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Thread: Celestion Ditton 44

  1. #171
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: Newbury

    Posts: 702
    I'm RichardbutpreferRich.

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    There is a good thread on the vintage radio forum regarding tweeter replacement, well worth a read if considering

    http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=55474
    Rich

    Source: Squeezebox Touch, Chinese AK4396 DAC, Pioneer PL-112D + Shure M75ED type2, Pioneer PD-7700 CDP
    Amp: Sansui AU-505
    Speakers: Ditton 44's

  2. #172
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 1,225
    I'm andy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dantheman91 View Post
    Still running mine.
    Good, long may it continue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mothman View Post
    There is a good thread on the vintage radio forum regarding tweeter replacement, well worth a read if considering

    http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=55474
    Thanks, will trawl through that once i'm fed and rested, never knew about that site before.
    Frank...made me do it.

  3. #173
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 1,225
    I'm andy.

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    Can't wait till the weekend so went out to buy spade connectors and duly crimped,don't want to solder incase i didn't like the sound so easier to move on,
    sounding lovely so just the matter of widening the hole on the baffle,was thinking of borrowing a hole drill bit but feel a bit unsure,
    as i will be drilling it freehand and there being a existing 65mm hole there already, anyone any ideas.

    http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/854/001hsd.jpg
    Frank...made me do it.

  4. #174
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,610
    I'm Geoff.

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    Hi Andy, glad things sound promising.

    A hole saw is not the right tool to widen an existing hole as you'd have no way of centering it and it would wander about chewing wood up. I don't know how much material you need to remove, but it can't be much. I reckon a rotary rasp in a drill will probably do it OK. Just take it very gently and finish off with a hand file and sandpaper.

  5. #175
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

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    Bloody Cowboys

    1: Router:
    2: Deep Profile trimmer bit (Bearing at the top (none cutting end) of the cutter/at the base of the shank)
    3: Piece of 1/4''' MDF to make a cut out template for the router)

    The MDF wants to be long enough for you to use the Mid Range unit fixing ter hold it in place.. Once you made perfect cutout in you MDF template you can't go wrong really.

    Will the new tweeter completely cover the old faceplate recess?
    Last edited by Rare Bird; 12-01-2013 at 18:49.

  6. #176
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,610
    I'm Geoff.

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    "Cowboys" indeed!

    I was just trying to keep it simple Andre. I agree, a router would do a nice job, but I suspect Andy's bit of woodwork is a small one off and unless he's going to do more, a router and cutter bits is quite an expensive investment.

    Any work done with a rasp will be hidden and if done with care should be adequate.

  7. #177
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    "Cowboys" indeed!
    I'd be climbing the walls if i knew i had an hand trimmed cut out behind my tweeters

  8. #178
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 1,225
    I'm andy.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Hi Andy, glad things sound promising.

    A hole saw is not the right tool to widen an existing hole as you'd have no way of centering it and it would wander about chewing wood up. I don't know how much material you need to remove, but it can't be much. I reckon a rotary rasp in a drill will probably do it OK. Just take it very gently and finish off with a hand file and sandpaper.
    Yes Geoff, sounded braw and thanks for the heads up btw,

    Been thinking at work today and think the hole saw idea is doable but only if i made a 5mm thick template with outer circumference,
    held in place by the 3 clamps then criss cross to find centre, then drill the whole way through,
    but will the template be thick enough give me enough purchase to stop hole saw drill bit from going off centre.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rare Bird View Post
    Bloody Cowboys

    1: Router:
    2: Deep Profile trimmer bit (Bearing at the top (none cutting end) of the cutter/at the base of the shank)
    3: Piece of 1/4''' MDF to make a cut out template for the router)

    The MDF wants to be long enough for you to use the Mid Range unit fixing ter hold it in place.. Once you made perfect cutout in you MDF template you can't go wrong really.

    Will the new tweeter completely cover the old faceplate recess?
    Don't hold back dude.

    Point #1 is out, can't get a hold of a router whereas i coiuld borrow a hole saw bit from work, lost me #2 and thought about point #3.

    The tweeter won't cover the recess being slightly smaller than original, but thats o.k., i am gonna make a gasket from non slip mat that'll cover the slight exposed ring or i could just paint the recessed bit black, either way it'll be fine.
    Frank...made me do it.

  9. #179
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

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    As long as you get a good seal, You could fit some tweeter absorption pads over the new face plates which will disguise the gap..

    http://www.diffractionbegone.com/newblankcontact.html
    Last edited by Rare Bird; 09-01-2013 at 23:25.

  10. #180
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 1,225
    I'm andy.

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    The seal is no problem, the tweeters actually have very thin foam backing to seal them to the baffle, quite nifty wee tweeters, anything i am doing is just cosmetic.
    Frank...made me do it.

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