Open invitation to contribute to a general Library article on refurbishment

[spendorman]

Many of the pictures of the 1700 show peeling veneer on the end caps, seems a common thing.

[The Grand Wazoo]

Barry, I think your idea is a good one. It looks like the suggestions are appearing here though - you/we may have to convert them into a digest or something.

A guide on what not to use on what is just as valuable too, I'd say.
I've got a big thing against the use of cleaning products with silicon in them, because the silicon 'creeps' far beyond the surface you spread it on & I think it must compromise the quality of connections.

[spendorman]

Barry, I think your idea is a good one. It looks like the suggestions are appearing here though - you/we may have to convert them into a digest or something.

A guide on what not to use on what is just as valuable too, I'd say.
I've got a big thing against the use of cleaning products with silicon in them, because the silicon 'creeps' far beyond the surface you spread it on & I think it must compromise the quality of connections.

My pedantic mode is on: 'Silicone' is probably what is meant.

[Rare Bird]

André and Chris, you are both pretty knowledgeable about wood so I'm sure you will have some ideas and suggestions.

Teak is an highly resinous wood that only requires an oil to nourish..a hell of a lot of furnature in the 60's was made from teak as was most quality hifi speaker cabinets & amplifier sleeves etc.Manufacturers tend just to give it a quick coat of laquer for a nice semi gloss sheen in which the wood doesnt actually like hence may look like its slighly blistering long term in some cases,especially if it's been exposed to sunlight a lot..of course an oil would only give you matt finish thats open to dirt which is not too brainy.. i used to use a medium build microporous clear finish by Sikkens called 'Cetol TS Interiour' on Teak, my oak furnature is actually all finished in this & would not use anything else, it's a brilliant spray gun type finish, being microporous it lets the wood breathe aswell (no blistering)..

Of course Teak is very expensive & hard to get now in bulk & i'm safe in saying the nearest hardwood to use in its place would probably be iroko (Iroko dust is a killer btw, so use a mask if you ever work with it) you used to see iroko a lot of chemistry lab technicians work benches as it's very hard wearing like teak & takes a lot of chemical spillage etc.. ...A simular looking wood to teak in the 60's/ early '70's, also used in furniture was Afromosia, i think this was the wood originally used on the LP12 surround..

Just bear a thought for the sheer amount of teak that went through London North Eastern Railway works for the construction of Gresley coaches

http://www.lnerca.org/photoalbums/gr...la2005/643.htm

[Techno Commander]

I use anti static foaming cleaner on metal case work. It is excellent for removing the greasy marks made by years of "knob twiddling and button pushing".

[spendorman]

I use anti static foaming cleaner on metal case work. It is excellent for removing the greasy marks made by years of "knob twiddling and button pushing".

I used that many years ago, got it from RS Components, was very good as you say.

[Beobloke]

Andy - Do CIF make a spray or foam product? The standard CIF cream is not really suitable as it is too abrasive and can leave a powdery residue.

They do make several spray cleaners but CIF itself is not abrasive. It was actually originally developed (as JIF) as an antidote to the likes of Ajax, which most certainly was!

http://www.unilever.co.uk/brands/hom...rands/cif.aspx

[Barry]

They do make several spray cleaners but CIF itself is not abrasive. It was actually originally developed (as JIF) as an antidote to the likes of Ajax, which most certainly was!

http://www.unilever.co.uk/brands/hom...rands/cif.aspx

Believe you me, CIF cream contains (or used to contain) a very fine abrasive powder: the manufacturers advised against using it on plastic baths. If not completely washed away the reidue could be seen.

They could well have changed the formulation these days.

Regards

[Barry]

Looking nice and sounding nice are two separate things.

Sadly though writing about anything these days can mean that its S/H value may go up (good for the seller bad for the buyer). Good example is the Technics 9600 tuner that HiFi World wrote about recently, these were selling for about the £100 to £150 mark before the write up, now the last ones on Ebay went for £180 and £257 Is it worth this kind of money....hard to say. I have yet to get one but won't be doing so at that sort of money.

Should we not write about kit in case this happens ? I would say no as old forgotten kit makes for interesting articles and discoveries. However for the vintage newbie and collector alike it does raise the bar for being able to buy these items However trends come and go and the S/H prices will probably go down a bit as has happened recently with some Leak Trough-Line tuners on Ebay.

Regards D S D L

I can't imagine anything that I might have to say about a particular component would affect eBay prices!

Should I not comment on the sound of the B&O 1700? Pity, as I've just hooked it up and tuned it in. Sounds rather good - first impressions only, but it has a very slightly warm but sweet sound; laying somewhere between the Leak Troughline Stereo and The Quad FM3.

Regards

[spendorman]

Should I not comment on the sound of the B&O 1700? Pity, as I've just hooked it up and tuned it in. Sounds rather good - first impressions only, but it has a very slightly warm but sweet sound; laying somewhere between the Leak Troughline Stereo and The Quad FM3.

Regards

Not bad to sound like that. My friend likes his 1700 tuner very much, described the sound of the 1700 amplifier as sweet himself.