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Thread: replacing lower spriing grommet on a Heybrook TT2

  1. #1
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Krems/Wachau/Austria/Europe

    Posts: 132
    I'm Michael.

    Default replacing lower spriing grommet on a Heybrook TT2

    When servicing my TT2 I noticed that the lower spring grommet on one of the springs had disintegrated. Since the Heybrook grommets have an inset for a hex nut I suppose using Linn grommets is not possible.
    Has anyone around here had a similar problem?
    Or perhaps any spares left?
    Or was that grommet a "standard" part, that might still be available somewhere?
    many thanks
    Michael

  2. #2
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

    Default

    Id have a word with Guy at Puresound, he'll most probably have some 'TT2' spares.

    When dissasembling the 'TT2' suspension, please take note the position of the marks on the springs.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Krems/Wachau/Austria/Europe

    Posts: 132
    I'm Michael.

    Default

    thanks for the input, just sent mail to puresound ...
    I hope there is a solution other than gluing together the hexnut part of the grommet and the lower grommet of an LP12
    Thank god, the factory position of the springs is marked in red.
    ;-)
    Michael

  4. #4
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Krems/Wachau/Austria/Europe

    Posts: 132
    I'm Michael.

    Default thanks to shane the TT2 is back on stage

    took apart the LP12 today, put together all the best bits:
    TT2, rewired Heybrook labeled RB250, michell vta and fingernut, expressimo heavyweight, Stanton 681eee Mk2, cardas cable, Heed Orbit, Trichord Dino …





    the result is pure analogue bliss …
    ;-))
    Michael

  5. #5
    Join Date: Feb 2012

    Location: Falun, Sweden

    Posts: 2,245
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    I'm sure it sounds luverly! Did Guy sort you out with a new grommet?
    Regards //Mike

  6. #6
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Krems/Wachau/Austria/Europe

    Posts: 132
    I'm Michael.

    Default

    unfortunately Guy did have none left, but Shane found one in the back of a drawer, so the TT2 is back to original without the need to DIY …
    ;-)
    Michael

  7. #7
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,717
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Good to see it back on the road!

    I see you've got two through-bolts holding the arm-board to the chassis. It might be worth experimenting with the tightness of the one furthest from the platter. Originally, only one was tightened, the other serving just to locate the board. The slightly lossy coupling usually improved definition.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Krems/Wachau/Austria/Europe

    Posts: 132
    I'm Michael.

    Default

    thanks shane for the mention of the second bolt. I still have the "original" Linn geometry board which has the second bolt without threads wrapped in some isolation material.
    I like the two threaded version better. The amount of detail it provides is tremendous.
    Compared to my pre-circus LP12 levels of details are much more discernible, dynamics jump right out. I ascribe that to the rigid coupling via cast subchassis, 18mm birchply tightly screwed onto the chassis and the rigid RB250 construction.
    A great step forward was the heavyweight and the dino. The Stanton is a very neutral cart with great dynamics.
    Please accept my apologies for babbling around, but I am very happy with this setup at the moment …
    ;-)
    Michael

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