I guess that it depends on how you use magazine reviews, and magazines in general, Neil.
When I used to use them as part of the process of choosing the equipment I bought (those days are largely now long gone), all I wanted to know, with the minimum amount of 'waffle' and/or technical jargon, was whether the product(s) concerned were worth auditioning at my local dealer.
Therefore a well-written 'snapshot' of what it was capable of, sonically, was enough for me to put it on my shortlist, or not, as the case may have been. The finer points of what it was sonically capable of, which you're alluding to, I would discover with my
own ears later, when listening to the equipment in question.
I simply get turned off and become bored reading excessive 'froth' (the definition of which I agree is entirely subjective), unless the review in question is written by someone I respect and whose opinion I generally agree with and can relate to in some way. That's just me, though. You're obviously different, which of course is fine!
Marco.