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Thread: BiWiring Speakers

  1. #1
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Berkshire

    Posts: 2,732
    I'm Paul.

    Default BiWiring Speakers

    A question for all of those electronic gurus.

    How come when you have speakers with Bi-Wire connections using Bi-Wire cables makes all of the difference ?

    An example:

    You have 4 connections on the back of your amp, 2 red, 2 black and on each speaker you have 4 connections, 2 red, 2 black.

    If you use 2 sets of cables with 1 black and 1 red on either end and connect both cables at one end together to enable connection to the above amp and then leave the other 2 cables free to connect to the speakers.

    A mate of mine and I tried this on his new speakers and it made such a difference over using single wired cables going into the speakers with spliters on speaker.

    Difference in the sound:

    Large soundstage, sweeter treble, no muffling, tighter bass, cleaner sound.

    Any help to understand this one would be appreciated as I am a little lost

    Thanks

    Paul.
    Streamer: NovaFidelity X40, Turntable: Rega RP3, Arm: Rega RB303, Cartridge: Audio Technica AT120E, Amp: Belles Aria, Loudspeakers: Quadral Aurum Montan VIII, Rack: Creaktiv Trend 1, Cables: Beresford, Chord, Coherent, MCRU, Rega, TCI.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 544

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pjdowns View Post
    A question for all of those electronic gurus.

    How come when you have speakers with Bi-Wire connections using Bi-Wire cables makes all of the difference ?

    An example:

    You have 4 connections on the back of your amp, 2 red, 2 black and on each speaker you have 4 connections, 2 red, 2 black.

    If you use 2 sets of cables with 1 black and 1 red on either end and connect both cables at one end together to enable connection to the above amp and then leave the other 2 cables free to connect to the speakers.

    A mate of mine and I tried this on his new speakers and it made such a difference over using single wired cables going into the speakers with spliters on speaker.

    Difference in the sound:

    Large soundstage, sweeter treble, no muffling, tighter bass, cleaner sound.

    Any help to understand this one would be appreciated as I am a little lost

    Thanks

    Paul.
    Its pretty simple apart from the marketed theory is largely BS and at odds with the reality.

    The marketing theory is that the earth junction is taken from the speaker terminals back to the amp terminals so getting nearer to the star earth theory. This doesn't take into account how the crossover is designed and wired, if over complex with earth junctions then that theory is out the window. If very simple with two discreet legs then fine in theory you have an advantage.

    In reality the reason it sounds different is that you use two sets of cables and the amplifier "sees" those two sets of LCR (inductance capacitance and resistance) in parallel. This has unpredictable effects depending on the load at either end of the cable and also the inherent LCR of the specific cable. Basically you halve the resistance, double the capacitance and halve the inductance. Lots of variability and problems involved, for example if it is high cap Litz type cable, double that and you can fry some amplifiers that do not have output filtering, Zobel networks or output transformers.

    So you have been lucky that is all. The LCR conditions you created made the amplifiers / speaker interface happier The only way to bi-wire without these unpredictable consequences of messing with the LCR is by using NVA cable (LS1, LS3 or LS5) or if there are similar designs. Reason - for example LS5 has 28 seperately insulated solid cores, so to bi-wire you don't need to double the cable, you just split off 9 to the treble sockets and 19 to the bass/mid sockets, and of course if the speaker is three way you can tri-wire, say - 5 - 9 - 14. Then what ever residual advantage there is of doing it is yours as a reality instead of just buggering around with the LCR.

    I hope that explains it

  3. #3
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Berkshire

    Posts: 2,732
    I'm Paul.

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    Thanks for the information Ricard however I am now as confused as ever.

    The cables we were using for the test were QED 79 Strand and QED Bronze Anniversary. The 79 strand for the bass and Bronze for the treble.

    How was I lucky ? can you really damage amps if you are not lucky ?

    Paul.
    Streamer: NovaFidelity X40, Turntable: Rega RP3, Arm: Rega RB303, Cartridge: Audio Technica AT120E, Amp: Belles Aria, Loudspeakers: Quadral Aurum Montan VIII, Rack: Creaktiv Trend 1, Cables: Beresford, Chord, Coherent, MCRU, Rega, TCI.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Posts: 544

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    Quote Originally Posted by pjdowns View Post
    Thanks for the information Ricard however I am now as confused as ever.

    The cables we were using for the test were QED 79 Strand and QED Bronze Anniversary. The 79 strand for the bass and Bronze for the treble.

    How was I lucky ? can you really damage amps if you are not lucky ?

    Paul.
    You asked for an explanation, well I am afraid it has to be technical in nature. If you cannot understand the technicalities then ask questions about them. For example 79 strands of uninsulted cable behave electrically as one strand as they are in electrical contact (shorting), there are residual skin effects from multistrand, but that will just confuse you and should be left for another question. So in order to bi-wire you need to have electrical insulation between what ever is connected to the HF terminals and that on the LF terminals. If you try to seperate out the wires in the 79 strand you will just have the same as the wiring link, so you have to use two cables. The operative word in my post is 28 *insulated* solid cores, there is no electrical contact between them apart from at the wired ends. So in theory you could use it to wire 28 seperate loudspeaker drive units.
    Last edited by WikiBoy; 16-02-2008 at 23:23.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,457
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Paul,

    Richard has explained it very well. The only thing I would add is that the removal of the brass linking plates on the speaker terminals, when bi-wiring, would also have had an effect. Those things are terrible and always badly degrade the sound.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

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    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Witney Oxon

    Posts: 893
    I'm Martyn.

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    Single wired speakers with ordinary ( QED for instance ) is all you require. My single wired Harbeths, with 79 strand cable, are perfect...

  7. #7
    Join Date: May 2009

    Location: gone away

    Posts: 4,870
    I'm joe.

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    Good Lord! A five year old thread is resurrected!

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