Dynavector XX2 mk2 mounting

[Fergus]

Ah! Merci monsieur

strictly talking, the threading is the making of the male part using a die, while tapping is the female part using a tap... just for your info lol

[Fergus]

Yes it could indeed be a pointless exercise. I was just curious if anyone else managed it.
I just have a strange fetish for headshells with closed holes ��

I have had a look at my XX2.
I don’t see how you are going to mount it from underneath very easily.
There appears to be very little space for the head of the fasteners.

[Fergus]

I have had a look at my XX2.
I don’t see how you are going to mount it from underneath very easily.
There appears to be very little space for the head of the fasteners.

Yes you could be right. Thanks Kevin.

[AJSki2fly]

Yes you could be right. Thanks Kevin.

Hi Fergus, just read this thread, not sure what screws(bolts) you are using but it would be advisable to use either aluminium or plastic, in other words non-magenetic, especially if you intend to put the screws in from underneath. A relatively large head that is magnetic may interfere with the cartridge working properly. In fact this is advisable for any cartridge mounting I believe.

[Barry]

The Dynavector XX2 has threaded holes in the body, so the fixing screws (i.e. fully threaded bolts) are applied from the top, through the holes in the headshell. That is why there is little room for the screw head on the underside of the cartridge, and why you cannot use a headshell that has blind tapped holes.

[Fergus]

The Dynavector XX2 has threaded holes in the body, so the fixing screws (i.e. fully threaded bolts) are applied from the top, through the holes in the headshell. That is why there is little room for the screw head on the underside of the cartridge, and why you cannot use a headshell that has blind tapped holes.

Thanks Barry. I think that’s good advice.

[Fergus]

Hi Fergus, just read this thread, not sure what screws(bolts) you are using but it would be advisable to use either aluminium or plastic, in other words non-magenetic, especially if you intend to put the screws in from underneath. A relatively large head that is magnetic may interfere with the cartridge working properly. In fact this is advisable for any cartridge mounting I believe.

Thanks for your reply. I’m using the ones that came with the cart. They’re aluminium I believe. I occasionally use stainless steel but it’s rather dubious if they’re fully non-magnetic, esp if bought eastern sellers

[Barry]

Thanks for your reply. I’m using the ones that came with the cart. They’re aluminium I believe. I occasionally use stainless steel but it’s rather dubious if they’re fully non-magnetic, esp if bought eastern sellers

Depends on the grade of stainless steel. The only grades which are truly non-magnetic are the following: Austenitic steel grades 302HQ, 303, 310, 316, 321 253MA, and 904L.

If in doubt use aluminium fixings. (The old advice to bolt up the cartridge tightly is now discredited. It was started by Linn who almost suggested you "tighten the bolts
until they shear, then slacken by a quarter turn".

[Fergus]

Depends on the grade of stainless steel. The only grades which are truly non-magnetic are the following: Austenitic steel grades 302HQ, 303, 310, 316, 321 253MA, and 904L.

If in doubt use aluminium fixings. (The old advice to bolt up the cartridge tightly is now discredited. It was started by Linn who almost suggested you "tighten the bolts
until they shear, then slacken by a quarter turn".

Thanks Barry. Good to know the ref numbers for the non magnetic grade SS.
I’ve read a lot of threads that mention the Linn tightness thing but never knew the origin. So cheers for that! ��