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Thread: Mod your Beresford 7520

  1. #971
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sunderland

    Posts: 94

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmangler View Post
    Just cut one leg and lift the cap away without removing it. If you want to put the cap back in circuit then a blob of solder on the cut should suffice.

    Not ideal, but a damned sight easier than removing the circuit board and desoldering the joint, replacing the cap etc.

    Chris
    Unfortunately just missing out a couple of steps for some of us:
    1) Buy a soldering iron & solder
    2) Work out how to use it
    3) Practice before risking it on the DAC

    Dave & Jerry, I eagerly await your reports back if you do the snip - before doing something that's so difficult to undo I need as much input as possible!

  2. #972
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Aughton, Ormskirk

    Posts: 2,855
    I'm Jerry.

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    Sorry Spod,
    You will have to wait until the week-end for my report as I have driven 280 miles today and have just sat down to start work. Another 300 miles tomorrow.
    Jerry
    Hifi: IPL transmission line floorstanding speakers, Squeezebox Touch, Denafrips Ares 11 DAC, DCB1 Pre-amplifier, Croft Series 7 power amp.
    Custom Hifi cables HA10SE headphone amplifier and Hifiman HE-400 headphones.
    AV system: LG 55B7, Denon AVR -x2300w receiver, Quad 12L (front) 11c Centre and 11L rear . Velodyne DD15 subwoofer.

  3. #973
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

    Posts: 1,307
    I'm Dave.

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    I called into a hardware store on the way home and bought some mini cutters. I then set about the MLC5/6 mod and swapped my 4032 for a LME49720HA. This opamp is the new version of the LM4562HA. It has the same specs, just a new name.

    I listened to a couple of tracks before and after and there's definitely a difference in characteristics. I now have a slightly bigger and more 3D soundstage. The bass has also got more pronounced and punchy. The latter is actually a bit of a down side for me as I was already having issues with boomy bass. I'm struggling to hear any other differences but I think that's because the bass is muddling everything else.

    I already have plans to tame the bass including room treatment and eq, so I think that will improve the situation.

    I think I'll leave the 49720HA in place for now as I can't be arsed to solder the caps back in again and I want to see if the sound improves after the changes have been in place for a few days.

    So my results weren't quite as positive as some other peoples but still good.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  4. #974
    Join Date: Feb 2009

    Location: Nailsworth Glos

    Posts: 208

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    Hi Stan

    I have 2 tirna 4032's going spare if you would like them, shall I just post to you.

    Nick
    Nick

    UK - Technics SP10, EPA 500, AT33SA - Roonserver on i5 NUC running Windows 10 Pro - Devialet 1000 PRO CI - Magico S5 - Finite Elemente Wall Shelf

    Spain - Roonserver on i7 NUC running Windows 10 Pro - Devialet D250 Pro CI - Ergo IX

  5. #975
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

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    The circuitry change needs time to burn in, so a few hours won't tell you much.
    Also note that if you look at the waveform measurements that Leo published earlier today the frequency response on the DAC with the LM4562 is a straight line from 10Hz to 20KHz. The extra bass you hear is your system finally coming to life. Go to the next room in your house to listen to a good track and you'll hear details through the walls that you very likely never heard before from that location.

    Stan

  6. #976
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

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    Quote Originally Posted by NickB View Post
    Hi Stan

    I have 2 tirna 4032's going spare if you would like them, shall I just post to you.

    Nick
    Hi Nick, that would be great. I'll remember that when the Caiman PSU shows up.

    Stan

  7. #977
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,025
    I'm Confused.

    Unhappy 4032 Op-Amp.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gazjam View Post
    I've one of the Tirna 4032's lying spare, any use Stan?
    Hi Gary,
    Do please tell me that the above is NOT the one you said you'd send me?
    If it is, if you can tell me where I can buy another one from, I'm quite willing to defer to Stan.
    Cheers,
    Dave.
    DaveK.

    My System:
    Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
    Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
    Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
    Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
    Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.

  8. #978
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Aughton, Ormskirk

    Posts: 2,855
    I'm Jerry.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy View Post
    I called into a hardware store on the way home and bought some mini cutters. I then set about the MLC5/6 mod and swapped my 4032 for a LME49720HA. This opamp is the new version of the LM4562HA. It has the same specs, just a new name.

    I listened to a couple of tracks before and after and there's definitely a difference in characteristics. I now have a slightly bigger and more 3D soundstage. The bass has also got more pronounced and punchy. The latter is actually a bit of a down side for me as I was already having issues with boomy bass. I'm struggling to hear any other differences but I think that's because the bass is muddling everything else.

    I already have plans to tame the bass including room treatment and eq, so I think that will improve the situation.

    I think I'll leave the 49720HA in place for now as I can't be arsed to solder the caps back in again and I want to see if the sound improves after the changes have been in place for a few days.

    So my results weren't quite as positive as some other peoples but still good.
    Sorry to use you as a guinea pig Dave but it seems you experienced the same problems as me. Before I get busy with the toe nail clippers at the week end could you report if there is any improvement when its bedded in?
    Jerry
    Hifi: IPL transmission line floorstanding speakers, Squeezebox Touch, Denafrips Ares 11 DAC, DCB1 Pre-amplifier, Croft Series 7 power amp.
    Custom Hifi cables HA10SE headphone amplifier and Hifiman HE-400 headphones.
    AV system: LG 55B7, Denon AVR -x2300w receiver, Quad 12L (front) 11c Centre and 11L rear . Velodyne DD15 subwoofer.

  9. #979
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Posts: 44

    Default

    I'd also like to know more results coming from THS4032 to LM4562 w/MLC5/6 mod. Is the 4562 more natural than the 4032? I quite like my 4032 for vinyl rips, it sounds amazing. However, it's too bright a chip for my general recording, and I think the fact that I'm using Grados (a 32ohm phone) is a factor here too.

    EDIT2: OK so LME49720NA vs LM4562NA? Looking at the free samples, want to try some out.
    Last edited by lingling1337; 15-07-2009 at 00:37.

  10. #980
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,025
    I'm Confused.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lingling1337 View Post
    EDIT2: OK so LME49720NA vs LM4562NA? Looking at the free samples, want to try some out.
    Does this mean what I suspect it means, based on previous posts by this 'gentleman'?? SHEEEESH!!!
    DaveK.

    My System:
    Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
    Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
    Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
    Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
    Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.

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