Agreed, 3rd variant is the most attractive.
Agreed, 3rd variant is the most attractive.
Analogue: Technics SL1210 M5G, AN Arm One/II, Blue Angel Mantis MC
Amps: Devialet 200
Speakers: Usher Mini 2 Dancer DMD
Cables: Supra, Mark Grant, Reference Fidelity
DIY System Audiosector Gainclone, Salas DCB1, AudioSector MC Phono stage
I'm still not comfortable with the icons but it's Stan's baby at the end of the day. Rockwell Italic for me too...
3rd for me too!
I'd agree with that. Good work Werner.
The only adjustment I'd make is moving the Beresford logo to the left slightly to align it with the power button.
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 21
I'm Lee.
Having looked at all the different ideas, I just looked back at my Caiman, which I quite like the look of in comparison. I know others seem to think the gold is too much bling, but looking at the gold on the Caiman, it adds a feeling of warmth to the presentation. Looking at Werner's most recent submissions, I get the opposite feeling, a look that is hard, cold, even brutal. I also think the symbols feel heavy and a bit "in your face."
I prefer a very minimalist look. I really don't see the need to label the power button, nor the headphone socket. Both are self-explanitory. Watch any three year old pushing buttons to realize these simple functions are well within the grasp of anyone who would consider buying a DAC in the first place. The select button's function, being much smaller than the power button and located next to the LED's, is easily worked out as well, without the need for text or symbol. It's special functions (dimming of LED's and switching of auto mode) are really only understood after reading the user manual, anyway. The only text that is possibly needed is the numbering of the LED's, with corresponding labels printed next to sockets on the back.
The Beresford logo is fine, unless Stan feels ready to rebrand. For the Bushmaster, I prefer the non-italic, plain thin fonts, the same as the numbers, to differentiate it from the logo. Having the logo and model name both italic and of a similar or same font makes the eye uncomfortable, wondering which is the company brand and which is the model. As far as the DAC description, I'm not convinced it's needed at all, but if it is, it should be in the same plain font, only smaller than the Bushmaster, of the same size and weight as the LED labels.
Just my opinion. ... All a matter of different taste for different folks.
Hi Lee, welcome to AoS and I would strongly suggest that you leg it to the welcome area and post an introduction before the murderators arrive on the scene with their baseball bats.
It's one of those things that the EU regulators insist that you make clear on your equipment in case consumers get confused as to what a knob or switch is supposed to be for.I prefer a very minimalist look. I really don't see the need to label the power button, nor the headphone socket. Both are self-explanitory. Watch any three year old pushing buttons to realize these simple functions are well within the grasp of anyone who would consider buying a DAC in the first place. The select button's function, being much smaller than the power button and located next to the LED's, is easily worked out as well, without the need for text or symbol. It's special functions (dimming of LED's and switching of auto mode) are really only understood after reading the user manual, anyway. The only text that is possibly needed is the numbering of the LED's, with corresponding labels printed next to sockets on the back.
Website: http://www.homehifi.co.uk
Website: http://www.beresford.me
Website: http://www.homehifi.asia
Hi Lee,
Welcome to AoS
Before going any further, please pop into the Welcome area and post a new thread there, introducing yourself to our members, telling us what system you use and what music you like. This procedure is now required of all members.
Cheers!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 49
I'm Tyrone.
I like the 3rd variant.
Touching on the design argument, I can see both sides here:
On the one hand the previous designs were basic and not very pretty but for me if they work well then the look is by the by.
On the other hand, when something looks good it automatically becomes desirable and as Werner said, the first bite is with the eye! Apple have this down to a fine art which has made hi tech very accessible to everyone and not just techies!
If you put two devices side by side and test them most people will pick the shiny pretty product over all else even if the sound from the ugly duckling was better. A good friend of mine decided a few years back that he would go out and put together a good hi-fi. The hi fi shop recommended buying all manner of expensive and very pretty cables and interconnects and gave him a case of them to trial at home. I took over a few of my own cables that although were well made did not have shiny connectors or purple sheaths and ran some double blind tests for him to decide, the tests were inconclusive and so I recommended he not shell out £70 quid for an interconnect and instead look around the budget end which is where my cables are sourced from.
Well he went back to the hi-fi shop and came back a few hundred quid lighter with a selection of the prettiest cables you ever did see...
The only issue with the Bushmaster is that my wife will know it cost more than "a couple of quid" when I remove it from the box...
I prefer Syntax Roman, though I was quite taken with the Copperplate script offered by someone earlier.
What does it look like with "Auto" above the LED lined up with the numbers and the lines grouping the inputs omitted?
I still think "24/192 DAC" is a sufficient description of the front panel, and I still think the logo would be better if it lost it ring.
Brian
In Southampton: Raspberry Pi 4 running PiCorePlayer, Beresford Caiman SEG, Quad 77 Int Amp and CD Player, AVI Neutron 4, Sennheiser HD25 headphones.
In Nicosia: Small Format HTPC, Beresford 7520 ,Quad 405-2, Quart 980s German Tower Loudspeakers.