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Thread: Thorens TD160 mk 2- Restoration and Upgrade project

  1. #111
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by brian2957 View Post
    Looks fantastic Andrew, love that top plate
    Thanks Brian. Yeah, it was a special order, took a couple of weeks to arrive.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbo View Post
    Wow that ids going to be a special looking TD160 Super Andy.
    Thanks Jim. Yeah, sad to see it go. The work I've done on this one has generated two more decks to restore!
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  2. #112
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 6,772
    I'm James.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    Thanks Brian. Yeah, it was a special order, took a couple of weeks to arrive.



    Thanks Jim. Yeah, sad to see it go. The work I've done on this one has generated two more decks to restore!
    Quality work there.
    Main system : VPI Scout 1.1 / JMW 9T / 2M Black / Croft 25R+ / Croft 7 / Heco Celan GT 702

    Second System : Goldring Lenco GL75 / AT95EX / Pioneer SX590 / Spendor SP2

  3. #113
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,734
    I'm Mike.

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    That top plate is looking very nice Andy, Q Design by any chance?


    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  4. #114
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jac Hawk View Post
    That top plate is looking very nice Andy, Q Design by any chance?
    No mate, designed and sourced locally. I buy British whenever possible.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  5. #115
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,302
    I'm Andrew.

    Default

    Pt 19 - She's leaving soon....

    I've posted a quick video over on https://www.facebook.com/Wakefieldaudio/ and here you can see her spinning and running completely silent.

    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  6. #116
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 7,718
    I'm Brian.

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    Now that turntable looks a bit special
    Regards
    Brian

    Sell your cleverness and buy bewilderment . (Rumi )


    Korus Computer Audio music server
    JustBoom DAC . HRT Musicstreamer 2
    Amplifier : Sony TA FB740R
    Speakers : Tannoy 637
    Interconnects : MS Audio / Klotz MC5000 .
    Speaker cables : Western Electric 16AG

  7. #117
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 6,772
    I'm James.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    No mate, designed and sourced locally. I buy British whenever possible.
    Good decision to buy locally I think after the nightmare situation with buying or selling anything into Europe.
    Main system : VPI Scout 1.1 / JMW 9T / 2M Black / Croft 25R+ / Croft 7 / Heco Celan GT 702

    Second System : Goldring Lenco GL75 / AT95EX / Pioneer SX590 / Spendor SP2

  8. #118
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,734
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    No mate, designed and sourced locally. I buy British whenever possible.
    Q Design were British up until recently, then they moved to France, i've bought top plates off them before and the quality has always been top notch so it never occured to me to look elsewhere, Jimbo's right though Europe is more problematic to deal with now than it was pre Brexit, but that's a discussion for another day.


    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  9. #119
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,734
    I'm Mike.

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    My new top plate cover arrived during the week from Q design so i thought i'd wrap my project up by going through what i've done.

    So as i've probably said already I didn't have a complete deck to renovate, rather a collection of parts left from other projects and what i didn't have i was going to get from ebay. So what did i buy:

    1/ New plinth and base board in European Oak made for me to my spec by a local cabinet maker
    2/ New top plate cover from Q Design
    3/ 2nd hand outer platter from ebay
    4/ New 3 x M3 x 10mm screws to hold the motor in place
    5/ New M3 Flat washer for the motor adjustment screw
    6/ New 20mm x 8mm x 1mm compression spring for the motor adjuster
    7\ New 3 x M5 x 55mm suspension strut bolts
    8\ New Griffon suspension springs
    9\ New 4 x 30mm sorbothane - aluminium isolating feet from ebay
    10\New SRM Tech motor bearing knock kit
    11\New replacement capacitors and resistor
    12\New Dynamat Extreme damping sheet from ebay
    13\New 3mm Cork sheet from ebay
    14\New Vinyl Source acrylic armboard
    15\New 3 x M5 nyloc nuts
    16\New 3mm leather mat

    So to begin with i completely stripped the top plate, took the top plate cover off which is only thin and glued on, removed the glue residue, drilled out the old arm lift mechanism and removed it, removed the suspension springs, bolts, collars and floating top plate, then cleaned everything with IPA or acetone. After everything was cleaned i made templates for the Dynamat cladding for the top plate, the cork cladding for the floating top plate, then clad as much as possible leaving enough space in the corner where the motor goes coz once this stuff is on it's a pain in the arse to remove. Once everything was clad and the bearing sleeve wrapped with it's own little piece of dynamat i fitted the top plate into the new plinth, adjusted the corner supports so that the top of the deck was about 2mm below the edge of the plinth and level, then it was screwed in place and extra dynamat was stuck to the plinth sides and base board.

