Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,326
I'm Richard.
Hi Nick,
Ok, sure. I accept all that. None of it, though, automatically makes SMDs bad. The only reason I've highlighted Goldpoint's position on the matter (and what the above article outlined) is because it reflects my experience, and most importantly, it's what my ears tell me.
The DACT 'series'-type stepped attenuator in the Croft, which also uses SMD resistors, sounds superb, and to my ears is better than any 'conventional' attenuator, for example the Glasshouse Takman I had before it. Furthermore, in all the years I've used the DACT, on the Croft, I've never been tempted to upgrade it with different resistors, which I also think tells its own story...
Therefore that fact, and given that the Goldpoint, fitted with similar SMD resistors (which I'm using now solely as shunts), sounds equally superb, proves to me that there's either something in what they say, or that SMD resistors aren't as bad as some folk think!
Yes, but it is an undeniable advantage of series-type attenuators. SMD resistors also have shorter signal paths than the conventional variety. Both factors are likely to be partly responsible for the excellent results I'm getting.When it suits them they use the same but reversed argument when they make a thing of the advantage of only having the one switch contact in the signal.
Well, the biggest improvement would've been gained by introducing the shunt, and in the process removing all those resistors from the signal path, regardless of what type of resistors they were!But you could and did, thats exactly what you heard when you replaced the 30 or so surface mount resistors with a single shunt, the improvement you have heard (even with a cheap SINGLE metal film resistor) show that the SMD ones are not transparent as they claim.
In that respect, I've no idea why Goldpoint don't design their series-type passive devices that way originally (as 'shunt-types', like how Duncan has done it, and in a way getting the best of both worlds), as for me, it's a no-brainer. I know that Goldpoint prefer the 'all-series' approach to passives, but it isn't the best way of doing things.
Shunt isn't always best either, especially in an active preamp, as some lower-gain devices don't like the subsequent reduction in gain, caused by reducing voltage (such as the Croft), and can sound soft and 'limp' as a result. Returning to the SMD resistors in the Goldpoint (now being uses as shunts), they may indeed not sound as good as Z-foils would in there, but my point is that they're definitely transparent enough not to act as a significant bottleneck!
Indeed. The plan eventually will be to replace the SMD shunts with Z-Foils. I'm pretty certain that will be better, but like I said, given the superb sound I'm enjoying at the moment, I'm in no real rush to go thereNow, again, the shunt resistor(s) may have less effect on the sound than the series one, but I think its certain that it will have some. as you say, you may try this later so it will be interesting what you find.
Indeed, but I still like retaining the flexibility of more steps, in order if necessary, to accommodate the replay of very low-level recordings, such as can be the case sometimes with classical music. The extra steps are unlikely to be used, but I'd still rather they were there if I need them.If you are only using position 3-10 on the switch, if you decide to try single resistors, you may as well just use a 24 way switch and spread the values from to your current 10 over those points. You could use a 12 way switch, but I suspect psychologically you prefer the control to be in the lower half of its travel under normal use.
So what's their mistake?BTW (1), I am almost certain no engineer from Goldpoint has read thair web site, they would have noticed this mistake "The surface mounted resistors used on the Goldpoint V47s are 0.5% Nichrome THIN film with a thermal noise specification (TCR) of 25 PPM, same as on our V24s,"
In order to understand your point I would need to know what an inductive design is, and how it differs from what I have....?BTW (2), "let's not lose sight of the fact that the best resistor is NO resistor", hence the point of inductive designs.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Goldpoint's website quote should read: "... 0.5% Nichrome THIN film with a temperature coefficient of resistance (TCR) of 25ppm (/degC), same as on our V24s".
Barry
Just noticed this post, sorry Richard:
Yes, because I thought that weight was meant to be there. We got away with it more in Duncan's system, because he uses small (modern) stand-mount Tannoys. In my system, with much bigger and more revealing speakers, it was a different matter. In the final analysis, it appears that some of that weight was 'bloat', which isn't an effect I need or want. However, it did ameliorate a little with burn-in.
Therefore, for those interested in trying the AN Tants, it's something to bear in mind. Tonally, I don't think that they're entirely neutral, and veer towards the warm side of the equation, although they do sound very musical. The Z-Foils in no way lack weight: it's there when it's meant to be. They just don't superimpose it onto every recording, in the way that the AN Tants tended to, and they sound equally as musical, if not more so.
There is really no downside to the Z-Foils that I can detect. It's also entirely possible that, by originally leaving the legs so long for testing purposes, we didn't hear them properly first time round...
I'd say that in a bright and/or lightweight sounding system, the Z-foils may be too brutally honest (as they act as a veritable 'open window'), and so will reveal any system shortcomings. Therefore, the more forgiving, 'big-boned' presentation of the AN Tants may prove a better solution. At the end of the day, there is no 'one size fits all'. It's all about tuning the response of the components in your system, in order to create the most musically satisfying sound to your ears!
For sure, mood makes a difference to how we perceive the way equipment sounds. Fortunately, I'm in a good mood most days [nothing for me to be unhappy about], so I'm probably afflicted by that phenomenon a little less than others [especially some po-faced old malcontents elsewhere]!I wonder if the time or mood make a difference to our choices too. In my DAC I wanted a clean sound, but now some extra "authority" might be welcomed.
BTW, the Mills MRA5 wirewounds are available in 20k and 22k. Go on, you know you want to!![]()
I looked at the Mills resistors, and indeed considered them, but I'm pretty sure that they wouldn't be in the same league as the Z-foils. These babies really do deserve their excellent reputation!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
In that respect, here's an excellent summary of the Charcroft Z-Foils (copied from the earlier article I linked to), which mirrors my own experience to date with them:
Quite!Originally Posted by Audio Signal Attenuators
His opinion of the Shinkohs, in comparison, also reflects my own experience.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,326
I'm Richard.
I just made the effort to check, and it seems the Charcroft Z-foils are the same as the Texas. But Texas Components will make any value to any tolerance ( I go for 0.1%!), so I go direct to them.
ABD.
Yeah, sure. I'd still just rather get them from HFC. Nick offers superb service, and if I need anything quickly, I can get it the next day!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,326
I'm Richard.
Fair enough.
ABD.
Every change you make is always going to be system dependent,
For eg, You may find that changing one interconnect now will give a diffrent result than before, this unfortunetly is the nature of the beast, and in some respects can detract folk from the reason they got into HI Fi in the first place, ie; the music!
Our ears, and mood changes from day to day, which also has a big affect on how we percieve music, and sound, so, what may sound right one day, well,,, you get my gist, that is why when you get a system to a certain standard of quality, the final % of tuning will always be subjective, personal choice, and not necessarily fact!![]()
"Today scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality"
Nikola Tesla
Its now a conspiracy theory to believe that the Immune system is capable of doing the job it was designed to do.
A fish is only as healthy as the water its swimming in ! [Dr Robert Young]
www.tubedistinctions.co.uk
Matthew 5:10
Very true post #409.
Valve rolling persistently disturbs me. I'll be running, say, VT52, for a few days, then swap over to 6A3 and wonder why the hell I was ever listening to VT52. Then I'll swap back and think the reverse a few days later. The traits of the valves always appears to remain the same. What I prefer to listen to varies.
No soldering required, there, however.
EDIT: Which of course is not to belittle a little resistor rolling.