+ Reply to Thread
Page 81 of 123 FirstFirst ... 3171798081828391 ... LastLast
Results 801 to 810 of 1228

Thread: The Mike New Technics Bearing

  1. #801
    Mike_New Guest

    Default

    Folks,
    I haave read with interest all this stuff about the effectiveness of the Bearing Base Plate, and now in recent posts, the Bearing.
    Some of you may rcall that I had a discussion on this forum with a fellow who had a recording stuio and obviously new a little about what he was talking about. I have forgotten his name.
    I put forward the idea that if a SL1200 were fitted with a second arm and a record was produced with blank tracks in between the sound
    then the second arm could be used to detect any backgroung vibrations ie noise generated by the sound track.
    This approach would not be exclusive to detecting quantative bearing or base micro vibrations as there would also be energy conducted along the surface of the record. However it would serve as a comparitive measurement for those who are so aching for measured data to help them hear the music.
    Maybe someone would like to follow up this idea.

  2. #802
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Far Away

    Posts: 1,373
    I'm Gone.

    Default

    Mike,

    That was me you were talking to about the test disc. I haven't forgotten, in fact I have spoken to a couple of cutting engineers about it. Pressure of work and illness have prtevented me from taking it forward. However if there is a call for this product I'm happy to get some made, I think it would have to be an acetate as it would be too low volume to press unlees above about 200 were wanted

    Cheers

  3. #803
    Mike_New Guest

    Default

    Hi Paul,
    Thanks for your quick response. So if folks want to do their own independant evaluation and measurements and are willing to spend a bit of time in the setup of a second arm then you can now go for it!!

  4. #804
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 7,187
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike_New View Post
    Hi Kevin,
    I fully apreciate your observation about having to cut the protruding wires. However I have deliberately designed the Bearing in this way so as to provide the absolute maximum metal where it counts.
    In this way the flange thickness is maximised and ballanced about the vertical length of the bearing shaft in order to provide the utmost stiffness of the assembly. I believe the citations I have received for the Bearing over the years, bears witness to the success of my design aproach.

    I did indeed consider the use of an insulating shim, but the problem here would be that in some models the wires are longer than average.
    The shim would then bend the wires with possible undesireable results.

    Regarding the three lugs on the chassis, these should be removed so that the Base Plate is able to sit flat against the floor of the chassis. In fact it would be ideal if these could be removed when just using my bearing without the BBP, however this may cause problems with the depth of the bearing well as I posted a few days ago.
    It is for this reason that the Bearing Base Plate represents the ultimate solution to obtaining maximum conection with the chassis.
    Mike,

    Good points - well presented. Without knowing the thickness etc. of your bearing, and conducting FMEA, it would be difficult to see if it would make a difference. I am happy with my purchase anfpd the quality of the engineering that went into it.
    You can tell it's a close tolerance, quality bearing and to me it's obvious where the costs lie. It's been discussed recently elsewhere that the noise issue I had with my original bearing could have been fixed with a new "standard" bearing. In my opinion that defeats the point, as this would only be a temporary fix, as you still don't retain the oil in the correct places.

    Just out of interest, is it easy to remove the bearing spindle for cleaning and the application of fresh oil.
    I don't need to yet, but I am just curious if I could do this if the need should arise.
    I have not tried, and thought it would be best to ask before.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  5. #805
    Mike_New Guest

    Default

    Hi CageyH,
    From your mention of FEA analysis I get the impression you are an design engineer, Aeroplanes I guess!!
    The Bearing is sealed at the base with the three 4mm high tensile bolts.
    I have not intensionally set out to totally prevent anyone from removing these, however I use Loktite 515 Master Flange Gasket Sealant on the base (need I say more). And this inevitably gets onto the threads of the bolts, which when tightened, makes them almost impossible to remove.
    I do use reather expensive 'extreme pressure' additive oil which should last the lifetime of the Bearing.
    The Syntered 'vacuum oil impregnated' bearing insert is also good for the life of the Bearing especially since the surface finish of the bearing is 0.4um; so there is virtually zero surface abrasion wear.
    The actual bearing insert is micro honed to fit the shaft.

  6. #806
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 7,187
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    A good guess.
    Thanks for the info on the bearing, and the oil. That makes it even more important that the customers get sent the Correct stuff sent out with the bearing as I really don't fancy trying to take it apart.

