Posts: 44
DaveK.
My System:
Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.
Posts: 44
I'm absolutely baffled by your ignorance to, or unwillingness to recognize, your hypocrisy here. I try to make a legitimate suggestion to alleviate that user's problem and you reply to me to make a sarcastic comment about how you don't think my post is constructive enough? Just astounding.
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 8
DaveC, I wouldn't say your post is very contructive at all...pot calling kettle?
Byron
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________
System (for now): Clearaudio emotion/Dynavector 17d3, ARC PH3SE, Music Angel (Marantz 7C clone) pre, DIY 3886-based Gainclone, Harbeth C7-ES3
Last edited by DaveK; 18-07-2009 at 15:15. Reason: further thoughts
DaveK.
My System:
Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.
Hi Hugh,
Do you think there could be a clue here:
Maybe Byron needs to use a longer than normal Toslink cable, which isn't ideal? I think it was your somewhat curt reply (and stating of the obvious), rather than perhaps giving more thoughtful advice, that prompted Dave's response. I don't think you're doing it on purpose now (since you've been warned), but you do have a rather unfortunate way of expressing yourself sometimes.In any case, I may try moving the computer closer and see if that has any effect.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 8
ok...reset - I didn't mean to spark discord
Anyway, to clarify, I am using a long TOSLink cable right now, and I think perhaps this may be an issue..but the problem has really been amplified since I did this mod, although it already existed to some extent previous to that...I never noticed the problem with the 7510 however...
Regards,
Byron
Byron
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________
System (for now): Clearaudio emotion/Dynavector 17d3, ARC PH3SE, Music Angel (Marantz 7C clone) pre, DIY 3886-based Gainclone, Harbeth C7-ES3
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 8
hmm..
so the popping did not goaway, and now there is also a loud hissing noise out of the right channel when there is no signal going to the DAC...I hope I didn't fry my tc7520!
b
Byron
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________
System (for now): Clearaudio emotion/Dynavector 17d3, ARC PH3SE, Music Angel (Marantz 7C clone) pre, DIY 3886-based Gainclone, Harbeth C7-ES3
Is the popping sound from playback via the PC, or is it also from a CD player?
If it is from the PC I remember someone mentioning that the volume level in the audio mixer panel in Windows should be set to something less than 100%.
The noise could be from a suspect opamp. If you rolled opamps, go back to the originals and see if the noise is still there, or if it has gone.
Stan
Website: http://www.homehifi.co.uk
Website: http://www.beresford.me
Website: http://www.homehifi.asia
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 8
problem solved...partly because one of the caps i clipped was resting underneath the PCB and (possibly) shorting something...partly because the TOSLink cable was really not making a good connection. Took it apart, cleaned it up, put it back and in a better spot, and all is well
regards,
byron
Byron
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________
System (for now): Clearaudio emotion/Dynavector 17d3, ARC PH3SE, Music Angel (Marantz 7C clone) pre, DIY 3886-based Gainclone, Harbeth C7-ES3