I must apologise in advance I'm gonna talk about the dark art of hifi cables some people think it's snake oil but I'd still like some speaker cable suggestions I now have tannoy xt8f
I must apologise in advance I'm gonna talk about the dark art of hifi cables some people think it's snake oil but I'd still like some speaker cable suggestions I now have tannoy xt8f
There's about a million different speaker cables on the market can we narrow it down a bit?
First question - how much money do you want to waste?
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
You should consider what lengths you need, Personally, I'd allow a half a metre at least longer per run than your minimum workable length.
If you are able to put your own plugs on you will save money, terminated cables work out dearer as a rule. Plugs can be screw fixed or solder on types. I prefer soldered myself.
Plenty of decent terminated/unterminated speaker cable on ebay, like Van Damme for instance .
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
Approx 2 metres length required dont fancy silver cables always found too bright
What cable do you use macca
This one:
https://theartofsound.net/forum/show...r-Cable-Review
They are big and chunky and look like I'm taking it all really seriously. Plus they are well made with solid connectors to prevent fall-apart. They are no longer available as the cable they are made from is no longer available.
But in truth I do not hear any difference between them and a cheap 79 strand with fisher-price banana plugs I found in a skip (well, that I got off Geoff to tell the truth).
Some cables in some situations might make a bit of a difference. Really thin cables, cables made out of steel or aluminium instead of copper. Cables where the connections are poorly made. Cables with high capacitance or resistance. Cables with little boxes on them full of caps and resistors. All of these can change the frequency response. Not much, but sometimes enough to sound 'bright' or 'dull', 'toppy' or 'bass-heavy.'
My advice is always get a heavy gauge pure copper multistrand cable. Brand is irrelevant. If you want connectors not bare wire then get them put on by someone who knows how to do it properly (if that's not you). Fit and forget. Don't spend serious money unless you're loaded and don't care.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
This is not too expensive and is recommended by many https://www.hificollective.co.uk/wir...insulated.html if you are going to bi-wire then used the DCA16 guage as well.
By some decent end connectors make them up and job done.
Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound, and accepting you get it wrong sometimes.
Analog Inputs: Pro-Ject Signature 10 TT & arm, Benz Micro LP-S, Michel Cusis MC, Goldring 2500 and Ortofon Rondo Blue cartridges, Hitachi FT5500 mk2 Tuner
Digital:- Marantz SA-KI Pearl CD player, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi+ Pro, Buffalo NAS Drive
Amplification:- AudioValve Sunilda phono stage, Krell KSP-7B pre-amp, Krell KSA-80 power amp
Output: Wilson Benesch Vector speakers, KLH Ultimate One Headphones
Cables: Tellurium Q Ultra Black II RCA & Chord Epic 2 RCA, various speaker leads, & links
I think I am nearing audio nirvana, but don’t tell anyone.
i oft used fisual stuff . it was pretty good for the lowly price. also made various other stuff up. was good fun
Regards,
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Tried loads and stopped wondering (worrying?) about speaker cables years ago and stuck with my excellent reasonably priced Transparent Audio 'Musichord' that sounds as good as any of the other many I'd used. Don't look for any, you won't find them . It looks like two core power tool flex, very ordinary.
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!