Location: Far Away
Posts: 1,373
I'm Gone.
Hi Shaun,
Sure, except that the "random bits" in question, offered by the likes of Mike New, Paul Hynes, Funk and others, are far from being random, but rather are the culmination of many months (in some cases years) of research and development by experienced professionals, who not only are experts in their own field of electronics or engineering, but fundamentally understand how to implement their products successfully into the design of the Technics SL-1200/1210.
If these guys were simply inexperienced 'bodgers/fly-by-nights' then you'd have a valid point, but that's not the case. Furthermore, look at it this way: do the "random bits" supplied by the many respected manufacturers who offer aftermarket modifications for the LP12 (Inspire, Funk, not to mention those from Audioflat, and many more besides) result in the LP12, when fitted with them, automatically becoming an inferior product, compared with the same turntable upgraded through a "naturally progressive path" by Linn?
Or does, say, an OL-modified Rega RB300 or Tecnoarm automatically suffer from the introduction of "random bits" provided by Origin Live and Michell, respectively, and somehow make it 'incorrect' or inferior, compared with the original item?
The answer of course is no. Much would depend on subjective opinion, after the user has listened to the alternatives and formed a conclusion on the matter - and so it is with the numerous aftermarket modifications available for the Technics. However, the key point here is that the Technics is not a 'special case' when it comes to non-manufacturer approved modifications being applied to its design, therefore it is not any more 'pointless' subjecting an SL-1200/1210 to such modifications than doing the same to a Linn or Rega turntable.
I really do hope that this fact will now finally penetrate the minds of the masses!
It depends on what you mean by "resembling"? Aesthetically, I'd say that most modified Technics T/Ts essentially still look like Technics T/Ts. Underneath the hood may be a different story, but at the end of the day, what does it matter? Surely the only thing that's important is how it sounds, not that you have an entirely original turntable and/or one whose performance evolution has been derived through following a path stipulated by the manufacturer?Buying bits and pieces and fitting them to your own deck is totally different and results in that deck not resembling the original item any longer.
I'm afraid when people worry about that sort of stuff it makes me question their ability to think for themselves, make their own decisions, and trust their ears, as opposed to being spoon-fed an 'official' upgrade path by a commercial manufacturer, which often locks the user into a very expensive and ultimately fruitless journey of 'box-swapping'.
At least with the Technics, no one single manufacturer has the monopoly on providing what is considered as the 'correct' or 'ultimate' upgrade path, which forces Technics users to think for themselves, apply some lateral thinking, and thus escape from being inside a self-imposed comfort zone!
I think the problem is, Shaun (and there's no shame or harm in this), you're just someone who prefers a 'ready-made solution', provided by a specific manufacturer, (the 'safe' choice, as it were) instead of pushing the boundaries and seeing just how much 'bang you can get for your buck' by maximising the full potential of a given design. As they say, each to his or her own - both approaches are valid
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Agreed. However, that doesn't necessarily mean you'll like the sound of it...
On that, I strongly disagree (you wouldn't know as you haven't applied any major modifications to your T/T), although I suppose it depends on what is meant by "night and day changes". I guess that sort of difference would realistically only occur with a major speaker upgrade or when moving to a new house, and thus putting your system into a totally different room.I appreciate it is easy to get a different impression from various postings but the mods bring tiny incremental improvements, not night and day changes.
However, if we replace the hyperbole and the description of improvements as being "night and day" with, say, 'fundamentally significant and highly effective', then that is most certainly an accurate description of what happens when one fits the likes of a Mike New bearing or Paul Hynes PSU to a Technics SL-1200/1210.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
SOURCE: SME12A Turntable with SME Series V tonearm/Hana Umami Red, or Audio Technica AT-OC9XSH, PS Audio Stellar Phonostage, Shanling CD 80MkII, OPPO UDP-205 BluRay, SkyQ.
AMPLIFIER: Bryston BR-20 Pre/DAC/Streamer & Bryston 4B3 Power Amplifier
SPEAKERS: Spendor D7 on Iso-Acoustics Gaia Neo III’s
HEADPHONES: OPPO PM-1 with Atlas Zeno cable, B&W Pi8.
CABLES: Analogue: Speaker: Atlas Mavros Grun. Interconnect - Atlas Mavros XLR x3.
Digital:Audioquest Carbon Ethernet x 4, Audioquest Carbon digital x2, English Electric 8 Switch, Chord Optichord, Atlas Optical.
Mains: PS Audio Perfectwave AC-05 x 7, Isol-8 Powerline Extreme with Quantum Science yellow fuse on input cable, Sounds Fantastic 6way Mains Blocks.
ACCESSORIES: Keith Monks Prodigy+ RCM
STORAGE: Synology DS216J NAS with 2 x 3Tb WD Red hard-drives. Samsung 500Gb SSD.
