Beautiful!
Can you imagine how many thousands this would cost if done as a commercial venture for production speakers? Mass production or not, these boxes wouldn't be cheap!
Beautiful!
Can you imagine how many thousands this would cost if done as a commercial venture for production speakers? Mass production or not, these boxes wouldn't be cheap!
I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?
Thanks for the thumbs up guys...it's been a learning journey and a lot of hard work! The proof of the pudding and all that though, so waiting with baited breath to hear what the outcome will be next week. It's been quite an expensive project too, probably could have bought a really good pair of speakers for what this little lot has cost, but to buy somthing LIKE this would probably set me back 5 times what it's cost me.
A little more progress this evening. The removable panels for the crossovers are completed although I may try and finish them off with a better quality lacquer coat. I've now fitted the crossovers and binding posts into place and have just finished soldering the crossover connection to the binding posts which are silver plated copper:
The binding post side (rear of cabinet) can be seen next to the inside containing the crossover. I've rebated the panels and added some compressible draught excluder strips to act as gaskets:
![]()
Paul, have you upgraded the wire from the the speaker connector to the tweeter on the Tannoy's?
If not I'd seriously suggest that the crossovers should be hard wired to the speaker terminals.
Looking amazing matey, really good. They look like Wilson Benesch.. but obviously more beefy than their Pringle tubes they call cabs... LOL
Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable
Tannoyista.com - Audio Equipment Reviews
I haven't Joe as I'm unsure what an upgraded wire looks likeThey're fine mate, the connectors are new old stock and fit really firmly. Yes, it would be better to hard-wire but the drivers may be in and out of the cabs for a while so the plugs are a better idea for now.
The one thing that does concern me is the proximity of the inductors on the PCB. I must speak with the builder of the crossover as these inductors should be much wider spaced than they are.
Location: fuck off
Posts: 2,030
I'm fuckoff.
Great work Paul, impressive speed of progress too.
Hope I'm not taken this too ot; when wiring internals, would it ever be wise to use the same wire as the speaker cable you've used?
The logic behind the question is that all speaker cable has a sound, if you like it then it would be best to preserve it, right?
Hi Martin, thanks.
RE the cable query, I don't believe in cables (ie cable core conductors themselves) having a a sound, just in having LCR parameters, so providing the cable is fit for purpose, I'm happy. Whilst I do think that interconnect signal cables (by geometry, materials and design) can differ, wiring for a x-over from the binding posts is a very short run and any impedance differences between that length (about 150mm) and the main speaker cables is insignificant. Also, the speaker cable impedance is only a small fraction (less than 5% of the circuit impedance of the speaker). The connections are all hard wired bar the 4 pin connector to the speaker and this is a NOS item which has been cleaned and treated and is a firm fit. The wired to the tweeter and bass drive units are all brand new.![]()
Crossed wires methinks! ALL wiring is new and NON Tannoy. The only thing that is Tannoy is the NOS 4 pin plug and there's nothing wrong with the connection which unlike my old ones, isn't corroded or anything like that. The original crossovers used crappy lighting flex (which when pulled apart was badly corroded). I renewed the wiring on my original crossovers which I have kept as spares. Changing the wire I have will make zero difference. Soldering in place of the 4-pin may be something I do in the future but only once the crossover tweaks have been done, so its a long way off just yet.
The proximity of the coils could be better to be honest.
They are ok but I too would question the design. For me it would have to be right and it would bug me if not. But that's me,,, lol
No worries, if your swapping in and out then it's best to stay with the connector. But as Tom said, no matter how good that connector is the contact is still a weak point regardless of how good the plug is.
What I've learned is that any sort of plug on the outward from the crossover can make a difference to the sound.
Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable
Tannoyista.com - Audio Equipment Reviews
Hi Joe
yes, you're right of course but it's by degrees and some things have a more significant impact than others.
I've spoken with Mark Pitcher today regarding the inductor coil spacing and I think Mark will be amending future designs as a result.
I'll be lifting the inductor from where it is and moving it to the far side of the PCB and soldering new connecting wires to the existing wiring point on the PCB. A bit of a pain, but better to get things right.
I may also be swapping out the notch filter 30R resistor for a 35R value instead just to tame the HF response down a little (not much) either that or replacing the 4mH inductor (smaller of the two which are next to each other) for a 4.5mH one as that should have a similar effect.
One thing at a time though!
Got to find time to finish the speaker cabinets off next week. Will report back once I've done that!