FS Marantz CD63 MKII- serious modifications

[UV101]

Ok so a couple of times a year, I build a modified 63 or 67 to assist with my obsession building and modifying HiFi. Right now, I'm mid way through building ANTs Kora phono stage and I need funds to pay for the premium parts I need furnish the board Alex kindly sold me. To that end, I have spent a few evenings turning another CD63 into a giant killer!! ( I also fancy a mike bearing for me Techie!!!!)

I've done well over 10 of these now and they are getting pretty neat!
I use Rubycon low impedance low esr caps on analogue rails, Nichicon Solid polymer (extremely low ESR) on digital rails and a mix of panasonic TSUP and FC as smoothers (reservoir) caps before the regulators. These are what I have chosen after many hours trying different types. These represent great value for money and excellent sonic characteristics. I usually fit my own regs and clocks but in this one I've used up some prototype bits to keep the cost down.

Its a basic CD63 but its a MKII which means its actually an SE (has the SE cross brace) but without the additional baseplate (don't worry about this because the bitument damping more than makes up for the baseplate!) In fact the difference between it an the KI are the transformer is better in the KI, it has a copper plated chassis and it has a badge!

Extensive Modifications

Audio PSU and output stage
Replace pre reg reservoir caps with oversize Panasonic TSUP 6800uF (2)(increase) (Int/ext remote switch removed to allow space for fitment)
Replace post reg caps with Rubycon ZLH 470uF low impedance (2)
Replace opamp caps with Rubycon ZLH 470uF (4)
Modify filter characteristics to Bessel filter with 470pF styrene caps (2)
replace opamps with Nat Semi LM47920NA on gold rolled pin sockets to enable opamp rolling if required (2)
Bypass HDAM and remove HDAM connectivity to PSU
Disconnect headphones circuit including PSU

Servo and 5v PSU
Replace pre +5v reservoir cap with Panasonic TSUP 22,000uF (1)
Replace post +5 regulator cap with Rubycon ZL 1800uF (1)
Replace unregulated -10v rail reservoir cap with Panasonic FC2200uF (1)
Replace all driver IC rails caps with Rubycon ZLH 470uF (6)
Replace servo rail and vref caps with Nichicon Solid polymer 330uF (3)

RF amp
Replace cap with Nichicon Solid polymer 330uF (1)

HF amp
Replace PSU cap with Nichicon Solid polymer 330uF (1)
HF toward decoder Replace ceramic cap with styrene 2200pF (1)

Decoder
Replace PSU cap with Nichicon Solid polymer 330uF (2)

DAC
Replace Digital PSU cap with Nichicon Solid polymer 330uF (2)
Replace Analogue PSU cap with Rubycon ZLH 470uF (2)
Separate analogue PSU and regulate with MIC5219 ultra low noise regulator
Separate analogue PSU and regulate with MIC5219 ultra low noise regulator
*these are prototype and built on vero. The soldering is untidy and the SMT regs are glued to the vero.

Clock
The clock in this player is a hybrid
The oscillator is a Trichord low phase noise high quality oscillator.
The regulator for the oscillator is an Audiocom super reg 2
There is a clock divider to enable direct high quality clock to be fed to both the DAC and Servo directly. The circuit incorporates inductor PSU separation to reject noise between the oscillator and divider chip and local Nichicon solid polymer PSU caps (2)

Other
Microprocessor on separate std regulator (to stop its noise polluting the rest of the player)
Headphones circuit disconnected from audio lines and PSU
Laser and spindle motor replaced (single assembly)
Mains replaced with IEC socket to allow use with better mains cable is required.
Although not fitted yet, the case will be treated with bitumen damping once soak test is completed.

What can you expect? well its well known these player mod very well. The mods here should give you clearer better defined and accurate mids and tops and the bloated ploddy bass should be much tighter and controlled. Overall it should sound more accurate balanced and together.....blah blah blah I could just go on but I'd rather you just tried it if you fancy the sound of it!!

I'm looking for £250 plus £15 insured p&P and it will be ready for despatch after the weekend. I will offer a 3 month guarantee although in the unlikely event of an issue, I'll obviously sort (within reason) after that time. I'll also offer a no quibble 14 day period. If you don't like it, send it back for a refund (less the postage!!!)

Just testing the water to see if there is any interest before it hits ebay!

Photo's from my phone at the moment and the cross brace hasn't been refitted. I'll update pics when I take the decent ones.....

Thanks for looking

*EDIT Just noticed I described all the analogue caps as Rubycon 470uF ZLH in the description. They are in fact all ZLG which are even lower impedance than ZLH which is more desirable. Also tidied up some spelling

[bronzeage]

Hi Ian

I am very interested in buying, don't put it on the bay !

[Barry]

What make are those electrolytic capacitors with the red flash on the top and marked "FP"?

[HoraceW]

They look very much like Nichicon FPCAP's. Conductive polymer types. Sanyo make some nice ones too.

Hugh

[UV101]

Hi Ian

I am very interested in buying, don't put it on the bay !

Its wouldn't be going on before next week now in any case. I'll get it finished with the damping and all back together and get a couple of better pics up. PM me if you are interested

What make are those electrolytic capacitors with the red flash on the top and marked "FP"?

Hi Barry, they are 330uF/6.3v Nichicon NS solid polymer

http://docs-europe.electrocomponents...6b80ebdd03.pdf

They are excellent value for money and awesome on digital rails.

They look very much like Nichicon FPCAP's. Conductive polymer types. Sanyo make some nice ones too.

Hugh

Yep indeed. I like to use the Oscon SEPC where budget permits. The Nichicons are about as good on paper but are about 30% of the price

[Barry]

Thanks Ian.

[UV101]

OK so Ive finished off the player this afternoon and it will run on soak test over the weekend.

I've added the damping and changed the display from green to blue as I think it looks way cooler!!!

There are a few scratches on the lid which are visible on close inspection and have been touched up. There is also a scratch above the Marantz badge in the top of the front panel which I've included before and after touch up pics. Condition is about 9/10 (conservative on my part) . Display has good uniform brightness. It will be dimmer than standard due to the blue filter. I can remove this if you prefer.

Bronzeage I've sent you a PM and an email

Bitumen damping applied to the base and sides


Main board refitted


Transport refitted


MKII and SE Crossbrace fitted


Lid damping applied


Better pics showing the condition of the case




Touched up scratch
Before and after




Blue display

[UV101]

Now SOLD to Bronzeage!

Thanks. I'll keep it running over the weekend and get is sent Monday so should be with you Tuesday.

[Xapito]

Hi

If not a secret, how do you add the blue filter?

[Puffin]

I modded a 63 recently picked up at Tonbridge Audiojumble for £20 (it looked like it had been kicked around a football pitch!) After some wet and dry and a re-spray it looks pretty good.

I have done many of the mods in the Diyaudio 1800 page thread, and also as listed on the Acoustica site, PS caps, by-pass HDAM's, tantalums on the pins of the DAC chip, 5v regulators all over the place, grounded the crystal (no clock mod), disconnected HPhone socket etc, added a JLH ripple eater to the separate 12v feed for the 5v regs, bitumen sheets all over it Sockets for the op-amps and GD Audio discrete (Earth) op-amps

I never even listened to it before I ripped it apart. Sounds pretty good to me.