So moving on, next up i cut a 24mm hole in the armboard, 1st of all by drilling a small 2mm pilot hole then using a hole saw to cut the actual hole. Before fitting the arm I figured out where the phono cable was going to go inside the plinth attached a cable clamp and cut a 12mm hole in the baseboard then attached the feet which are 40mm turned aluminium with a 3mm sorbothaine pad, these are the same type as i've used in the past on my TD160. Before buttoning it all up i removed the bearing and gave it a clean and re lube.
Then i looked to fit the springs back into the correct positions, this is quite important on these decks and is quite straightforward, each of the springs leans inwards a little bit, the idea is the inward slant is aimed towards the bearing this has the effect of centring the top plate in the plinth when it's mounted, the springs are stuck to the rubber mounting seats on the underside of the top plate with a little contact adhesive and stops the springs turning when the adjustment cups are rotated, once dry i re attached the top plate, fitted the arm, then balanced the top plate which is much easier on the TD125 than the TD160, there isn't as much travel but because you're not having to use sockets and wrenches and balance a sub chassis which has an arm poking through it which can catch or generally get in the way it didn't take more than a few minutes. Finally i polished the platter and sub platter using Duraglit which is an awful job and on this deck hasn't given me the results i was hoping for so i'll be taking the platter to a local blacksmith to polish.
Before plugging it in and giving it a spin i checked the tracking force and cartridge alignment.
[IMG]IMG_0033 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_0042 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_0321 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_0331 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_0329 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]