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Thread: Mod your Beresford 7520

  1. #1641
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 7,219
    I'm Rob.

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    [QUOTE=donington;152619]Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors
    QUOTE]

    Aren't these capacitors?
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  2. #1642
    leo's Avatar
    leo is offline Circuit Junkie & DIY Room Forum Leader
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Notts UK

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    Quote Originally Posted by donington View Post
    Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors in the beresford 7520 back in to see if it would help to rein in the harsh top end,i did the lm4562 mod which was a huge improvment but after over 2 months of use still had the same problem then i put the an826anz in which again was a worth while change but i still get some harsh treble but not as bad,what i need help with is getting the right resistors and were from.I want to try this before i change my speakers which i think could help they are the monitor audio br2 and with there metal tweeters might not be helping im a novice so please be gentle any help would be great regards keith
    100pf ceramic capacitors
    Cheers,
    Leo

  3. #1643
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: Grimsby, NE Lincs, UK

    Posts: 7

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    thanks i stand corrected i am a novice at this cheers keith
    Keith.

  4. #1644
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: Grimsby, NE Lincs, UK

    Posts: 7

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    just had a look and the 100pf ceramic capacitors dont look anything like those which were cut out?
    Keith.

  5. #1645
    leo's Avatar
    leo is offline Circuit Junkie & DIY Room Forum Leader
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    The small bead like yellow things seen in the pic here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3058

    Farnell do them, the legs may need forming into shape for the width of the holes http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcrr...00v/dp/1216416
    Cheers,
    Leo

  6. #1646
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: Grimsby, NE Lincs, UK

    Posts: 7

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    Thanks leo all sorted now thanks for the help
    Keith.

  7. #1647
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: London, UK

    Posts: 210
    I'm Rob.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanleyB View Post
    It would be helpful if you knew what you are considering doing, and whether you have your facts correct.

    As a guide:
    Murata Power Solutions’ 7805SR-C (5V output), 7812SR-C (12V output).

    Consult the Murata datasheet and make sure you know your 5V regulator from your 12V regulator. The 7812SR-C will not work below a 15V input level. So you would have to be in Caiman territory if you want to do this mod and spend that sort of money.

    A cheaper solution might have been the Leo mod, but I think he has put that aside due to the complexity of it and the certain electronics skill required. Any slip ups and it's good bye TC-7520.

    Stan
    Hi, can somebody clear some things for me, please?
    As beginner to the world of DIY Hifi, I have my 7520 which is only upgraded with Wolfson WM8716 chip only and I use it in passive mod/e. I am not bothered with opamps any more after hearing passive mod.

    Questions:
    1. Do I need 15v power supply now when I have upgraded to Wolfson chip? (although it works with 12V supply)
    2. As I plan to upgrade to Murata regs (from above) do I need to change my power supply to 15volts? Will the DAC work?
    3. I do use passive mod, hence do I have to upgrade both murata's 5v and 12v or only 12 volts??? (I mabye plan to obtain new Gator board in future)
    4. If I upgrade all other capacitors to Elna II, will my 7520 become Caiman (just in passive mode), or is there anything else to upgrade?

    Thanks for your responses, all the threads are looong reading and it can be very hard to find all the info.
    Rob

  8. #1648
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

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    If you intend to do the passive mod, then you only need to upgrade the 5V regulator. You would still need something like the Caiman 15V PSU to correctly power the Murata reg though. And the 10R resistor behind the existing 5V reg should be replaced with a wire link.

  9. #1649
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 10,638
    I'm Gary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanleyB View Post
    If you intend to do the passive mod, then you only need to upgrade the 5V regulator. You would still need something like the Caiman 15V PSU to correctly power the Murata reg though. And the 10R resistor behind the existing 5V reg should be replaced with a wire link.
    Oh, haven't done that one.
    How did I miss that?

    Any posts deal with this one Stan?
    *I'm running passive mod (no board) with 2 Mutara's and Maplins CBR Linear PSU

    Is there any issue with this wire link if I was running 2 film caps, like the ClarityCap ESA's?
    Also, if I replace the big black resevoir cap with, say, 2 film caps in parallel or whatever, any issue there?

    Whats the advantages of the Wire link mod? Defo worth doing?



    ta.
    Ok with not having it on Betamax nowadays

  10. #1650
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

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    What's that commercial again ? 'Just do it'.
    If I had to explain every technical detail behind some of some mods, my competitors would be able to build their DACs even better .

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