Hadcock Tonearms.

[Mike]

Here's a question for all you Hadcock aficionados;

Silicone damping fluid, use the arm with, or without it?

I'm asking because my used example arrived with a sort of filthy sludge in it which I've obviously cleaned out and it seems happy enough without it. Or does it?... I've commented elsewhere about the 'cone-flap' problem I currently have and I'm wondering if this lack of damping fluid might be exacerbating this phenomenon?

If I need some of this fluid what grade is it and where do I obtain it?


Cheers...

[thrunobulaxx]

Here's a question for all you Hadcock aficionados;

Silicone damping fluid, use the arm with, or without it?

I'm asking because my used example arrived with a sort of filthy sludge in it which I've obviously cleaned out and it seems happy enough without it. Or does it?... I've commented elsewhere about the 'cone-flap' problem I currently have and I'm wondering if this lack of damping fluid might be exacerbating this phenomenon?

If I need some of this fluid what grade is it and where do I obtain it?


Cheers...

J7 sells it Mike (audio origami) i imagine it is better with it than without myself.

[lurcher]

I can't answer your poll, as I don't use it, but I wouldn't say it was a wast of time. I don't use a amp that uses feedback to try and give it a response to DC, so that might hide a problem. I would have thought testing the resonance frequencies with a test disk would be worth doing.

[Marco]

Yep, I'd go with some fluid damping - not too much, though.

It's something that has to be fine tuned by ear. I've got some spare silicone fluid left over from the KAB bits you can have Mike when you come down, if you can wait until then. It's in a syringe all ready to squirt in

Marco.

[DSJR]

When I used to set/re-glue these arms up (along with Mayware) I always used just enough damping fluid to stop the arm top wobbling all over the place (they weren't as self stabilising as an ARO from what I remember). Remember the car suspension analogy - it should rebound once and then settle, or summat like that...

Whatever I dislike about the (you've been) 'ad cock, they could sound very fine, especially with Deccas. I'm surprised they still exist. I'd have thought early ones would have fallen apart by now and new ones seem very expensive considering the finish still isn't up to much (IMO of course)...

[lurcher]

Odd, mine seems to be very stable, it seems to be near critically damped without the need of silicon.

[Marco]

Dave,

The latest 'cocks (ooh-er) are finished to a much higher standard. I bought a brand new GH-242 Integra about 2 and a half years ago and it was finished immaculately - sounded great too, but it was on an LP12

Marco.

[Cotlake]

A well researched guy in this area is James Doddington. You'll find alot of his educational posts on various forums albeit that for about 18 months he's been very silent owing to work commitments. He is a bit of a Guru and always runs his uni-pivots dry only on the basis if the system will allow it. He therefore advocates the dry approach for both Mayware and Hadcock.

Having said that, if you do feel the need to damp with silicon solution, there are several options on different viscosity through Model Making shops, particularly those that major on model car racing.

This thing has the potential to be very anal. Is silicon solution needed? Which viscosity is right for your personal application? How much quantity do you need? I don't actually have the answers but I suppose this message is intended to reveal what a 'can of worms' the whole thing is.

My head tells me, try and run dry because that has been recommended by some well respected DIY hi-fi people. If your system/unipivot doesn't like it, comply with solution volume (fill to the level as recommended by the manufacturer) and start with a low viscosity solution. As said, it'll be an anal thing and if you're up for it, thereafter experiment with thicker solutions until you have established your ultimate anologue TT sound presentation.

Best wishes,

Greg

[Marco]

Yep, when I had the Integra I ran it 'dry', and it sounded great, so no doubt you're right, Greg. The only thing that made me say to Mike to try some silicon was the effect it had on the arm on my 1210 (with a 103 Pro) - the damping trough and silicon fluid makes a pretty big difference to the arm's performance, but then it's not a Hadcock...

Doesn't it depend on the cartridge used, too? I believe that Deccas, for example, liked some silicon damping.

Marco.

[Sand Dancin Donkey Walker]

Mike
I would certainly go with the Silicon damping fluid, by coincidence I have some of the J7 stuff at home. I use it in my Audiocraft tonearm. You are more than welcome to have the spare syringe full. In fact one syringe is more than enough for a lifetime of trials.
As a thought my tonearm is adjustable for the amount of damping, although I have the Silicon in the tonearm I actually have the adjustment set to minimum. So if the volume of Silicon on the Hadcock equates to different amount of applied damping I would start off with little and move up from there, it is also quite easy to remove excess fluid too.

Andy - SDDW