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Thread: Mod your Beresford TC-7510

  1. #91
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Valley of the Hazels

    Posts: 9,143
    I'm AMusicFanNotAnAudiophile.

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    After 2 weeks worth of run in (as things have now stabilised) I feel that I am now in a position to comment on the MOD21 part 1 I performed on my 7510 6/3.

    I am gobsmacked by the level of detail retrieval at hand - fine detail is rendered with much, much finer brushstrokes.

    And yet this greater detailing is not at the expense of tonal balance - the tonal balance is pretty much the same as it was before effecting the MOD21 stuff.

    Rhythmically things are bang on the money too (as they were before).

    Low bitrate radio streams sound far more convincing than before - I use the BBC iPlayer plugin on with my Squeezebox SB3 setup, and the listen live on Radio 2 sounds very. very good indeed - you're talking 96 kbs with these streams. Any lower on the bitrate and things sound pretty awful, as one would expect (don't bother with Alien BBC unless you have to).

    Recordings that are less than perfectly done benefit too - I played "wind up working in a gas station (Zoot Allures)" by Frank Zappa last night, and the track, which is a bit of a production nightmare (ie trashy and thrashy), was more coherent and together than I have previously heard by quite a large margin.

    Of course there are some recordings that are beyond redemption, due in no small part to the "loudness wars" that are currently going on, and these still sound like a bag-o-sh*te, but you cannot blame the messenger for this - after all, you can't polish a turd !

    All in all, the first stage MOD21 is the best £1.00 (factoring in the cost of running the soldering iron) I've spent on audio upgrades.

    And I've ended up turning down the vdc on my Maplin psu back to 12vdc - on the 13.5 vdc setting I felt that the effect was indeed like pressing the loudness button, whereas I felt that it was required with the 7510 6/3 stock unit.

    Chris

  2. #92
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmangler View Post
    All in all, the first stage MOD21 is the best £1.00 (factoring in the cost of running the soldering iron) I've spent on audio upgrades.
    It's a pity that so few people would be able to fit the upgrade, since it requires a decent level of electronic repair/hobbyist experience. And one can spend money on far more expensive parts if pocket conditions allow, instead of having to pay P&P and for my time to get it done.
    Have to also done the Mod21pt2? The link is mentioned in this thread somewhere. If you are already happy and overjoyed with part1, then you can quite happily skip part2.

    Stan

  3. #93
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Posts: 164

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sensimilia View Post
    It's a pity that so few people would be able to fit the upgrade, since it requires a decent level of electronic repair/hobbyist experience. And one can spend money on far more expensive parts if pocket conditions allow, instead of having to pay P&P and for my time to get it done.
    Have to also done the Mod21pt2? The link is mentioned in this thread somewhere. If you are already happy and overjoyed with part1, then you can quite happily skip part2.

    Stan
    Hi folks!!!!!!!!
    I got in touch with Stan to clarify what capacitors to use in the Mod 21 part 2. It is as follows..........
    " Use some wimb type design smd capacitor 220gf of 100v. They are about 8mm high"
    I hope others find this as useful as I did. Thanks Stan . Your after sales support is amazing and many a retail shop would do well to follow your good example. I was most impressed that you suggested other dac makes to readers depending upon their needs, showing virtue and respect for your competition rather than dismissing or slagging them off .........a rare character quality these days.......... In my eyes your no longer just Stan but "" Stan the main man"

  4. #94
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

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    Quote Originally Posted by kalozois100 View Post
    " Use some wimb type design smd capacitor 220gf of 100v. They are about 8mm high"
    It should read: use something like Wima 220pF/100V.

    STan

  5. #95
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Posts: 164

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    Thanks Stan.. I m not an electronics man Are you sure they are about 8mm or are they smaller?
    Last edited by kalozois100; 04-02-2009 at 15:38.

  6. #96
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Posts: 164

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    Hey Stan,
    A friend of mine suggested I change the fuses in the power plugs of my seperates according to the power consumption of all the seperates . I thought this odd at first but then having an open mind i tried it. From 13 amp fuses we changed to 3 amp fuses for LP12(has 8 watt power consumption) and amplifier(has 300 watt power consumption). When i listened to the sound system again I was amazed to hear an improvement in the sound. The bass was richer the mids smoother and treble more silky. it was as if the system had already been warmed up for an hour or so. Cant say with tc-7510 cause its at the electrician for modifications. Is there anything in this? Is what ive done safe or am i gonna blow everything up? Its the cheapest upgrade i ve made so far - only 1 euro!!!

  7. #97
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Down South

    Posts: 2,411
    I'm Neal.

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    The fuse only really protects the mains lead, the equipment fuse would blow long before the mains fuse. Maybe you noted a difference because the replacement fuse was new and therefore had clean contacts...not an unheard of effect...

    I implemented partII of Stans MOD21 today and can vouch for its effectiveness. The LM4562 is much more open and natural than the OPA2134 I was using previously. It's taken the DAC up yet another level, well worth it IMO.

  8. #98
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Posts: 164

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    Quote Originally Posted by NRG View Post
    The fuse only really protects the mains lead, the equipment fuse would blow long before the mains fuse. Maybe you noted a difference because the replacement fuse was new and therefore had clean contacts...not an unheard of effect...

    I implemented partII of Stans MOD21 today and can vouch for its effectiveness. The LM4562 is much more open and natural than the OPA2134 I was using previously. It's taken the DAC up yet another level, well worth it IMO.
    Good evening( sorry don't know yor name)
    Yes that makes sense. i have been advised to change fuses every 6 to 12 months because they deteriorate.
    Ah at last someone who has gone where I'm heading!! I'm really happy with your feedback but makes the waiting to get it back harder. My elec. engineer was asking about the mod 21 part 2. Is the C5 and C6 replacements really 8mm high or is it 0.8mm high?what height capacitors did you put in?

  9. #99
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: NE Scotland

    Posts: 496
    I'm Jim.

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    Is it too soon to open a 7520 mod thread?
    Naim ND5 XS, nDAC, XP5 XS, 202, HC, NAPSC, 250.2, B&W 804s.
    AVR350, B&W HTM4, Gallo.
    Samsung, Oppo.

  10. #100
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Down South

    Posts: 2,411
    I'm Neal.

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    I raided my spares box and put in some old polystyrene caps I had, they are not ideal but are OK for now. One like these:

    http://uk.farnell.com/lcr-components...60v/dp/9520031

    I think Stan was talking about these types though:

    http://uk.farnell.com/wima/fkp2-220p...00v/dp/1005983

    About 11mm high including the leads.

    There are some SMD types available as well:

    http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/bro...questid=649024

    --Neal

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