Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
Things have been moving along and the amplifiers are starting to take shape
I had my niece and her boy friend around and it has been a week of live music over here from them playing guitar in my living room to the Chester cathedral organ and quire and few live gigs in Liverpool pubs
File size is to large to post those here I may get around it same time
https://rikyandthekids.bandcamp.com/album/lets-rumble
This is a link to Riky (Riccardo) Latest CD hope you like it ( I certainly do)
DSCF2263.jpgInput boards ,speaker protection and soft start board
DSCF2264.jpgDSCF2265.jpg First lay out of Paul's amplifiers
DSCF2266.jpg Martin has been around as well and started soldering the components to his boards so the build of the 100W turbo has started
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
It is a slow process but we are learning the 100 ways that do not work
Copper bar is lovely (not) to work whit and take a rustic look if you touch it so I have been finding the wrong way to do electroplating at home there is a fair bit to do but I think I have cracked it. (Clean clean clean and clean)
Then there is the lay out to be considered
Any way same more porn for you in the pictures
100 W build sink bottom view whit fans
DSCF2267.jpg
One way to go may need different base plate
DSCF2268.jpg
Capacitors stick out this way
DSCF2269.jpg
and this is another way
DSCF2270.jpg
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
PS you may noticed the different tint of the cooper plating bars
The one whit no resistors is the last one I did and probably the best of the lot
that was after cleaning the lot whit same alkaline gigamagic one keep in the kitchen (oven cleaner) and new sponges.
Easy enough to start again and make the lot much better
+ we have found a source for better and more color-full potions (not royal WE this is DIY collaboration and Jobs are delegated around)
I may delegate the plating process once it has decent standard
at present I am using a Stainless steel wand whit 2 1.5 V batteries
As soon as we get the new staff I will post
About the resistors both on the boards (1R X2) and on the CRC (0.47 R X6) I am using Fucushima Futaba MPC 71and MPC 74
Capacitors: at the moment the white ones are PEH 200 10mF
On the 100 W build we are looking at getting a ridiculous amount of Beer Can sized dudas probably in CRCRC
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
While Martin is soldering it's own board's and doing same home work (read the Pass Write up willya)
I am making progress whit the lay out
DSCF2271.jpg
Front view Traffo not to scale
DSCF2272.jpg
Top view Caps are on the way so for now same small bear cans it will have 3 X 47mF PEH200 in CRCRC or CRCC or maybe CRCLC CCRC or CLCRC please vote for your fav! yup 12 total
DSCF2273.jpg
Back view whit input board on heat sink again maybe
DSCF2274.jpgDSCF2275.jpg
And the 2 sides
One may have noticed the space under the sinks ? more about that later
beer can markers, I love that.
Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
Warning Maths In this post !!!
Assume 100 W nominal
Assume 35V rails
Assume 1 A Bias on each output duda 35X1 + W each duda is loaded at 35 W max may be as hi as 50 W = 1.4 A
Class A idle current on each rail 4 A X 35 V =140 W in heath that has to be dissipated on each heath sink .
Total energy saving 560 W You can certainly switch off a decent sized radiator in the listening room and use your FiFi instead a much greener approach would be to turn off the central heating completely and just stay in the listening room all the time
To improve on the efficiency and give you even more savings lets puts same fans on the sinks so that cold air go in from the bottom and pop out from the top much warmer as the music (or the absence of it ) will do that for you free of charge (Actually is a bit more than that as Gas is more expensive)
Bottom and side view of the 2 cheap fans they spec at 25 dB noise and should be running at less than 1/2 voltage As fitted there will be a sheet of acrylic bolted to the bottom of the sinks whit holes for the fans and the beer cans, sorry meant capacitors, so to hold those in place
DSCF2276.jpgDSCF2277.jpg
As fitted there will be a sheet of acrylic bolted to the bottom of the sinks whit holes for the fans and the beer cans, sorry meant capacitors, so to hold those in place
DSCF2278.jpg
As fitted the 2 circuit boards whit the 4 dudas on the low side diodes on top
DSCF2279.jpg
The amplifier will be on Class A till when one side turns on so much that the other side turn off the.
To do that one need 8 A assuming a standard 8 Homes speaker 8 x 8=64W
assuming a standard 4 Homes speaker 8 x 4 =36W
assuming one has a pair of isobaric 8 X whatever one fill like = not enough data
As the F5 will clip at about 2 volts from the rails assume 32 V swing up or down or better in and out (that is how a speaker move yes?)
Remember this ?
V
A R
W = A X V or V/R X V = 128 W if we where talking about DC instead of AC and considering the out part instead of in out in out that the cones do plus the fact that FiFi manufacturer's have a certain standard to measure amplifier's output power so that they can be pretty vague....
Is any one able to give me a figure please ?
Double that for 4 Homes and take a pinch of salt if you have a pair of Isobaric
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
Big day tomorrow
smoke test
The 50 W may well be a 3 box duda whit transformers soft start and the first bunch of capacitors then 2 cables to carry the DC to the mono-blocks
For now all is open air and whit a spare transformer because the Toroidy have not arrived
DSCF2285.jpg
I will be keeping this switched on for a while and increase the voltage to re form the capacitors
Must say well pleased whit the soft start as it worked from Go NO SMOKE
One channel heath sinks whit the transistors bolted down
DSCF2281.jpg
More or less this is one of the 50 W mono blocks
DSCF2284.jpg
They will be as small as possible and will be placed behind the speakers
Each will have another 50000uF on each rail and speaker protection
The input / Bias board of the F5 Turbo
DSCF2283.jpg
Just a few wires to solder and then I can start setting the Bias
May get a few tunes out of it by evening.
Good luck
Kuzma Stabi/S 12", (LP12-bastard) DC motor and optical tacho psu, Benz LP, Paradise (phonostage). MB-Pro, Brooklyn dac and psu, Bruno Putzeys balanced pre, mod86p dual mono amps, Yamaha NS1000m
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 766
I'm Sandro.
Tanks Simon
We are listening to it as I type this
Hfidog and pc141263 are here
I am so pissed off …
Bias set at 250 mV across the 0.5 R bias resistors sinks at 32 C and it sound bloody better than mine.
Pictures later