Lenco L75 based Turntable Project

[Qwin]

My motor was serviced by Sien but its still quite noisy, and there s a clicky sound that Lencoheads here conclude is from the idler.
Oddly very little of that is transmitted to the speakers .
This tt produces a very engaging sound with plenty PRATAttachment 30515Attachment 30516Attachment 30517Attachment 30518
Feet are from Michael Lim of Rega upgrade fame(also a local chap)
Really pleased with this Malaysian L75 rebuild.
I ve secured another motor and will look into a new idler and that should do it.
Thanks Ken for all help.

Your welcome Shahrin, hope you get that noise issue sorted.
For those not in the know, Sien is the proprietor of SPH in Malaysia and he makes various upgrade parts for Lenco and other TT's, complete TT's and his own arms.

[Qwin]

The usual improvements heard with fluid damping are in the bass, which may sound tighter and more weighty. This can be more evident with Deccas and low compliance MCs.

Noted Geoff, thanks for that.

[Qwin]

Attachment 30514

Thanks for posting that picture Patrick.

If you compare the earlier assembly (lower pic) with the later one above. The wires exit the arm, much closer to the end of the wand on the earlier one.

What I seem to have, is the early base plate and wand, with the later bearing housing, containing the bigger trough and wider clamp.

It all makes sense now.

[karma1967]

ah mystery solved!

[Patrick Dixon]

Both the arm wands I have (old and newer) have the same headshell offset (whatever it is), so I'm not sure where the other offsets that people have reported come in.

I am not sure if you have the older clamp whether the arm wand is long enough to achieve your revised geometry.

[Qwin]

Both the arm wands I have (old and newer) have the same headshell offset (whatever it is), so I'm not sure where the other offsets that people have reported come in.

I am not sure if you have the older clamp whether the arm wand is long enough to achieve your revised geometry.

I don't think the earlier version will work either, the wand will be to far into the narrow clamp to grip it effectively. I've pointed that out in my full project on my website, but thanks for pointing it out here. The later product will work fine with my geometry, even a later wand in an early body should work, it's just a genuine early version, with the correct parts that wont work.

[Qwin]

Didn't like the idea of having to polish the Copper mat regularly, its a messy job, Copper tarnishes quickly and every finger mark will go Black in a short time.
I thought of painting it with clear lacquer, Black etch primer or even Flocking it, but was worried about what it would do to the sound, as the bare Copper works very well.
I ended up oxidizing the surface with some jewellers patina fluid for that aged Copper look.
It's not a perfectly even colour, but much more even than just leaving it to oxidize naturally, I quite like it.
This should protect it and be a fit and forget finish that doesn't effect the sound quality.

[Marra]

That's a nice finish.