TV LG55B7 OLED
Location: Granes - Haut Vallee de l'aude - EU
Posts: 2,830
I'm Richard.
I think this is reasonable, although as I think Marco has subsequently commented, it depends on your hyperbole scale. You have of course described the motor unit. And I for one would agree that the biggest change to the record player is to sort the arm out. Having listened to 2 other arms on the deck, the standard arm, and a funked standard arm, the 2 "non-standards" were clearly identifiable, possessing their own distinct characteristics. The funked Technics was a disappointment, and "family of" the standard arm. Thereafter, changes to the motor unit will have less obvious effects - the benefits of which are perhaps only apparent when everything else is sorted and you can chase down those subtleties. Mat very obvious, and decent bang for buck. Platter is fairly obvious - both funks (the only 2 non-standards I have heard) being quite obviously different from the standard, but serious money (like why not save it and buy a different TT!). I'm guessing now, but the bearing is not going to make a huge difference to sound (unless the standard was worn) but the MN will allow his heavyweight early platters to be used. The new funk will be stable and hard - so good at transmitting energy away from the platter. If I were keeping one rather than having it as a hostage while my PT was fixed, or doing AK a favour and giving him a 2nd opinion on his mods, my feeling is I would look to isolation next.
But my main point is your comments relate to the motor unit, and this bears out my little obsession that, whilst far from irrelevant, the motor unit makes a less obvious contribution to the record player sound than the arm.![]()
Indeed, and unfortunately, it shows....
Not so (and I'm speaking from practical experience, not guessing), upgrading from the stock Technics bearing to the MN one produces significant improvements, in terms of overall noise reduction, and therefore music is reproduced in a much more believable and lifelike way. Trust me, the effect is not subtle!...but the bearing is not going to make a huge difference to sound (unless the standard was worn)
These improvements occur simply because the stock Technics bearing, whilst decent, was built to a price. Mike's, on the other hand wasn't, and has been engineered to a much higher standard, improving mechanical integrity along the way, resulting in a far superior item, all round. You only have to hold an MN bearing and a stock Technics one in your hand to appreciate that they are two very different animals!
The bearings I've seen on some £10k turntables aren't as well made as Mike's...
Sorry, Richard, I totally disagree. The superb (highly accurate) Quartz-controlled D/D motor unit is the whole raison d'être behind modifying the Technics - a motor unit that would cost many thousands of pounds to produce today. Without that, modifying the Technics, in the way many of us do here, would be a complete waste of time. It is because the motor unit is *so* good, that transforming the Techy into a genuinely world class T/T is possible.But my main point is your comments relate to the motor unit, and this bears out my little obsession that, whilst far from irrelevant, the motor unit makes a less obvious contribution to the record player sound than the arm.
No tonearm in the world could exert a similar influence.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: Granes - Haut Vallee de l'aude - EU
Posts: 2,830
I'm Richard.
Not guessing now. Direct experience. If you take an SL1200, a Pink Triangle, a Funk LSD and a Funk Saphire, and you put on them a Funk FXR and Funk F5 - you can hear the arm on each turntable. Whilst the record players sound different for changing the motor unit, (an in particular in that set, the stock Technics is quite poor) the character of the arm is evident across the range. I guess this all comes back to balance and system matching but the arms character is very evident. Perhaps it just reflects my recent experience - when you look around most people try different arms on a turntable. I have been (not deliberately) trying different turntables under the same arm!
It wasn't meant to knock the Technics Direct Drive, which is a perfectly competent motor. Perhaps you misinterpreted my use of "motor unit". Harking back to HiFi Choice reviews I meant the turntable bit of a record player rather than the arm bit of a record player. I didn't mean the motor, like the adored DD on the SL1200 or the premotec I am fitting to my PT. I meant the bit of the record player that isn't the arm or the cartridge. "Turntable" is often confused with "whole record player" - perhaps not so much on this forum, but in general usage. In that context, you have changed most of the "motor unit" just keeping the motor. But whilst platters, bearings, feet, plinths, lids etc all affect the sound somewhat, it is , as Martin suggested, relatively subtle at each stage
And the motor, the beloved SL1200 DD is good - but it only spins the record at the right speed!And there has been a fair bit of recent confusion about whether it can do that at anything other than the finest balance of mass/inertia. Opinions varying erratically over time from the same users.
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yes I was using motor unit in it's accepted sense rather than referring to the actual, DD quartz locked motor. Apologies for any confusion.
Also would like to point out that if the deck is susceptible to vibration and has significant speed variation then you would be wasting your time trying different arms on it, no matter how good they were.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > Troels Gravesen Faital 3WC-15.