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Thread: Expensive CD players - worth it?

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,946
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    A good EE can fix most stuff, and I know a few; not that I need one, as the Sony has performed faultlessly for the 20 years I've had it, and it was second-hand when I bought it! You can't beat bombproof engineering

    However, I agree with your basic point. The days of great CDPs (new) are over, and have been for some time.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,619
    I'm Steve.

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    Hmm, a lot more to CD players than I thought... Marco, I take your point about many of the more expensive players having better build quality. Just how much effect that will have on sound quality will no doubt be measurable, but whether that difference is audible will be up to the user. You can tell with your bat's ears, but probably not me.

    Of course nothing lasts for ever, so it would be up to the individual user to decide whether the nth degree of sound improvement is worth the potential future pain of expensive parts being scarce or even impossible to find.

    I suppose my question should have been: should I get the competent and relatively low cost Marantz player fixed, or get the Densen (which to be fair uses a readily available and inexpensive Sony laser mechanism) repaired.

    Sod it, I'll get them both fixed, so I then have a spare player. And maybe with further plays the Densen will reveal why it should cost six times that of the Marantz.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  3. #13
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,946
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    I don't think the Densen, although a good player, is sufficiently special to show up the difference of what's possible. Therefore, I'd choose the player you like the look of the most and use that

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 38,038
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Most CD players, even some of the most expensive will use a fairly basic Philips laser mechanism. If you want the best find a player that uses a laser disc reader designed for CD juke boxes. They were designed to be in use for hours at a time, and hence are robust enough to have long-term reliability.

    I forget the type number of the reader, save to say my Levinson ML 390 player uses the same.

    After that it is all down to the electronics: how much oversampling is done; the size of the buffer and speed of input/output. That is what makes the biggest difference to the sound quality; and as others have said, the technology has probably already reached optimum quality.


    I've just checked - the Levinson ML 390 uses a Philips CD12 IND disc reader, having a substantial die-cast chassis, metal swing arm guide rails and glass (not plastic) lenses. It was designed to be used in CD juke boxes amongst others.
    Last edited by Barry; 15-10-2026 at 11:44. Reason: Additional information.
    Barry

  5. #15
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: South Beds, UK

    Posts: 4,817
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    Hmm, a lot more to CD players than I thought... Marco, I take your point about many of the more expensive players having better build quality. Just how much effect that will have on sound quality will no doubt be measurable, but whether that difference is audible will be up to the user. You can tell with your bat's ears, but probably not me.

    Of course nothing lasts for ever, so it would be up to the individual user to decide whether the nth degree of sound improvement is worth the potential future pain of expensive parts being scarce or even impossible to find.

    I suppose my question should have been: should I get the competent and relatively low cost Marantz player fixed, or get the Densen (which to be fair uses a readily available and inexpensive Sony laser mechanism) repaired.

    Sod it, I'll get them both fixed, so I then have a spare player. And maybe with further plays the Densen will reveal why it should cost six times that of the Marantz.
    I inhabit very much the mid-fi habitat and find that the few hundred quid I pay for anything can bring large differences in SQ. My CDP of choice at the moment is a mid range, mid 90's Sony ES. It is built like a tank, is a joy to use and, to my ageing ears, sounds lovely.

    The very large upside to mid range ES kit of this era is that it uses the cheap, ubiquitous KSS-213B Mech, so is easy to repair should it ever go wrong, and I don't imagine it will. If I were looking for a new CDP now, that is where I would be putting my money.
    He with least money has most to sell

  6. #16
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,946
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    Most CD players, even some of the most expensive will use a fairly basic Philips laser mechanism. If you want the best find a player that uses a laser disc reader designed for CD juke boxes. They were designed to be in use for hours at a time, and hence are robust enough to have long-term reliability.

    I forget the type number of the reader, save to say my Levinson ML 390 player uses the same.

    After that it is all down to the electronics: how much oversampling is done; the size of the buffer and speed of input/output. That is what makes the biggest difference to the sound quality; and as others have said, the technology has probably already reached optimum quality.
    PSU arrangements also make a big difference, Barry, with the very best CDPs having dedicated (over-specced) linear ones for different parts of the circuit, reducing noise, and also where the detrimental effects of vibration (a big issue with CDPs) has been addressed.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,619
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    A good EE can fix most stuff, and I know a few; not that I need one, as the Sony has performed faultlessly for the 20 years I've had it, and it was second-hand when I bought it! You can't beat bombproof engineering

    However, I agree with your basic point. The days of great CDPs (new) are over, and have been for some time.

    Marco.
    Is that Martin's basic point? Have you seen or heard his CDT? It's all you could ever need imo, complete with the peace of mind that brand new (hopefully) brings. I have no plans to spend big on a player, but if I was, that's where my money would be going. Because regardless of how good your EE is, he can't fabricate a replacement for an obsolete mechanism from nothing.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  8. #18
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,946
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    No, that's true, but he (or she) can replace like for like components, such as caps and resistors of the same value, which is often what needs replacing. As I said, I've had my Sony now for 20 years, and it continues to perform faultlessly to this day. The 'battleship' CDPs of old tend to last, IME.

    No, I haven't heard Martin's CDP, but have no reason to assume it's not excellent. The point I was making, and I think Martin was too, was that hi-end CDPs of today are mostly built from cheap parts, so there's no point in buying one, unless the badge attracts, whereas 20 years ago, you got what you were paying for; where it matters, under the hood!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,619
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Fair point. On a related note, I've just stuck a CD on, and the bloody Densen is skipping already! So it looks like I will be vinyl-only until I get off my arse and have these players seen to.

    I had noticed though, that the familiar-to-me Cranberries CD sounds rather hot in the higher frequencies (and not in a good way), compared to how I remember the Marantz being last week...
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  10. #20
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 43,561
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    I suppose my question should have been: should I get the competent and relatively low cost Marantz player fixed, or get the Densen (which to be fair uses a readily available and inexpensive Sony laser mechanism) repaired.

    Sod it, I'll get them both fixed, so I then have a spare player. And maybe with further plays the Densen will reveal why it should cost six times that of the Marantz.
    The problem with your Marantz is just the draw playing up? If so it's probably just needing a new belt. Sometimes the cogs fail but you can get replacements for those too now. So should be a cheap fix, just the cost of the belt (about a fiver) if you're up to doing it yourself.

    Densen's always been one of those brands to me which charge a lot for something that's nothing special in a fancy case. That's true of pretty much any CD player from the boutique brands.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > Troels Gravesen Faital 3WC-15.

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