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Thread: DIY Platter

  1. #41
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Athens

    Posts: 269
    I'm Dimitris.

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    By the way, I could not find any sheets of Dynamat locally... But I managed to get some scraps for free. Certainly not enough to cover the platter, but it was enough to cover the lower part of the bearing.. VERY nice improvement in stage spacial sounds. I think I will like this material

  2. #42
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: Napier, New Zealand

    Posts: 1,518
    I'm Andrei.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
    Those who have added mass have not reported any problems. And the general consensus (well, of the handful of people who have done it...) on the epoxy-filled platter is overwhelmingly positive.
    Which epoxy did you have in mind? I still have three spare platters (somebody on ebay was selling six!) and it would be interesting to experiment.
    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Sources:[/B] [B]1[/B][/COLOR] PC & Wyred4Sound DAC-2 DSDse   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]2[/B][/COLOR] Oppo BDP105   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]3[/B][/COLOR] Technics SL·1210 MK5 (Jelco 750D · Benz Wood).    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speaker Cable[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=black]Nordost Frey.[/COLOR]    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Interconnects [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Oyaide[/COLOR][COLOR=black] & [/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Geisha [/COLOR][COLOR=black]Silver.
    [/COLOR][B][COLOR=#a52a2a]Phono Stage [/COLOR][/B][COLOR=black]Fosgate Signature V2. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Preamp [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Ayon Eris[/COLOR][COLOR=black]. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Power Amp[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=Black]ATC P1. [/COLOR]  ​ [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speakers[/B][/COLOR] Triangle Magellan Cello.     [COLOR=#A9A9A9]Oh Sting, where is thy death?[/COLOR]

  3. #43
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Denver, Colorado

    Posts: 458
    I'm Jim.

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    A specific epoxy was suggested to my be Sean Casey of Zu Audio. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/ It's marine grade, and doesn't dry completely solid like a generic 5-minute epoxy, but stays just a teeny bit flexible. Also a much longer working time, giving it a chance to flow level in the platter.

    I'm looking forward to modifying the platter his way, it's in my queue of projects to do, and will get around to it one of these days.
    SP-10Mk2a, Graham 2.2 tonearm. SL-1200, Graham 2.2 tonearm, AT-150mlx, Benz-Scheu Glider. Jim & Ken Super DC PSU, Oil well bearing, Acromat, Isonoes, strobe lamp switched. Pass Labs Pearl 2. Aleph J amplifier. F6 Amplifier. Nelson Pass Burning Amplifier BA-3. Pass BA-PP linestage, miniDSP 4x10, Linkwitz Labs LXmini speakers, Sony SS-M7 speakers.

    DIY In progress - Syclotron Red Light district valve amp, ZenMod "Iron pre" autoformer jfet preamp, SYclotron 'His Master's Noise' valve phonostage. And about 2-3 other projects in various states at any time.

  4. #44
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: Napier, New Zealand

    Posts: 1,518
    I'm Andrei.

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    Hmm, thanks for that. What the web-site does not say is anything about vibration damping. Still, it is probably worth a go. I imagine if you can find find two right-sized corks you can stop up the finger holes while pouring.
    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Sources:[/B] [B]1[/B][/COLOR] PC & Wyred4Sound DAC-2 DSDse   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]2[/B][/COLOR] Oppo BDP105   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]3[/B][/COLOR] Technics SL·1210 MK5 (Jelco 750D · Benz Wood).    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speaker Cable[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=black]Nordost Frey.[/COLOR]    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Interconnects [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Oyaide[/COLOR][COLOR=black] & [/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Geisha [/COLOR][COLOR=black]Silver.
    [/COLOR][B][COLOR=#a52a2a]Phono Stage [/COLOR][/B][COLOR=black]Fosgate Signature V2. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Preamp [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Ayon Eris[/COLOR][COLOR=black]. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Power Amp[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=Black]ATC P1. [/COLOR]  ​ [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speakers[/B][/COLOR] Triangle Magellan Cello.     [COLOR=#A9A9A9]Oh Sting, where is thy death?[/COLOR]

  5. #45
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Denver, Colorado

    Posts: 458
    I'm Jim.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrei View Post
    I imagine if you can find find two right-sized corks you can stop up the finger holes while pouring.

    ...at which time you will have two corks firmly bonded into the holes.

    FWIW, I haven't figured out a solution either, other than not having fingerholes once it's poured.
    SP-10Mk2a, Graham 2.2 tonearm. SL-1200, Graham 2.2 tonearm, AT-150mlx, Benz-Scheu Glider. Jim & Ken Super DC PSU, Oil well bearing, Acromat, Isonoes, strobe lamp switched. Pass Labs Pearl 2. Aleph J amplifier. F6 Amplifier. Nelson Pass Burning Amplifier BA-3. Pass BA-PP linestage, miniDSP 4x10, Linkwitz Labs LXmini speakers, Sony SS-M7 speakers.

    DIY In progress - Syclotron Red Light district valve amp, ZenMod "Iron pre" autoformer jfet preamp, SYclotron 'His Master's Noise' valve phonostage. And about 2-3 other projects in various states at any time.

  6. #46
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: Napier, New Zealand

    Posts: 1,518
    I'm Andrei.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
    ...at which time you will have two corks firmly bonded into the holes.

    FWIW, I haven't figured out a solution either, other than not having fingerholes once it's poured.
    So I take it you have not had the experience of opening a bottle of wine without a corkscrew ;-> Necessity is the mother of invention!
    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Sources:[/B] [B]1[/B][/COLOR] PC & Wyred4Sound DAC-2 DSDse   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]2[/B][/COLOR] Oppo BDP105   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]3[/B][/COLOR] Technics SL·1210 MK5 (Jelco 750D · Benz Wood).    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speaker Cable[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=black]Nordost Frey.[/COLOR]    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Interconnects [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Oyaide[/COLOR][COLOR=black] & [/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Geisha [/COLOR][COLOR=black]Silver.
    [/COLOR][B][COLOR=#a52a2a]Phono Stage [/COLOR][/B][COLOR=black]Fosgate Signature V2. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Preamp [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Ayon Eris[/COLOR][COLOR=black]. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Power Amp[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=Black]ATC P1. [/COLOR]  ​ [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speakers[/B][/COLOR] Triangle Magellan Cello.     [COLOR=#A9A9A9]Oh Sting, where is thy death?[/COLOR]

  7. #47
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Denver, Colorado

    Posts: 458
    I'm Jim.

    Default

    Yes, I agree, it could be drilled out or something, but in a perfect world the stoppers are coated with some substance that epoxy doesn't bond to.

    No corkscrew? Push the cork in.
    SP-10Mk2a, Graham 2.2 tonearm. SL-1200, Graham 2.2 tonearm, AT-150mlx, Benz-Scheu Glider. Jim & Ken Super DC PSU, Oil well bearing, Acromat, Isonoes, strobe lamp switched. Pass Labs Pearl 2. Aleph J amplifier. F6 Amplifier. Nelson Pass Burning Amplifier BA-3. Pass BA-PP linestage, miniDSP 4x10, Linkwitz Labs LXmini speakers, Sony SS-M7 speakers.

    DIY In progress - Syclotron Red Light district valve amp, ZenMod "Iron pre" autoformer jfet preamp, SYclotron 'His Master's Noise' valve phonostage. And about 2-3 other projects in various states at any time.

  8. #48
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Athens

    Posts: 269
    I'm Dimitris.

    Default

    How about making a tube out of teflon. Most glues do not bond with it

  9. #49
    Join Date: Dec 2013

    Location: Finland

    Posts: 30
    I'm Samu.

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    How about using a dampening mass that is used in vehicles to dampen the vibration of the doors and other platings etc, for example http://vibratec.se/products/special-...s/noisekiller/

    I have really good experience of this kind of solution. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/chp-...ste-1kg-single

    Lautasella vaimennusmassa.jpg

    The needed thickness is of course much more than the recommended but you could always do it in thin (3mm) layers to get the required amount to fill the platter.

  10. #50
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Athens

    Posts: 269
    I'm Dimitris.

    Default

    I tried modifying a test platter with dynamat. Properly removing the rubber is a REAL PITA. the main mass can be rather easily removed, but cleaning the residue is a different story...
    At first I tried some steel sponge and it did not work very well... I then tried using 100 grit sand paper which made things quite better and faster. But still it was taking too much time and effort.
    And then I remembered a tool I purchased a while back and never used. An oscillating multi-tool.

    product_MX25E.jpg

    Using the straight edge attachment to scrape the residue works very nicely

    For those who do not how this thing works, it has a head that moves left-right, to which you can attach various tools like cutters, scrapers, sanders etc.
    It is exactly what is needed for the job...

    Mine is from Parkside and costs around 25 euros from Lidl (for those in Europe)

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