NVA interconnects

[WOStantonCS100]

I thought forums were a place for people to ask questions, find answers and further enjoy their hobby. Not to act like a bunch of kids, picking on people, slagging people off and generally behaving like spoilt babies.

Grow up, delete the thread and if you want to discuss cables without dragging up personal issues please do so, otherwise for me this forum is a no no.

Right, James. That's what I've been attempting to do, by just addressing the cable(s).

[Ali Tait]

I thought forums were a place for people to ask questions, find answers and further enjoy their hobby. Not to act like a bunch of kids, picking on people, slagging people off and generally behaving like spoilt babies.

Grow up, delete the thread and if you want to discuss cables without dragging up personal issues please do so, otherwise for me this forum is a no no.

Perhaps your post should be put up on HFS too.

[Barry]

Great post Barry! Easily the most constructive on this thread.

So, given that I am poised to repair said cable, what can I do to fix them properly once and for all so that they don't break again?
I am open to any connector and process that I can carry out at home.

Thanks!

Well, apart from dispensing with the Profi connectors altogether, and fitting something like those shown in Alan's photo (post 130), all you can do is to assure the inner conductor is not damaged when you cut back both the copper outer and the dielectric. You will have to be very, very careful.

If you can manage it, I suggest you cut back the outer allowing say 5mm of dielectric to remain, then trim the dielectric using wire strippers which can have the depth of cut set to 0.5mm. Strip the dielectric back 2mm, exposing 2mm of inner conductor for the connection to the body of the connector. For the conductor that connects to the pin of the connector, I suggest 11mm of exposed dielectric, trimmed back to 9mm.

When you fit the strain relief collet and the outer barrel of the Profi plug, try to tighten them as hard as you can. It won't be foolproof and you will still have to handle the cables carefully. Ironically the Neutrik Profi plug when mated with a phono socket, grips the socket like there's no tomorrow, so when de-mating you will have to be extraordinarily careful!

Good Luck!

[Marco]

For everyone who has an issue with Richard Dunn I meet someone who has nothing but praise.

Sure, but show me ONE person in the latter category, who has arrived at that 'happy state of affairs', and who hasn't simply just given RD money in return for product(s) or licked his arse/stroked his ego, but has instead challenged him legitimately in some way....?

The fact is, there are only three types of people I know of who remain on good terms with RD for any length of time:

1) 'Satisfied customers' (i.e. mostly those who have simply bought something from NVA, and been satisfied with it, without ever having any need to contact RD again). It's naturally very easy to remain on good terms with him that way.

2) The resident arse-lickers on his forum who kowtow to RD's every whim, for fear of falling out with him and being 'blacklisted', thus suffering the consequences in terms of having existing product repaired or being supplied with new product (remember that RD is on record saying that he'll only deal with those he likes!!) or being banned from HFS, and having nothing else worthwhile to do with their lives, as clearly that is the extent of their available 'entertainment'.

3) His wife.

Marco.

[WOStantonCS100]

Well, apart from dispensing with the Profi connectors altogether, and fitting something like those shown in Alan's photo (post 130), all you can do is to assure the inner conductor is not damaged when you cut back both the copper outer and the dielectric. You will have to be very, very careful.

If you can manage it, I suggest you cut back the outer allowing say 5mm of dielectric to remain, then trim the dielectric using wire strippers which can have the depth of cut set to 0.5mm. Strip the dielectric back 2mm, exposing 2mm of inner conductor for the connection to the body of the connector. For the conductor that connects to the pin of the connector, I suggest 11mm of exposed dielectric, trimmed back to 9mm.

When you fit the strain relief collet and the outer barrel of the Profi plug, try to tighten them as hard as you can. It won't be foolproof and you will still have to handle the cables carefully. Ironically the Neutrik Profi plug when mated with a phono socket, grips the socket like there's no tomorrow, so when de-mating you will have to be extraordinarily careful!

Good Luck!

Yes. Exactly. Agreed. What he said.

[Marco]

Barry, just in case you haven't read RD's response to you on his forum. Here it is:

"I give up we have another self appointed expert (Barry) who has never used the cable telling me how they should be made. All he has done is read on line information about their use in their #1 application as radar or microwave cable. A RCA plug wouldn't even pass those frequencies so he is talking bollocks out some hole or other. The description is for stripping the cable for fitting to SMA plug when used for multi Ghz application, not for audio applications.

If he wants to be an expert let him buy some of the cable and make some interconnects and then comment."

A challenge, perhaps? It would be an interesting exercise for the potential benefit of AoS members (and you)

Marco.

P.S Ali, I presume you've read his response to you, regarding your suggestion...?

[Figlet108]

Thanks Barry, Biff, Ali.

2 quick follow-on questions.
The phono connectors in Alan's post are the ones that came with my original cables that I bought direct from NVA. In my experience they break *much* more easily than the profis. Did you guys mean to fit them just as in Alan's photo, or have I misunderstood?

Also, if I wanted to try the liquid insulation, you know, just to experiment with new techniques, can someone please find a link to a product I can buy? Sorry to be a bit of a numpty, but I just can't find anything on Google and I wonder if I'm searching for the wrong thing...

Thanks folks.

[Andrew B]

As there are some contributors to this thread who are sticking to the topic of the cable, I thought it worthwhile mentioning that some of the points made about construction and dealing with this unusual cable have been challenged by the manufacturer.

I'm posting a link here for this purpose only, as my trying to reiterate technical points about construction would probably be as accurate and meaningful as anything my avatar would say

http://hifisubjectivist.org/viewtopi...759&start=2910

I'd find it hard to believe anyone here has anything like the same amount of experience with this stuff, so at the very least I feel it's worth contributors taking a look.

[chelsea]

Would prefer to see cable threads banned on every forum.
Complete waste of time and space.

[Ali Tait]

Barry, just in case you haven't read RD's response to you on his forum. Here it is:



A challenge, perhaps? It would be an interesting exercise for the potential benefit of AoS members (and you)

Marco.

P.S Ali, I presume you've read his response to you, regarding your suggestion...?

No, I don't go there anymore mate.