Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
“Music has always been a matter of energy to me, a question of fuel. Sentimental people call it inspiration, but what they really mean is fuel. I have always needed fuel. I am a serious consumer. On some nights I still believe that a car with the gas needle on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio”
Hunter S Thompson
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,326
I'm Richard.
Indeed, and I've never played around with resistors before, even in the Croft - only caps. Therefore, I'm really looking forward to hearing the results obtained, with the various types of resistors selected, in such a critical position on a passive preamp.
If it works well, then I may consider fitting the resistors deemed as sounding best in the phono stage of the Croft and/or in the Copper amp. That would be fun!
Btw, do you understand what I'm getting at here, and if you do, could you try and explain it to Macca:
Cheers!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Yep I get what you're driving at, I did the same to get a travel on the volume pot I liked. It may be that you weren't getting the sound you wanted because there were more resistors in the signal path(before the shunt mod)?
For me it was about getting the gain structure in my own system right as you say.
“Music has always been a matter of energy to me, a question of fuel. Sentimental people call it inspiration, but what they really mean is fuel. I have always needed fuel. I am a serious consumer. On some nights I still believe that a car with the gas needle on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio”
Hunter S Thompson
Good - I'm glad that I'm making sense to someone!
Yes, there were two things originally that were sub-optimal with the Goldpoint (even though as standard it was far from shabby, and I could hear its potential), and that was the amount of resistors that were in-line with the music signal at low to medium volumes, thus degrading the sound, and that the 'loudness input level', controlled by the 'K' value of the resistors used, was too high, and so the resulting sound was somewhat 'limp and weedy'.
Therefore, both shunting the switch and lowering the resistor values has allowed the full potential of the device to be released - and it's not a subtle improvement either!
Like you say, it's about getting a "travel on the volume pot you like", but more importantly for me, supplying a 'juicy' enough signal to the power amp, to enable the overall sound produced by the system to have enough 'drive and balls'
Now that that those issues have been resolved (and perhaps it's one of the reasons why some folk find passives lacking in 'cojones'), it's all about maxing out SQ, by fitting the best sounding resistors. That done, I *suspect* the Goldpoint will oust the Croft for line-level duties, and that the latter will be employed for use as a phono stage only.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,326
I'm Richard.
I buy my Z-foils direct from Texas http://www.texascomponents.com/store...?idProduct=461 Up to 100k in this version, or 250k in t'other. Just watch the max voltage! And I get 0.1% tolerance; that should be close enough. But you will have to decide for yourself if they sound "best".
ABD.
Location: Halifax, UK
Posts: 1,394
I'm Nick.
A couple of things come to mind. Though in theory the passive should do nothing to the sound, so at one third the sound should be the same as at two thirds but just quieter. Practice often doesn’t match theory, mainly because the theory is wrong.
Firstly, the input impedance seen by the source and the output impedance into the load will be different in the one and two thirds position, that will alter how everything works together, and also will alter how the cables interact with the components.
Secondly, at two thirds, even though the control has been converted into a shunt, I assume the attenuator is still a bunch of resistors in series, so the number of resistors that the signal sees will be different in both cases. Resistors have a sound. If there are 47 steps on the attenuator, at one third there will be 15 in series to ground, at two thirds that will be 30 resistors. I am willing to bet that 30 resistors in series will have more of a sound than 15 of them.
A pure shunt control avoids the last problem (though not the first) by only having the single resistor to ground at each position.
Nick.
That's what I have in place now, Nick, as Duncan has wired the dual-mono switches that way
Agreed about cables, which is why I use nothing longer than 0.5m interconnects, with the Goldpoint - and high quality, low-capacitance (minimum loss, low attenuation) ones at that.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: Halifax, UK
Posts: 1,394
I'm Nick.