+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: What's the optimal voltage for a caiman ...

  1. #1
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Elland

    Posts: 6,922
    I'm David.

    Default What's the optimal voltage for a caiman ...

    ... With the Tirna mods and a gator?
    CS Port TAT2 - Benz LPS - Funkfirm Houdini - DS Audio Vinyl Ionizer - CS Port C3EQ - Kondo G70 - Kondo Gakuoh II - Maxonic TW1100 MKII - Isol-8 SubStation Integra

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,025
    I'm Confused.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish View Post
    ... With the Tirna mods and a gator?
    I asked the same question of the most knowledgeable member on here (guess who ) a year or so ago - mine is fed with a linear PSU - and he recommended not going above 16.5v IIRC. Allowing for my cheap DMM not to be spot on accurate I set it at 16.3v. It's been running very happily on that level since then with absolutely no problems (so far - keep your fingers crossed for me ) with a wide variety of op-amps installed. I believe it sounded better for the higher input voltage but YMMV.
    Hope this helps,
    Dave.
    DaveK.

    My System:
    Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
    Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
    Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
    Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
    Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Elland

    Posts: 6,922
    I'm David.

    Default

    16v or more makes the headphone out sound harsh IME! (with grado 325's and superlux cheapy wotsits - just for ref)
    Because of this I dropped it to 15.5v which seems to make it sound sweet as a nut through headphones but I could swear the line and variable don't sound quite as nice ...
    It's not really an issue as its being used as a headphone amp at the mo, I just wondered if there was a voltage where both would be spot on ...
    I don't like fiddling to much as I don't really like opening my MCRU psu ...
    CS Port TAT2 - Benz LPS - Funkfirm Houdini - DS Audio Vinyl Ionizer - CS Port C3EQ - Kondo G70 - Kondo Gakuoh II - Maxonic TW1100 MKII - Isol-8 SubStation Integra

  4. #4
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish View Post
    ... With the Tirna mods and a gator?
    You can probably do with the filter and gain mod on the Gator, since you got one of the earlier Gator boards. PM or email me and we can sort out how to get those mods added to your Gator.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,025
    I'm Confused.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by StanleyB View Post
    You can probably do with the filter and gain mod on the Gator, since you got one of the earlier Gator boards. PM or email me and we can sort out how to get those mods added to your Gator.
    Stan,
    As you may recall Jerry (the Cove) and Gaz and I were also amongst the early uptakers of the 7520 and Gator boards. Would we benefit from opting for the above mods please?
    TIA,
    Dave.
    DaveK.

    My System:
    Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
    Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
    Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
    Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
    Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.

  6. #6
    MartinT Guest

    Default

    16V provided you replace the large reservoir cap. Use a big poly as I have done and replace the protection diode with a link. It sounds very good that way with the modded Gator driving my system.

  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Brisbane

    Posts: 1,593
    I'm Bernie.

    Default

    Martin, If you replace the reservoir cap with a poly (2 x 10uF Panasonics in my case) if the standard Beresford PSU is used would there be an issue?
    Bernie.

  8. #8
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Brisbane

    Posts: 1,593
    I'm Bernie.

    Default

    Hamish, I run mine at 15.8v and it sounds pretty good. I use a home made PSU with a SuperTeddyReg doing the work. I figure the Dexa regs would be getting about 15v as a result of the voltage drop across the protection diode.
    Bernie.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveK View Post
    Stan,
    As you may recall Jerry (the Cove) and Gaz and I were also amongst the early uptakers of the 7520 and Gator boards. Would we benefit from opting for the above mods please?
    TIA,
    Dave.
    Your Silmic boards should already have those mods. Hamish has a far older board according to my records.

  10. #10
    MartinT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Canetoad View Post
    Martin, If you replace the reservoir cap with a poly (2 x 10uF Panasonics in my case) if the standard Beresford PSU is used would there be an issue?
    No, not at all. However, I would urge you to go with the improved Beresford PSU at the very least (15V instead of 12V, from memory).

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •