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Thread: Blown mid range driver - can it be repaired?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Aug 2021

    Location: South West

    Posts: 151
    I'm Stuart.

    Default Blown mid range driver - can it be repaired?

    Evening all
    Another one of those questions which, in many ways, I’m a bit embarrassed to ask because I realise that I should know the answer!
    Recently picked up a pair of Castle Avons (in fact saved them going to the dump) and was fully intending to use them in a second system.
    The cabinets have polished up really nicely.
    Tweeters look immaculate - not a mark on them.
    The mid range drivers - gaskets obviously re-glued in the past.
    Now the problem. No sound coming from one of the mid range drivers. I removed it from the cabinet - and this is where I’m probably not going to use the proper terminology.
    The two thin copper? wire strands, from the +ve and -ve cables, to the voice coil - one of these has snapped off and is in mid air - connected to nothing.
    Can it be repaired? Is it worth the cost?
    If it can’t be repaired, I guess I need to call someone like Falcon to see if they can suggest a replacement. But I realise I’d need two.
    Or, best to search on E-bay for a used driver?
    The last thing I want to do is to consign these speakers to the re-cycling centre! The cabinets alone are bits of furniture.
    Am very grateful for any pointers and as ever, I do regard all replies as a learning exercise. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 6,883
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Add a photo of the broken wire. The problem is that when they break they tend to be at at the delicate thin voice coil wire but you never know it might not be that bad.

    Even if it is bad I actually once repaired a B139 broken wire just as it goes into the speaker voice coil gap which was a very delicate operation!

  3. #3
    Join Date: Aug 2021

    Location: South West

    Posts: 151
    I'm Stuart.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence001 View Post
    Add a photo of the broken wire. The problem is that when they break they tend to be at at the delicate thin voice coil wire but you never know it might not be that bad.

    Even if it is bad I actually once repaired a B139 broken wire just as it goes into the speaker voice coil gap which was a very delicate operation!
    Hi Lawrence.
    Thanks for the reply. Photo attached. I have no idea what the brown gunk is, but that's where the wire has broken.
    Since my original question, I've sent a message to Wilmslow Audio to see if they have drop in replacements.
    However, given that these were never going to be anything other than 2nd system speakers, I may just decide that they're too expensive to put right and cut my losses by selling for spares/repair.
    Thanks
    20220412_090928 (2).jpg
    Last edited by MisterMoseley; 12-04-2022 at 08:26. Reason: text added

  4. #4
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 6,883
    I'm Lawrence.

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    I can't see clearly where is supposed to join the voice coil but neither wire should be touching the back of the cone. If you get a well focussed shot of the other angle looking up I might be able to see where they've come off.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jun 2015

    Location: London/Durham

    Posts: 6,883
    I'm Lawrence.

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    Also if the white wire is burnt someone's probably already tried a repair once. Might be able to be redone though.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Aug 2021

    Location: South West

    Posts: 151
    I'm Stuart.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence001 View Post
    I can't see clearly where is supposed to join the voice coil but neither wire should be touching the back of the cone. If you get a well focussed shot of the other angle looking up I might be able to see where they've come off.
    Hi Lawrence.
    A couple more photos. The one highlighted green is the tinsel wire off the back of the -ve terminal. This connection is OK as far as I know. I'm not sure if wires are joined under that brownish gunk or whether it is some sort of glue or similar to hold the wire in place.
    Second photo. The bit highlighted red is the tinsel wire broken away and in 'mid air'. The bit highlighted in pink is where the tinsel wire continues on into the voice coil??
    Any help or thoughts much appreciated.
    Wilmslow have also now replied and as ever, really helpful. Sadly, the drop in Monacor replacements are over £115 each and for a pair of speakers which were only ever going to be on reserve duty (and worth about £150 working), it would be a waste of money for me to buy the Monacors.
    So I think it's repair if possible and sensible cost. Second option, try to find a spare mid bass unit on E-Bay. 3rd option, sell on as spares. 4th option, remove tweeters, working mid range and Xovers and try to sell them in dribs and drabs.
    Thanks again.positive wire.jpgnegative wire.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: cheltenham

    Posts: 746
    I'm matt.

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    If you're anywhere near Cheltenham I could have a look. It's not something I've ever repaired before though...

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2021

    Location: South West

    Posts: 151
    I'm Stuart.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fatmarley View Post
    If you're anywhere near Cheltenham I could have a look. It's not something I've ever repaired before though...
    That’s a very kind offer. Thank you.
    I’ve just sent a message to someone who repairs amps, TTs, etc to see if he can do speaker repairs.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,934
    I'm Martin.

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    I would open up the working speaker and see how the wiring on that driver is configured, should give you some idea of what goes where.

    Really hard to tell from the photos.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: cheltenham

    Posts: 746
    I'm matt.

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    You can buy tinsel wire on eBay. As long as there's enough to solder to where it joins the cone, I'd replace the other piece of wire that is soldered to the terminal.

    It would be worth experimenting with a cheap, old driver first.

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