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Thread: The Mike New Bearing Base Plate

  1. #121
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 111,027
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by worrasf View Post
    Having listened to the deck a few hours this morning with the "bonded bearing" I am astounded just how much better all music genres are sounding now. It's not just the bass that benefits. There is a tangible improvement in grip and timing across all frequencies resulting in a more lifelike and natural presentation - these improvements are not subtle IMO.
    Eventually, sometimes later rather than sooner, the message hits home...

    I would hesitate to say ( but I will) that the improvement is so great due to the greater rigidity and stability of the bearing that anyone considering a MN bearing should give serious consideration to getting a base plate at the same time and have done with it.
    Precisely my thoughts, Steve. Why own a superbly engineered bearing, but only be able to realise 80% of its sonic capability?

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  2. #122
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,795
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by worrasf View Post
    Outstanding!
    Glad I'm not just guilty of "emperors new clothes" syndrome.
    Did you use liquid resin like I did or epoxy?
    Epoxy, and a mini spirit level to make sure the bearing sat true.

    Quote Originally Posted by CageyH View Post
    Would wax not do the same thing, with the added advantage of being able to be removed?
    Wouldn't wax eventually dry out?
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE / MONO
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker





  3. #123
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

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    I got some time on Saturday and set to installing the MN base plate bearing in time for Christmas. My deck has been out of action since earlier in the year so I'm desperate to get it up and running again. All was good initially, psb removed etc. The problem I've encountered is at the stage in Mikes instructions, where you put the bearing inside the base plate hole, put the pcb over and on top and then secure these together with the three long slim black Allen headed screws / bolts supplied. I spent literally hours trying to get all three screws to locate into the baseplate. I'd maybe get two in but the third would be nigh on impossible to locate. I think I just about managed it once but no matter how delicately and slowly I turned the screws, one after the other it would cause the base plate to lift away from the flat shoulders of the bearing. Basically the plate would just not stay flat and flush against the flat of the bearing shoulders. As I say this was the one time I could get all three screws to locate / bite. After that I just could not get the third screw to locate / bite no matter how much I tried. I gave up in the end with very sore fingers after all the screw turning and allen key rotating - Extremely frustrating.

    I am most certainly not inept at this sort of thing having fitted my MN bearing, MN ETP platter and removed the stock psu and fitted my external psu. I can only conclude that maybe the holes in the base plate are not perfectly accurate. They may seem to be by eye. As a result, I think that the most minute discrepancy is causing there to be maybe a need for the minutest degree of flex in the base plate I have which of course being very solid brass there wont be.
    I emailed Mike last night and still await his expert view. In the meantime, Has anyone else encountered anything like this with their baseplate / install ??
    Last edited by RobbieGong; 21-12-2014 at 20:49.

  4. #124
    Mike_New Guest

    Default

    Hi Robert,
    Firstly I did not know that DB was making the Base Plates from Brass. My specification was to use Mild Steel plate as this privides a much stronger thread for the three steel bolts. Do not force the bolts otherwise you will strip the threads, although it would seem that the threaded holes are not exactly positioned, either as to the angular position (120deg) or the diametric distance.
    You will have to get DB to send you a replacement.

  5. #125
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

    Default

    Right ! I've just applied the epoxy

  6. #126
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,800
    I'm Stephen.

    Default New top plate

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrei View Post
    Go on, show us your new top plate and I'll give you a wine gum.
    I claim my wine gum Andrei

    Just gotten around to taking a photo of the top plate sans slider and disc adapter cut outs.

    I'm very pleased with the looks.

    Steve
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Always a little further

  7. #127
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 43,616
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    That does look very classy, Stephen.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > Troels Gravesen Faital 3WC-15.

  8. #128
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,800
    I'm Stephen.

    Default

    Thanks
    Always a little further

  9. #129
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 111,027
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    That looks superb, Stephen! Did you do the work yourself, and if so, would you consider doing it for others (for an appropriate fee)? I’d quite fancy something like that myself

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  10. #130
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,800
    I'm Stephen.

    Default

    Thanks Marco. All I did was remove pitch assembly etc. I bought the top plate off a guy on eBay - he did it as a "special" but still only charged £45 inc p&p which I think is darn good. I sourced the Technics logo plate from an eBay seller in Australia.
    Always a little further

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