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Thread: Foggy Plastic

  1. #1
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,734
    I'm Mike.

    Default Foggy Plastic

    Hi fellow AoS folk,

    I'm currently sorting out yet another Thorens TD160, for a change this one came with it's plastic lid, the lid is scratched but that can be remedied, my issue is that parts of it are quite badly fogged, i've tried sanding away the top layer of plastic and then re polishing but the fogging remains, is it possible that the plastic is fogged to its core and no amount of sanding will remedy the problem, or do i just need to persevere?


    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  2. #2
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    hiya Mike

    Yes it is possible that it's fogged to the core. Sat in direct UV light for decades maybe? I'd carry on sanding though, what do you have to lose? Try a coarser grit sandpaper if you didn't already (I bet you did )
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,734
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Not really Martin 2000 grit, i'll try something a bit more meaty


    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jac Hawk View Post
    i just need to persevere?
    Yup.

    The lids were polystyrene (at least they were on the early ones) and they do polish up with work.

    I've not seen one fogged right through the thickness.

    I've never sanded a cover, I just start with Autosol or T-Cut until it looks reasonable and finish off with Brasso or similar, then furniture wax.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  5. #5
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jac Hawk View Post
    Not really Martin 2000 grit, i'll try something a bit more meaty
    Yeah try it. Used to do that with car headlights but then they weren't forty odd years old so they did clear up. Not done a TT cover. My SL1200 lid came up like new just with about ten baby wipes and a bit of elbow grease.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,734
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Well I’ve tried pretty much everything, it certainly seems like the fogging is right the way through, I’ve even been quite aggressive with the sanding and it’s no different once the scratches are polished out.


    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  7. #7
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    New lid then I suppose.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 1,861
    I'm Dennis.

    Default

    Coincidentally my alarm clock fell two days ago and the face cracked.

    I did my best to deform it and get superglue into the cracks, but with limited success. It never did polish well and was always a bit cloudy, presumably cheap plastic.

    I used Brasso Silvo, (finer), and Duraglitwith very limited success..

    Usually plastics will respond to a series of wet or dry papers, 4 or 600 upwards towards the finer 1200 and 2000, and then the use of a polish as above.

    Finishing with a polymer coat; Simonise Diamond is good.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 14,709
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pharos View Post
    Coincidentally my alarm clock fell two days ago and the face cracked.

    I did my best to deform it and get superglue into the cracks, but with limited success. It never did polish well and was always a bit cloudy, presumably cheap plastic.

    I used Brasso Silvo, (finer), and Duraglitwith very limited success..

    Usually plastics will respond to a series of wet or dry papers, 4 or 600 upwards towards the finer 1200 and 2000, and then the use of a polish as above.

    Finishing with a polymer coat; Simonise Diamond is good.
    Be honest, you chucked it across the room Are these lids made of something different these days? The cover for my record player is described as acrylic.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
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  10. #10
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,981
    I'm Ken.

    Default

    Use a hot air stripper and CAREFULLY heat it. Don't get to close, or heat it to much or the part will sag/distort.

    I've had this work in the past.

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