After quite some time, I am reactivating this thread, to ask whether anyone has heard the Rogers AB3a subwoofer. https://www.rogers-hifi.uk/rogers-ab...bwoofer-system
If yes, what were the impressions?
Thanks in advance.
Location: Greece
Posts: 249
I'm Panos.
After quite some time, I am reactivating this thread, to ask whether anyone has heard the Rogers AB3a subwoofer. https://www.rogers-hifi.uk/rogers-ab...bwoofer-system
If yes, what were the impressions?
Thanks in advance.
System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII
System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.
System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0
Location: limerick
Posts: 223
I'm charles.
With the budget you mentioned I suggest 2 X SVS SB1000. These 2 small subs will I think enhance your sound more than a single huge expensive brute. The 2 subs can be positioned where convenient and dialled in with their continuously variable phase. If a sub does not have this feature then I would not consider it at all.
The SVS SB 1000 is recommended because of the simple fact that without the output from a port, they are easier to integrate and the ability to adjust from your listening position is great. As you are probably aware they can do a lot more than adjust phase.
I use the volume presets on mine and toggle between 'music' and 'movies' which I have set 5dB higher. My room is approx, 35 square meters and this little sub plus a small REL fill the room with sound. There are times when I really crank the sound and there is no sign of stress. BTW if I could only keep one sub I'd keep the SVS.
Discopants linked to an article on the benefits of multi-subs. If you read that then you will understand that movable subs are intended to be positioned so that constructive and destructive combination of bass waves are somewhat reduced, smoothing out the lower frequencies.
The Rogers AB3a Active Subwoofer looks very nice especially with the LS3/5A perched on top, however, with the AB3A subs restricted to living underneath the speakers you are giving up the ability to optimise the room's performance. At their asking price you could get 3 of the SVS subs which in my opinion will outperform the Rogers' solution.
I don't have shares in SVS
Location: Greece
Posts: 249
I'm Panos.
Hi Charles,
I agree that the Rogers AB3a is a rather expensive sub. It is obviously by design a good match for the LS3/5a, with the only caveat that if there are any standing waves in the room, the AB3a cannot change their position to remedy that. So, only room treatment might work in that case.
My room is 14.5sqm and I am looking for a small but fast sub, that can keep up with the LS3/5a speed. I have the following two options in mind:
a) SVS 3000 Micro, which can theoretically be dialed in well with the help of the app
b) REL T/5x, which is supposed to be fast and very 'musical'
Opinions, please?
Thanks
Panos
System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII
System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.
System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0
Location: Greece
Posts: 249
I'm Panos.
System1: Lenco L75 with custom plinth, SLAT, sph bearing, SG4 external power supply + Alfred Bokrand AB-309 tonearm + Denon DL103R (aluminum body) + Well Tempered 12" tonearm clone + Denon DL103R (wooden body), ASR Mini Basis Exclusive HV, Marantz CD6005, LAB12 DAC1 SE+, Hattor BIG passive + active pre, Lab12 Suono power amp, Falcon LS3/5a Gold Badge, LAB12 Gordian, Belden 8428, Black Cat Red Level Triode, LAB12 Knack MkII
System 2: Roksan Xerxes original (HiFi Inspire plinth) with Maxon ReMax motor + Audiomods Series6 + Ortofon Cadenza Black microridge retipped, ASR Mini Basis Exclusive, Marantz CD6003, Croft Micro25R + Series7R monoblocks (110W/ea), Harbeth SHL5 Plus 40th Anniv.
System 3: Marantz CD6003, Croft SuperMicroII ('R' spec by Croft, Tesla E83CC in phono)+ Series7, Snell Type EII (with bypass caps, new internal wiring, WBT nextgen 0703Cu), Mark Grant HDX1, Atlas Hyper 3.0
I have played with subwoofers for years and the one that I use over all the others is an old Yamaha twin 8" tall style (could be placed on its side) which was given to me for nowt. It only has an in-phase or out of phase switch which is a god send. I have been driven mad with some I have that have too many things to fiddle with and I end up with something the same as the Yamaha (so my ears tell me)
Buy Bose...And get your parking validated!.
https://youtu.be/ZCBe7-6rw4M
No Highs...No Lows....It Must Be Bose!
Location: limerick
Posts: 223
I'm charles.
Hi Panos, I have not heard the SVS Micro but going by the performance of the SVS SB1000 I would call it a safe bet. As I mentioned I own both SVS and REL subs but the SVS has many parameters to adjust to seamlessly blend in. In addition to variable phase there is also low pass filter, polarity, parametric EQ, room gain compensation, presets and system settings. They are also less pricey.
Regarding your concern over 'speed' of the sub. A driver will obey the signal, it can not do anything else. Where people find a sub to be 'slow' is a function of the room's acoustics. I'm sure you have seen plots of speakers in various rooms. Those big peaks you see are the problem! They could be 15dB above the rest so when the sound decays to inaudibility the peak is still very much in evidence adding its noise to the party and this ponderous mess is understandably perceived as s-l-o-w.
Room acoustics are important. If you can manage two subs and spend the time positioning and adjusting I think you will hear your speakers like never before. Perhaps consider buying a microphone and familiarising yourself with the free download REW. It will help you position your main speakers and subs and is fun and rewarding when you see the peaks being tamed and the nulls filled in. Adding some absorption will also show up on the plot and it's interesting to watch and hear the effect.
Location: London/Durham
Posts: 6,899
I'm Lawrence.