Just wipe your nose on the back of your sleeve, and rub the accumulated nasal slather into the grain - you'll find the cabinets come up a treat!
Marco,
Site Owner/Administrator
Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK
Posts: 110,012
I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.
Just wipe your nose on the back of your sleeve, and rub the accumulated nasal slather into the grain - you'll find the cabinets come up a treat!
Marco,
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
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Pishanto Specialist & Super-Daftee
Location: Dagenham Essex
Posts: 11,215
I'm Allen.
That's snot a good ideaOriginally Posted by Marco
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Moderator & Terminator!
Location: N E Kent
Posts: 51,626
I'm Geoff.
Tip!
Never use Teak oil or any other oil based wood finishing teatment on veneers, as some veneer adhesives are soluble in oil and your veneer may start lifting off.
Senior Member
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,595
I'm Bernie.
I Danish oiled mine 12 years ago and they're still fine.
Bernie.
Moderator & Terminator!
Location: N E Kent
Posts: 51,626
I'm Geoff.
Depends on the veneer adhesive!
Senior Member
Location: london
Posts: 1,133
I'm george.
Depends what kind of paint you are going to use...oil,water,or acrylic based?Cleaning veneers ?
I need a very good deep clean of my speaker cases
I have read Barry's entry in the knowledge cafe and he recommends a wipe with white spirit
I want to avoid leaving any residue / oil film on the veneer as I am going to paint the cases ( wood finish does not fit in with my decor )
Also I do not want to sand the cases as I will sand off the wood grain
Any suggestions ?
How are you going to apply it? Brush, roller, or spray?
OR....depending on your budget,and if you have the drivers out,you could just bring them to a friendly car sprayer,who will prepare them and give them a coat of primer to seal them,and then what ever colour you want....
Friend of mine got his teak speakers sprayed black by the local sprayer and they came up a treat,very professional looking...but with a bit of work,you could do a good job yourself with the proper roller/paint combo
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