SR3 to the SR5, and the differences aren't subtle!

The SR3 makes the stock Timestep PSU sound broken (I can go into more detail on this if you wish) and the SR5 simply annihilates it. There is also a marked difference between the SR3 and SR5.

Therefore simply by experimenting, there are undoubtedly improvements to be had in that area.

Of course, I haven't compared any of the above to the stock Techincs PSU, fitted into an external box. However, as good as it is, I'd expect something like the SR5 to comfortably outperform it, albeit at some cost.

It would certainly be an interesting comparison to carry out sometime. If you're coming to the Scalford Hall show, maybe bring your PSU with you and we can try swapping them on my T/T to see what happens?

Marco.

[JazzBones]

Hi Richrad

This is more or less what Richard (vantage audio) has been telling me ! And in fact the OEM psu components are actually of a very high quality , the internal regulator is also no where near as bad as some think , removing the psu to a separate box is where to start.


The more i learn about this deck , the more respect i have for the original design .

G'day Chris, Has Richard of Vantage Audio actually lived with a 12XX sampling the various PSUs available, viz: KAB, Timestep standard and HE, Paul Hynes SR3 and SR5, and what others that are available? No way am I having a go at Richard, I don't know him but from reputation I would make use of his experience and service, but a thought does come to my mind that you can only base a finding on actual hands on experience over time. Even a quality pickup cartridge changes from virginal new to better performance over a period of time bedding in (no pun therefore, one must live with a piece of equipment in a known and familiar context for a period of time before arriving at a conclusion which boils down to either (a) Yup, this is good and it stays, or (b) I'm not convinced and its not for me? The Matsushita engineers have produced a marvellous TT as anyone who has delved into its innards will verify so the original PSU will be a good'un whether in situ or satelite. From my personal experience my TS HE PSU has improved my 1210 as has my MN bearing. The 1210 tone arm
is not as bad as its made out to be but could do with a little fettling and it will do until funds permit a premier league arm if so wished. A Jelco 750D is not mind numbing expensive and punches way above its price band.

Hats off to those good bods out there that have taken the 12XX beyond what was conceived by the audiophile 20 or 30 years ago, respect

Ron