    Is the oil available "off the shelf", if not can I buy some direct please?
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  7. #807
    Mike_New Guest

    Default

    Hi Kevin,
    The oil used for applying to the top of the Bearing can be any good quality thin oil.
    Obviously not much is required as there is nowhere for it to go! It mainly serves the purpose of keeping dust out of the bearing.
    If you got the Bearing from David then he should have some.

    I actually supply 10cc in a syringe with the Bearings I supply, it is very thin synthetic oil available from suppliers anywhere in Europe.

  8. #808
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,495
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Hi Tony,

    Quote Originally Posted by twotone View Post
    Has anyone compared a brand new SL-1200 MK2 right out of the box brand spanking new without anything been done to except a cart fitted?

    I know when I bought my deck from Al, which was more or less brand new but not exactly, I thought it was fantastic.
    Yup, quite a few times. The stock T/T is certainly decent and well capable of giving some of the entry to mid-level belt-drives (such as Regas and Projects) a hard time, but it is limited by a number of factors that are addressed by the various mods available.

    At the very least, the stock feet and mat should be replaced with something more in keeping with a hi-fi turntable, as both those items are designed to nullify the effects of the T/T's use in a club environment, in terms of controlling the excessive vibration produced by hundreds of bodies jumping up and down, but which in terms of hi-fi use, over-damp the sound, failing to let the music 'breathe', thus making for a thick,' plodding' type of sound, compared with what is possible when those items are upgraded for something more suitable for hi-fi purposes.

    I've absolutely no intention of buying a new bearing or bearing plate or platter for that matter, I would rather sell the deck as is and buy something else like the Oracle Delphi MK2 that's on the Wam at the minute for £700 sans arm.
    That's absolutely fine, so enjoy what you've got, and also the Delphi, if you go for it. The latter is an excellent turntable, but very different from a modified SL-1200 or 1210.

    BTW, who is Pimlico boy?
    See here (from #47 onwards): http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...160#post538160

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  9. #809
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,495
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike_New View Post
    However it would serve as a comparitive measurement for those who are so aching for measured data to help them hear the music.
    I know, what are they like?

    Anyway, I admire your thinking, and if your idea gets off of the ground I think it could provide some valid evidence of the efficacy of your bearing for the benefit of our measurements fetishists!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  10. #810
    Join Date: Jan 2012

    Location: Glasgow, UK

    Posts: 2,083
    I'm Tony.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Hi Tony,



    Yup, quite a few times. The stock T/T is certainly decent and well capable of giving some of the entry to mid-level belt-drives (such as Regas and Projects) a hard time, but it is limited by a number of factors that are addressed by the various mods available.

    At the very least, the stock feet and mat should be replaced with something more in keeping with a hi-fi turntable, as both those items are designed to nullify the effects of the T/T's use in a club environment, in terms of controlling the excessive vibration produced by hundreds of bodies jumping up and down, but which in terms of hi-fi use, over-damp the sound, failing to let the music 'breathe', thus making for a thick,' plodding' type of sound, compared with what is possible when those items are upgraded for something more suitable for hi-fi purposes.



    That's absolutely fine, so enjoy what you've got, and also the Delphi, if you go for it. The latter is an excellent turntable, but very different from a modified SL-1200 or 1210.



    See here (from #47 onwards): http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...160#post538160

    Marco.
    Hi Marco, yep I've got Isonoes & techniboots and an Achromat plus a Timestep PSU and a new (to me) arm and one of Steve's armboards and a very decent cart.

    The Technics sounds fantastic to me and I'm well pleased with it but if I was going to spend another grand (bearing and platter) then I would be going for a completely different TT but I've no plans at the minute.

    However if, as someone else mentioned on this thread, that there was a MN bearing 'lite' for say, £250, then I would seriously consider buying one, I'm sure the 'proper' MN bearing is a fantastic bit of kit but for me I couldn't justify spending £450 on something like that for my TT but then I wouldn't spend that on a cart either or an arm for that matter, well maybe an arm but probably not.

    If I had £450 to spend right now on my Hi-Fi it would probably be on an amp and likely valves with the cost of my Brio-R going towards it or maybe speakers.

    Thanks for the heads up on yer mate

    Tony.

    PS, I sold the Arkless.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 81 of 123 FirstFirst ... 3171798081828391 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •