Location: Medmenham, Bucks.
Posts: 399
I'm MYLES.
What are you guys opinions of using washers with cartridge bolts, and do you bolt yours with (ahem) your nuts on top or underneath?
Location: Far Away
Posts: 1,373
I'm Gone.
Never use washers as they can allow "play" in the headshell assembly and while you are at it, remove the rubber washer between the headshell and the arm. Nuts on top or underneath is largely a matter of asthetics on a removable headshell. On fixed headshell arms that are mounted on a deck, it can be easier with some carts to have a cap headed bolt, push it through the monting lug on the cart on an allen key, then through thevwhole on the arm and screw the nut from the top.
Cap headed bolts can give firmer grip and unlike flat bladed screws, you are less likely to slip and break a stylus/cantilever. Also worth noting, stainless steel can have differnt levevls of magnetic coercivity and retentivity depending on the grade of steel, magnetic interaction between cart and headshell is not a good idea and can effect sound quality. As they say "You pays your money, you takes your choice".
Good luck with the dentist......
Hi Jon,
I've just experimented with that very matter at length, having just bought a new detachable headshell for my Ortofon arm and Denon DL-103 cartridge, so was made to revisit things again, and have finally concluded the following:
1) Hex bolts offer a much more 'positive' and secure fitting than screws, for the very reasons Paul has mentioned - *but* they must be made from non-magnetic stainless steel, for best results (rigidity and the fact that they're non-ferrous).
2) As a result, the latter 'sound' better than screws, for reasons given.
3) My preference (visually), with headshells, and also practically too, is to fix nuts onto the top of bolts, as it's much easier to tighten them from the top, in order to obtain a good secure fixing, than at the other end, where they're harder to get at.
4) Try and obtain a small spanner [such as that shown in the pack below], which will allow you to tighten the nuts used, thus securely affixing the cartridge to the headshell (by firmly clamping it to it), subsequently ensuring an optimal mechanical connection.
That final, gentle, 'nipping up' of the nuts at the end, with a spanner, after having screwed the bolts in fully with an Allen key, makes all the difference!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Hi Paul,
Got your cartridge mounting kit today (many thanks), and it's great!
For some bizarre reason my cartridge sounds better with your bolts fitted, rather than those supplied by SRM-Tech, including the spanner (above). Therefore, folks, I'd recommend Paul's kit, here :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1917037838...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Paul, to make it perfect, you may wish to consider including one of those little spanners with your kits? It's a rather useful little tool!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: Far Away
Posts: 1,373
I'm Gone.
Hi Marco,
Glad the kit arrived and it works for you, I think the sound thing is down to the grade of stainless steel, it took me a while to find "The Right One"I'm trying to source the correct size and quality of spanner as I don't want to increase the price of the kit too much, I'll keep people posted.