Fabulous arm ' so how would you describe the differences from the 309 ?
Yes get some isonoes they also look great ! .
Fabulous arm ' so how would you describe the differences from the 309 ?
Yes get some isonoes they also look great ! .
Chris
We've gone on holiday by mistake !
Second the Isonoe Tweak.
System; Michell Gyrodec SE/ Orbe Clamp/ Gert Pedersen armboard mod/ HR PSU/ SME V / J7 Tonearm cable/Ortofon Cadenza Black// Jez Arkless Turbo nutter B------ /Trichord Dino+
Amplification and loudspeaker set up is at the moment being split into two groups, comprising the following;
1. Same sources as above; SONY TAF-770ES/SONY CDP761E/Cable Talk 3.1 loudspeakercable/ Harbeth Compact7ES2/ Stands
2. Virtue Audio Sensation M451battery PSU, ClarityCaps upgrade/ Sensation M901/Russian PIO caps with Teflon bypass caps upgrade/ JT Dynamic PSU with various tweaks/ Connex Audio 5N Litz loudspeaker cable, Impulse H6 Loudspeakers.
Me so horny- Impulse H6 Horny
Hi Andy,
You have a PM
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Obvious to me were more extended highs and a bit more natural sounding. Deeper more powerful bass, but also better defined.
Don't have any damping fluid at this point, so I will have to try that later.
I also need a headshell-cartridge spacer, because I cannot lower the arm enough to get the VTA I want, (almost but not quite).
Hearing is believing
SL-1210 Mk5 w/Mike New Platter/bearing/armboard; Hynes SR5 DIY PSU;
Zyx Airy3X; SME V; Hashimoto HM7 SUT; CJ PR15MkII Phono w/teflon caps.
Modwright LS36.5 Dual Mono Preamp & KWA 150 amp > Paradigm Ref 100 v.4s
Instead of removing the bearing bridge as discussed previously, would slackening off the fixing bolts a tad do the same, or even fitting small thin nylon washers between the parts help I wonder?
I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?