Has anyone on here bought or tried Quantum Science fuses, or any after-market high end fuses for that matter? If so what’s your opinion.
Senior Member
Location: Kingsbury, NW London
Posts: 1,232
I'm Clive.
Quantum Science fuses.
Has anyone on here bought or tried Quantum Science fuses, or any after-market high end fuses for that matter? If so what’s your opinion.
SOURCE:OPPO UDP-205 BluRay, SkyQ, Technics SL1210M5G/HexMat Eclipse/MN Bearing/Origin Live Gravity One puck/Isonoes with Boots/Jelco TK-850S Tonearm/Hana Umami Blue, PS Audio Stellar Phonostage. I also have an AT-OC9XSH as a spare cartridge.
AMPLIFIER: Bryston BR-20 Pre/DAC/Streamer & Bryston 4B3 Power Amplifier
SPEAKERS: Spendor D7 on Iso-Acoustics Gaia III’s
HEADPHONES: OPPO PM-1 with Atlas Zeno cable, B&W Pi7 S2 and B&W C5 v2.
CABLES: Analogue: Speaker Atlas Mavros Grun. Interconnect - Atlas Mavros XLR x3, MCRU Silver Tonearm cable
Digital:Audioquest Carbon Ethernet x 4, Audioquest Carbon digital, English Electric 8Switch, Chord Optichord, Atlas Optical.
Mains: PS Audio Perfectwave AC-05 x 5, Isol-8 Powerline Extreme with Quantum Science yellow fuse on input cable, Sounds Fantastic 6way Mains Blocks.
STORAGE: Synology DS216J NAS with 2 x 3Tb WD Red hard-drives. Samsung 500Gb SSD.
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Senior Member
Location: Toulouse, France
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I'm Kevin.
Not tried them, but interestingly enough, there are no measurements showing how they work.
How can 20mm of wire make a difference, at the input of your device? I am intrigued to see feedback from happy users though.
Kevin
Too busy enjoying the music....
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I'm Grant.
£3,800 for a fuse??
https://www.futureshop.co.uk/quantum...AaAgZDEALw_wcB
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But they might be quite goodOriginally Posted by struth
.
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
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I'm Lawrence.
Future shop = future prices
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I'm Chris.
And if it blows it has ZERO value. Not like it can be repaired.
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Location: Cornwall
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I'm Martin.
how about replacing the fuse in the mains cable to the component with a bar of the finest Pure solid silver and fitting a 10p standard fuse in the extension lead from the wall socket ?
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Barry
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Location: Kingsbury, NW London
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I'm Clive.
I must admit that I’ve been totally agnostic about fuses but reading some of the comments just shows that you seem to have closed minds. I asked the question to try to get an intelligent answer. Clearly none of you guys have actually tried an after market fuse.
SOURCE:OPPO UDP-205 BluRay, SkyQ, Technics SL1210M5G/HexMat Eclipse/MN Bearing/Origin Live Gravity One puck/Isonoes with Boots/Jelco TK-850S Tonearm/Hana Umami Blue, PS Audio Stellar Phonostage. I also have an AT-OC9XSH as a spare cartridge.
AMPLIFIER: Bryston BR-20 Pre/DAC/Streamer & Bryston 4B3 Power Amplifier
SPEAKERS: Spendor D7 on Iso-Acoustics Gaia III’s
HEADPHONES: OPPO PM-1 with Atlas Zeno cable, B&W Pi7 S2 and B&W C5 v2.
CABLES: Analogue: Speaker Atlas Mavros Grun. Interconnect - Atlas Mavros XLR x3, MCRU Silver Tonearm cable
Digital:Audioquest Carbon Ethernet x 4, Audioquest Carbon digital, English Electric 8Switch, Chord Optichord, Atlas Optical.
Mains: PS Audio Perfectwave AC-05 x 5, Isol-8 Powerline Extreme with Quantum Science yellow fuse on input cable, Sounds Fantastic 6way Mains Blocks.
STORAGE: Synology DS216J NAS with 2 x 3Tb WD Red hard-drives. Samsung 500Gb SSD.
TV LG55B7 OLED
Drunken Moderator
Location: Staffordshire, England
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I'm Martin.
I think you did get quite a few intelligent answers. If something cannot possibly work then there is no point in trying it. Same reason I have never jumped off my roof and flapped my arms to see if I can fly.
Any perceived benefit is entirely psychological. When we do a tweak we listen to judge if it has been effective. That means we listen differently to how we would normally and so we perceive differently too. The output signal of the device with the magic fuse in it does not change, therefore the sound cannot change.
They're a con. Don't waste your time and money.
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