Open invitation to contribute to a general Library article on refurbishment

[Barry]

Barry, I think your idea is a good one. It looks like the suggestions are appearing here though - you/we may have to convert them into a digest or something.

A guide on what not to use on what is just as valuable too, I'd say.
I've got a big thing against the use of cleaning products with silicone in them, because the silicone 'creeps' far beyond the surface you spread it on & I think it must compromise the quality of connections.

Yes that's important. I have a table of solvents placed in order of increasing strength. I would advise using nothing stronger than IPA or meths.

Must confess I'm a bit of a slob and do use a dilute mixture of warm water and washing-up liquid to clean equipment. Sometimes I will do the same when washing the car. Learning a lot at the moment, from people's posts on various detergents.

Do you have anything to add to André's notes on Teak, or any other wood for that matter? This is especially important for the refurbishment of speaker cabinets. I would also like to know what can be done about disguising those areas of veneered wood, where a small piece of veneer has chipped or flaked off. Any advice?

Regards

[spendorman]

I would also like to know what can be done about disguising those areas of veneered wood, where a small piece of veneer has chipped or flaked off. Any advice?

Regards

I have several very old tins of Brummer Stopper (I think it's called). Really a filler for wood. Teak, light Oak, dark Oak, Mahogany etc. Pretty good for the purpose mentioned. If in doubt to the exact colour, I use slightly lighter filler and a brown scratch pen.

I am no expert woodworker, but did lots of speaker cabinets years ago.

Correction, just found my tins, they are called Brummer Stopping

And an admission, my immaculate 15 Ohm Chartwell LS3/5a's, are not really immaculate, there was a tiny piece of veneer missing top left front corner of one cabinet. The repair (done as above) can barely be detected.

[Techno Commander]

I would advise using nothing stronger than IPA or meths.

Regards

Meths can leave a oily film after use. When I used to clean laser optics and perfestion was required, IPA was the better product. I also use IPA at work for cleaning the chassis' and bezels on aviation electronics. A small (10mm diameter) paint brush with the bristles cut down to about 1cm long is ideal.

[spendorman]

Meths can leave a oily film after use. When I used to clean laser optics and perfestion was required, IPA was the better product. I also use IPA at work for cleaning the chassis' and bezels on aviation electronics. A small (10mm diameter) paint brush with the bristles cut down to about 1cm long is ideal.

I too cleaned (power) laser optics with IPA, preferable to use a freshly opened bottle as IPA is hygroscopic.

[Batty]

I have instructions from Max on how to renovate the bearing of an Elite Rock if that would be of interest.

[Techno Commander]

I too cleaned (power) laser optics with IPA, preferable to use a freshly opened bottle as IPA is hygroscopic.

What lasers did you work on?
I used to have a few argons. ALC 60X & 68B and a SP2011.

[Rare Bird]

I have instructions from Max on how to renovate the bearing of an Elite Rock if that would be of interest.

yes please just cos i'm nosey

[Batty]

Will have to scan at home probably over the weekend.

[spendorman]

What lasers did you work on?
I used to have a few argons. ALC 60X & 68B and a SP2011.

BOC 20 Watt YAG (later uprated to 25Watt, horrible job to do) and Baasel Laser 80 Watt YAG. I was going to put down the company at which I worked, then thought of the Official Secrets Act. Still, you can probably guess.

[Techno Commander]

Are they use for cutting/machining,or "other" purposes?

Talking of the OSA, we used to have a really nice chap from AWE Aldermaston who would "back up" our risk assessments to local councils.