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Thread: The Mike New Technics Bearing

  1. #881
    Join Date: Nov 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    Marco, I don't know why you don't just dump the old plinth altogether as I would expect that to give even greater benefit. Who is the member (awkward by design?) who did the veneered concrete plinth - he could probably make you one.
    Is was Qwin.
    Chris



    Common sense isn't anymore!

  2. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris@panteg View Post
    It really does make more sense to just trade up to a nicely fettled SP10 or something else as good.
    What price are we talking Chris, and from whom?
    Chris



    Common sense isn't anymore!

  3. #883
    Join Date: Apr 2011

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    Thanks Marco

    That is a bit substantial
    TAD CD / DAC / Pre, Technics 1210, MCRU PSU, Mike New Bearing & Platter, Stillpoints LP1 weight, Speedy Steve Ebony armboard, Fidelity Research FR64FX arm, Ortofon SPU. Aurorasound VIDA Phono Pre Amp, TAD Power Amp, TAD E1 speakers. Coherent RTZ 3 Grounding box, Coherent grounding cables, Creaktiv racks. Coherent Mains Cables. SR Blue Fuse. Interconnects : Coherent and Yannis 223.5 Connect Litz. Coherent speaker cable. Audio Magic Transcendence Conditioner. Coherent mains socket. Mains Filters : , PS Audio Harvesters, Russ Andrews Purifiers, Tacima, Vertex. Black Ravioli and RDC supports. Electric Beach S1NX platforms for TAD CD and Technics. Ferrite chokes everywhere except the above. Ears, brain

    Mike

  4. #884
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by chris@panteg View Post
    It really does make more sense to just trade up to a nicely fettled SP10 or something else as good.
    We've been here before, Chris. I guess it depends on what you mean by "nicely fettled", as every single stock SP10 (fitted to a high-quality plinth and partnered with a top-notch arm and cartridge) I've compared my modified Techy against has either sounded worse or no better than it.

    Furthermore, as I've said before many times, I'm not big on using a direct-drive T/T containing 40-year old electronics.

    More responses later, folks - it's lunch time!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  5. #885
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    SP10 - eBay price depending on age and quality
    Account Deleted

  6. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    SP10 - eBay price depending on age and quality
    So not exactly a ready supply then ...
    The SL1210 and parts can still be easily obtained from eBay.
    Chris



    Common sense isn't anymore!

  7. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by CageyH View Post
    Marco,

    I am just surprised that using such a light platter warrants use of a base plate. I can understand it for the heavyweight platters. When I look at the bearing mount, I don't think that it will move under the forces of a 1.4 kg platter revolving around it so for me, it's interesting to know that it makes a big difference, and not a subtle one. Having seen someone do a 360 hand-spin on a standard bearing without breaking the deck, I would hardly call it a weak point. The only issue for me is the increase of 6mm of the platter surface. That's a lot of VTA to take up, which I don't think the stock Technics base will account for.
    Hi Kevin,

    You're focussing on the wrong thing, mate. The efficacy of the BBP has got nothing to do with the weight of the platter; it's about addressing (and fundamentally solving) the ineffectiveness of the bearing/chassis interface, as exists as standard on an SL-1200/1210.

    These are the most telling pictures of the BBP (and MN bearing) in situ, versus what exists with the stock arrangement:





    Note, from the picture on the left, how effectively the bearing is being supported on the base plate, and how the whole assembly is securely coupled to the chassis.

    Quite simply, without the BBP, that just doesn't happen, as the base of the bearing is left merely 'floating' on top of three threaded 'shafts' (as seen on the picture on the right). It does not/cannot couple flush to the chassis - hardly a recipe for ensuring ultimate rigidity!

    Now ultimate rigidity matters, not because of the weight of the platter, but in order to ensure that the bearing itself functions optimally and reduces noise transferred onto the spindle, which is thus picked up by the stylus when a record is playing..... Essentially, it's all about coupling the bearing as rigidly as possible to the chassis - and that job is achieved much more effectively with the BBP.

    Are you getting it now, daftee?

    Marco.

    P.S In terms of VTA adjustment, you're correct. However, with a 'low-riding' bespoke-made Speedy Steve armboard fitted, there is ample adjustment available in order to ensure that VTA is spot on (even when using a Resomat, which raises records themselves up higher). That certainly won't be the case, however, with most armboards.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  8. #888
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 7,182
    I'm Kevin.

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    Marco,

    I understand the whole concept of rigidity, and I understand that the BBP will help this, but you need to ensure that it is bonded squarely to the chassis. I am unsure of just how much more rigid you need the bearing. It's nicely engineered, and when supported at three points, it does not move a great deal when in normal use. if there was a bit of play evident without the BBP fitted, then sure, I understand why you would fit one. My bearing hardly moves (not evident to the human eye or to the touch), even when I apply a side load on the spindle. Sure, I could measure this with a DTI to see what extent it moves, but I think that you are worrying over nothing. I'm glad that you have perceived an improvement, but I think that a lower profile BBP should be possible without the need to raise the platter by 6mm if all you are after is a mounting flange.

    I really don't see how the chassis/bearing interface flexes enough under normal use to warrant a bonded on structural upgrade - the key words being normal use. There are very minor forces acting on the bearing when playing vinyl. These forces are comfortably within the operating limits of the materials and fasteners used.

    As for the armboard, I would need to talk to Speedy Steve about a version standard Technics arm, and then have the fun of stripping everything down to fit the board, and reassembling it, all for what is probably a subtle upgrade?
    I'll chew it over for a while longer.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  9. #889
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 7,182
    I'm Kevin.

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    Has it been fitted with Hylomar Blue?
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  10. #890
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,466
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    Marco, I don't know why you don't just dump the old plinth altogether as I would expect that to give even greater benefit. Who is the member (awkward by design?) who did the veneered concrete plinth - he could probably make you one.
    I admire what Qwin has done, and I'm sure it sounds great. However, for me, it's a 'bridge too far', particularly when I like the design principles (and sonic signature) of the stock plinth.

    All I'm planning to do now is have the pitch control (and associated buttons) removed from the top-plate, and replace the top-plate itself with a black carbon-fibre one (like Floyddroid's), in order for the T/T to look 'cleaner', aesthetically.

    After that it'll be FINITO! Then I'll be indulging my vintage idler T/T fetish, with the purchase of an Audio Grail, fully restored, grey hammerite Garrard 301 and/or fully Swissonor-modified Thorens TD124

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

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