Which Tannoys, folks?

[dantheman91]

Nice one, Dan - much appreciated... I'll add it to my collection

As everyone can see, the 66s, on paper, are rather impressive, and I can confirm that when you hear them, on the end of a good system, that impressiveness is even more impressive!

A very nice alternative to 15" MGs (or any Tannoy DCs), yes indeedy.....





Marco.

Hi

No Problem. I love advertisements like this. I am still listening to my ditton 44's they just don't make them like they used to the craftsmanship and engineering thats for the time is outstanding there built to last no like today's. Some people slate the 44's but at the end of the day the play music simple as.

[Marco]

Coolio!

Paul, sorry about the thread drift!

Marco.

[Rare Bird]

Don't worry

[walpurgis]

Hi

any axis responce for the ditton 44's

I can give you scans of the Ditton 44 brochure.

Just deposit £120 into my PayPal account. (JOKING!)

You are welcome if you want them really.

[dantheman91]

I can give you scans of the Ditton 44 brochure.

Just deposit £120 into my PayPal account. (JOKING!)

You are welcome if you want them really.

Hi

Yes Please

[Reffc]

Right folks, to get things back on track nudge nudge


Have ordered a set of these for each cabinet:



CMC pure OFC silver plated binding posts....yum.


Have decided to keep the standard cross-over but just replace the caps with a like for like value polypropylene cap replacement.

Any suggestions for the best without breaking the bank? Hovland, Jensen, budget ones? I won't risk lifting the original solder tracks as they're not really designed for re-soldering too many times so instead plan to snip the existing capacitor legs leaving a stub which I'll clean up with emery then solder the new capacitor legs to these using crocodile clips to hold the two together and act as a heat sink.

[Ali Tait]

Clarity Cap are good imho and not pricey.

[Marco]

Hi Paul,

I use Clarity Cap MRs in mine, with excellent results (just depends if you can get the right values, though). Also many people modifying Tannoy crossovers have had excellent results with the Ansar 'Glasshouse' types:

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/ansar.html or here: http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.co...me.php?cat=155

Superb sound, and don't break the bank either! They also look a little more 'vintage' than others

Marco.

[Reffc]

Thanks guys, I'll check out which ones I need although I'm told that the large one near the inductor is in a rating no longer available, so I may have to wire two or three in parallel to get the right overall value (by summing the collective capacitance values of each). Looking at using polys, and in addition to the above, was told to check ouy the CPC caps (part of Farnell)

[Reffc]

Some preogress today.

Drivers removed and cones/cage cleaned up, then carefully packaged ready for Lockwoods.

Crossovers removed and 4 pin plug for connection to the drive units. It seems Tannoy have used 0.5mm diameter copper lighting flex (twin and earth) for the speaker connections! Copper by pins was corroded as were pins so all that will be binned and pins cleaned up. Nothing wrong per se in using twin and earth providing its 1.5mm OFC or tinned copper. I'd rather have speaker cable such as the Van Damme Blue series, but my local DIY store sells 1.5mm OFC twin and earth and tinned cables, so I'll replace the lighting flex with something more substantial.


Next was the crossovers which looked to be in good shape. Caps all look ok with no leaks etc but would benefit from change. One thing that stood out was the flimsy wiring from the poor quality speaker binding posts to the PCB, so this was de-soldered:



and replaced with some 2.5mm section Talk 3 cable. The Talk 3 is the Red/White cable. The original wiring is Blue/Brown and looks to be some snipped off lengths of twin and earth (0.5mm):



I haven't yet worked out how to get the cross-over chassis apart without de-soldering the inductors, which is a real pain. In theory, I could simply remove the existing caps and if very dexterous and careful may be able to solder in some new ones, but looks too fiddly without taking the chassis apart (inductor plastic housings are glued to the top half of the chassis whilst their wiring is soldered into the bottom half consisting of the PCB).

Perhaps its me being thick and someone can show me an easier way to do this! Also, I'm having trouble reading the capacitor values. Anyone got a circuit diagram with the values marked on it? (315/8 HPD crossover)