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Thread: Car (or bike) Chat!

  1. #3701
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,498
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    But driving is fun (or should be if your car is)! Take her out for a blast and boogie to some bangin' choons...

    What isn't fun is sitting revving an engine for 20 mins lol, and it's not very good for the environment either...

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  2. #3702
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 37,710
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    "and it's not very good for the environment either..."

    How so?, the rpm would have been about the same. And driving in the rain is not fum to my way of thinking. If it's fine tomorrow I may take it out for a spin.
    Barry

  3. #3703
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,498
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Leaving the environmental issue aside for a moment:

    https://www.quora.com/What-bad-can-c...vving-it-a-lot

    If you're sitting revving your engine (under no load) for 20 mins, at similar RPMs to those achieved when driving at, say, 50-60mph down a dual-carriageway, then that is fundamentally NOT good for the engine, mate

    Rain or no rain, next time drive it!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  4. #3704
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,305
    I'm Steve.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    But driving is fun (or should be if your car is)! Take her out for a blast and boogie to some bangin' choons...

    What isn't fun is sitting revving an engine for 20 mins lol, and it's not very good for the environment either...

    Marco.
    Having your car ticking over for 20 minutes isn't very good for your own environment, taking it for a spin is worse for every bugger else's environment. Having said that, a car is more than just an engine, the suspension, brakes, coolant system etc all need to be "worked". Even one lap of the block is better than nothing

    I agree that driving ought to be fun, but there isn't much of that to be had at the moment, what with the Covid travel restrictions. Just driving local is shit.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


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  5. #3705
    Join Date: Feb 2019

    Location: South uk

    Posts: 594
    I'm Jon.

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    Revving an engine at anything over fast idle is pointless to top up a battery, it’ll make zero difference.
    Alternators are regulated in output, so leaving it at idle compared to revving the engine is pretty much the same result.
    Obviously if ones car has been sat for a while, then taking it for a spin is far more beneficial.
    I’m failing a few cars for seized brake calipers/pads and warped discs (due to corrosion) because the cars have been sat for nearly a year.
    Just a few miles a week would have prevented that happening, and kept the battery topped up.

  6. #3706
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,305
    I'm Steve.

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    How you going on with the KTM Jon? You managing to give it any exercise? It's pretty bad round here, apparently coppers have been using ANPR to check if people out on the road are local
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  7. #3707
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 98,920
    I'm Grant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    How you going on with the KTM Jon? You managing to give it any exercise? It's pretty bad round here, apparently coppers have been using ANPR to check if people out on the road are local
    Can still go a fair way local here. I usually give mine half an hr run twice a week. Even then you hear the discs for first half mile or so.
    Regards,
    Grant .... ؠ ......Don't be such a big girl's blouse

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  8. #3708
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,498
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    Having your car ticking over for 20 minutes isn't very good for your own environment, taking it for a spin is worse for every bugger else's environment. Having said that, a car is more than just an engine, the suspension, brakes, coolant system etc all need to be "worked". Even one lap of the block is better than nothing

    I agree that driving ought to be fun, but there isn't much of that to be had at the moment, what with the Covid travel restrictions. Just driving local is shit.
    Indeed, but I'd argue more fun that sitting revving the engine for 20 mins, while twiddling your thumbs (or something else, which may help relieve the monotony))

    Plus it depends on the roads you have access to in your local area.

    I've got a largely empty dual carriageway (A483), with a 70mph speed limit, less than 5 mins from my door, so taking the Brabster for a blast along that, to keep the engine, battery and car in good fettle, for me would be far preferable to the former, and which as Jon has eloquently stated, does next to hee-haw good.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  9. #3709
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Location: Hampshire, UK

    Posts: 3,689
    I'm Adam.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Leaving the environmental issue aside for a moment:

    https://www.quora.com/What-bad-can-c...vving-it-a-lot

    If you're sitting revving your engine (under no load) for 20 mins, at similar RPMs to those achieved when driving at, say, 50-60mph down a dual-carriageway, then that is fundamentally NOT good for the engine, mate

    Rain or no rain, next time drive it!

    Marco.
    Regardless of whether it’s good for the car or the environment, I would have thought that the biggest issue would be that sitting revving a car IN A GARAGE wouldn’t be good for me! [emoji15]
    Engineers: fixing problems you didn't know you had in ways you don't understand.

  10. #3710
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,498
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by InThe Sticks View Post
    Revving an engine at anything over fast idle is pointless to top up a battery, it’ll make zero difference.
    Alternators are regulated in output, so leaving it at idle compared to revving the engine is pretty much the same result.
    Obviously if ones car has been sat for a while, then taking it for a spin is far more beneficial.
    I’m failing a few cars for seized brake calipers/pads and warped discs (due to corrosion) because the cars have been sat for nearly a year.
    Just a few miles a week would have prevented that happening, and kept the battery topped up.
    Spot on

    Where the bloody hell have you been, mate? Hope all is well in your world

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

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