+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 30

Thread: Expensive CD players - worth it?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,619
    I'm Steve.

    Default Expensive CD players - worth it?

    My Marantz CD6006 (UK edition) has been a bit of a dick lately, drawer refusing to open, opening and immediately closing, closing and immediately opening again, and now skipping like mad towards the end of discs.

    So I'm going to take it to be repaired (probably Mike Powell at Bolton). I took it off the shelf, and just for the hell of it decided to put in my temperamental Densen Beat B-400 Plus. Which, for the moment, is surprising me by actually working

    But what also surprised me was that I could hear no difference in sound between this and the Marantz player. The Densen retailed for £1400 in 2003 (about £2800 in today's money), compared to £350 for the Marantz. Don't get me wrong, I'm just glad the bloody thing is working, but surely that 8x the cost should bring some kind of improvement...

    So when it comes to CD players, what does your extra outlay really get you?
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,700
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    So when it comes to CD players, what does your extra outlay really get you?
    Probably less and less. I'm sure the law of diminishing returns applies massively.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  3. #3
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,619
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Probably less and less. I'm sure the law of diminishing returns applies massively.
    Certainly looks that way with CD players. £200 amp vs. £2k amp, big difference. £200 CDP vs. £2k, not so much. Maybe a quicker opening/closing drawer? My Densen certainly does that. And it does have a visual symmetry, which appeals to me.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  4. #4
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 7,497
    I'm Lawrence.

    Default

    If you're plugging them in to your Matsui mini system maybe it's just not resolving enough to hear the difference?

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,619
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Matsui broken. It blew off the shelf in a strong draught But I've since upgraded to Alba. Onwards and upwards
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 7,497
    I'm Lawrence.

    Default

    Is it one of these? You could sell it to a hipster for a few ponies.

  7. #7
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 19,619
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence001 View Post
    Is it one of these? You could sell it to a hipster for a few ponies.
    Hard to tell from that pic - Ours has genuine wood-look formica top plate, not the cheap crap iron-on stuff.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: KEF Reference 3, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Arcam A75 integrated, Monitor Audio R852 MD speakers
    A/V:
    LG OLED65 G56LS, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL T9i sub.


    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 43,561
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    My Marantz CD6006 (UK edition) has been a bit of a dick lately, drawer refusing to open, opening and immediately closing, closing and immediately opening again, and now skipping like mad towards the end of discs.

    So I'm going to take it to be repaired (probably Mike Powell at Bolton). I took it off the shelf, and just for the hell of it decided to put in my temperamental Densen Beat B-400 Plus. Which, for the moment, is surprising me by actually working

    But what also surprised me was that I could hear no difference in sound between this and the Marantz player. The Densen retailed for £1400 in 2003 (about £2800 in today's money), compared to £350 for the Marantz. Don't get me wrong, I'm just glad the bloody thing is working, but surely that 8x the cost should bring some kind of improvement...

    So when it comes to CD players, what does your extra outlay really get you?
    Since it looks like you've not had a proper answer to this question I'll have a go.

    Differences in CD Players:

    Frequency response - not all players have a flat frequency response. Mostly the difference is very small, maybe 0.1 to 0.5dB, but across a wide bandwidth this can be audible.

    Output voltage - CD Redbook states 2.0 Volts as the standard for single ended output but many players have lower, or higher output voltage. For the same position on the volume dial one player can sound louder (and therefore 'better') than another. Even a very small difference in output level can do that, even though our impression is that the volume level seems to be the same.

    What do expensive players offer? Well, what should they offer?

    Better build quality, longer lifespan, better ergonomics, better ability to read damaged discs without skipping or drop outs.

    Is this always the case? No. Some expensive players use cheap slot loading drives. Sound quality will be fine but other parameters may not be.

    Will a cheap player offer the same sound quality as a really expensive one? Bearing in mind the exceptions and variables mentioned above, and generally speaking, yes it will.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > Troels Gravesen Faital 3WC-15.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,946
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Some valid points, but I disagree with your conclusion, based on experience. It doesn't take into consideration the effect of transport mechs, engineering and PSU arrangements, all of which cost money and the best examples of that are generally found on more expensive players.

    It's not a given though, especially among the 'badge-fi', posing as hi-end CDPs, which often feature a cheap plastic DVD-ROM, as opposed to a die-cast metal dedicated CD transport, and again experience there tells me there's an audible difference. Also, it depends on what you mean by "really expensive".

    There's a reason (indeed there are several) why I use a vintage Sony CDP, as a transport - and it's not just because I like the look of it!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 43,561
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Some valid points, but I disagree with your conclusion, based on experience. It doesn't take into consideration the effect of transport mechs, engineering and PSU arrangements, all of which cost money and the best examples of that are generally found on more expensive players.

    It's not a given though, especially among the 'badge-fi', posing as hi-end CDPs, which often feature a cheap plastic DVD-ROM, as opposed to a die-cast metal dedicated CD transport, and again experience there tells me there's an audible difference. Also, it depends on what you mean by "really expensive".

    There's a reason (indeed there are several) why I use a vintage Sony CDP, as a transport - and it's not just because I like the look of it!

    Marco.
    I didn't want to write a long essay no-one would read hence why I said 'generally speaking.' There's always exceptions if you look hard enough.

    There is quite a few expensive (costing thousands) CD players out there that are just a cheap mech in an adequate case, made in China for ten bob. They'll sound fine but you're not getting anything for that money over an Onkyo or similar that you could get in Richer Sounds for a few hundred.

    High end Sony is a whole different ballgame but there is no more high end Sony and I wouldn't recommend getting a vintage one unless you can fix them or know someone who will.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > Troels Gravesen Faital 3WC-15.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •