It's this 'D.I.Y' lingo malarkey, Ali forgets he's not on the WD or audio talk forum
Marco.
It's this 'D.I.Y' lingo malarkey, Ali forgets he's not on the WD or audio talk forum
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Description here:
http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/audio/tqwt.htm
and a lovely variant here built by SteveTheShadow:
http://web.mac.com/scress1958/iWeb/S...e-Speaker.html
Last edited by shane; 03-11-2008 at 18:33.
Lovely looking system (in the last link) but how do you get decent bass out of those tiny little drivers?
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
I have often hankered after some do it yourself open baffles - my woodworking skills might be up to that.
There must be some plans on-line. And where in UK would I buy suitable drivers? Don't they have to have stiffer suspensions, 'cos there's no confined air to stiffen them up?
Brian
In Southampton: Raspberry Pi 4 running PiCorePlayer, Beresford Caiman SEG, Quad 77 Int Amp and CD Player, AVI Neutron 4, Sennheiser HD25 headphones.
In Nicosia: Small Format HTPC, Beresford 7520 ,Quad 405-2, Quart 980s German Tower Loudspeakers.
Hi Folks,
Just catching up here,sorry for the jargon,you're right I do forget some may not know what I'm burbling on about! As for Nick's open-baffles,the full-rangers are Fostex Fe 127 (I think?) and the bass drivers are Eminence Beta 15's which can be bought from Maplins.TQWT stands for tapered quarter-wave tube.Lots of good info here on DIY speakers- http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/
Hi Guys
The thing I would like to see dealt with is the need for kit to be warmed up, have to be run in for weeks or left on all the time to sound its best. I know some of this is controversial. Heck I was nearly put to death on another forum for suggesting(and only what I have heard ) that some kit needs to be left on for long periods of time. In this case it was Wadia, Marantz, Moon and Amr, but other kit exists which has this issue.
I would like to know why this happens ? I have never come across a sensible explanation. Either you get, its not real and its in your head or it happens and we don't know why. In a world were the cost of power is rising and excessive use is bad for the environment (lets not get into green issues, global warming etc) but good stewardship of our limited resources is something we should all aim for. So making kit which has long warm up is not a good thing.
So I would like to see kit that does not need ridiculous warm up. Also kit that can be upgraded. It makes sense to do this as it keeps resale value high and pride of ownership and keeps customers with your company but its also another good thing for the environment. I am strugling to remember the name of the company(guys who took over Audiolab) they did this, I know they failed but it was not for this reason.
Anyway thats what I would like, consistent performance got with no long warm up.
Surely someone has done research into this ? I have heard this, heck some of the kit I own suffers from this. I wish it didn't. I suppose being out of work now means that you become more conscious of the cost of things like electricity. It also means you don't have some kit left on because of the cost of doing so. Heck I wish this was not real.
Regards D S D L
Last edited by Spectral Morn; 29-12-2008 at 09:17.
Shian7
--------------------------------------------------------
Kudakutemo
kudakutemo
ari mizu-no tsuki
Though it be be broken -
broken again - still it's there:
the moon on the water.
- Choshu.
Location: Lancaster(-ish), UK
Posts: 16,936
I'm ChrisB.
Howard,
It's interesting that I stumble across this comment just a week after I bought something on Ebay that purports to do just as you describe.
I've got a bit of a thing for old receivers and bought a Yamaha CR-1020 last week for £52. Someone must have been really proud of this thing when they bought it new in 1977 or so. It's actually a rather lovely bit of kit.
It has a 10 position loudness control with No. 10 being a flat setting for normal listening, where you just use the volume control. Then when you need the loudness function, you dial in the level you want. I've not had a chance to listen carefully for whether it alters the tonal balance yet, but after a brief listen, it seems to do what it says it should.
Location: London
Posts: 2,410
I'm Nat-andthat'swhyIdrink.
I second that - I often listen at low levels and feel I'm missing some of the frequency range when there's no loudness control.
This could be incorporated into a room correction device (set-up could take a while! unless it was automatic, left playing through a frequency sweep CD whilst in-line and attenuating at different steps from full volume).
Tandberg also made big claims about their loudness controls on the 3002 and 3008 pre-amps. Meridian's 601 had a digital version too (didn't use it much because it kept making the digital level go into clipping which bugged me, even if it didn't make a sonic difference). I wonder how close they got.
The Tandberg one certainly sounded good.
Last edited by nat8808; 26-11-2008 at 18:17.