    Once all the cladding was done it was time to start the rebuild, i use a workmate so that i can turn the deck upside down, having it open so that only the edges are supported. Originally i fitted the old suspension bolts and had to re do this bit, what you will find is one of the suspension collars is shorter than the rest this is because one of the suspension bolts is sunk below the top plate and covered over with the top plate cover, this means unless you intend replacing the top plate cover you can't mess around with the suspension, anyway the suspension legs are dead simple to install, the bolt is inserted then the collar is slid into place then the locking nut is tightened up to make everything rigid. Once the legs are in place it's time to fit the springs and floating top plate, again this is dead simple the floating plate drops in over the 3 struts, i reused the original spring seat rubbers for the floating plate as they have little locators that hold them in the correct position, if you're replacing the original springs this next part is very important, you need to find the soft side of the spring by gently squeezing the spring between your thumb and forefinger, going all the way round until you find the soft side, once you've found it i'd mark it with a dab of correction fluid, this side should be positioned to point towards the bearing, the reason for doing this is it helps to stop lateral movement or the suspension to sag to one side, my new springs are a bit stiffer and are made differently out of a different type of steel so they don't suffer from this weakness, anyway once the springs are on and centred simply pop the top spring seat on, the washer and a new nyloc nut or wing nut, the reason for using a nyloc nut is that it doesn't unscrew over time like the originals do, so once your suspension is set it should stay that way for longer.

    Next was the electrics, i had an IEC power socket fitted when the plinth was made so that i could detach the power cable. Basically you have a plastic circuit stand with connections along the bottom it's covered with a grey plastic cover the whole thing snaps into place on the under side of the top plate , on the stand you have a pair of caps and a resistor that make sure that one half of the motor is 90 degrees out of phase, to lower the voltage to each side of the motor and a suppressor to stop any loud pops when you turn the deck on, most people don't replace these parts but in my mind if you're going to go to all this trouble for a rebuild you might as well, you can buy kits off ebay for about £10 or just buy the parts individually which is a bit cheaper, alternatively you can completely replace this with a printed circuit which are available pre populated with the correct parts on ebay, anyway i soldered on tails for the motor and directly connected the input leads and switch leads, i also connected the top plate to earth.

    Next i fitted the motor and the anit knock kit from SRM Tech which just glues into place on the bottom of the motor, the kit comes complete with a ball bearing, adjustment screw and grease, once fitted i i checked all the wiring and then fired it up, dead silent perfect.

    The next thing i did was give the platter and sub platter a polish, the outer edges i did with Duraglit and the flat surfaces i first scoured with wire wool then used a small edge sander that has a velcro type foot and stuck a microfiber cloth onto it i then polished with T Cut and finally gave the outer platter edge a coat of silicone polish to keep it shiny for longer.

    Next up i fitted the top plate cover and arm board, i glued the top plate cover into place with impact adhesive the same way the original one was done, you need to be careful some folks use dowels in the 4 screw holes to centre the plate, i prefer to line the top plate cover up with the front edge and sides of the plinth, there's no right or wrong way but you're using impact adhesive so you have no adjustment once the cover is in place. The acrylic armboard kit i got from The Vinyl Source, i've used their kits in the past they are of a decent quality and finish and are easy to fit.

    My next job was to fit the arm and get the deck balanced. From the start of this project i intended to fit my Audiomods arm, fitting is very simple as it has a threaded base and retention nut, the tricky part with these decks is securing the phono cables, on the original Thorens arm the phono cable is soldered to a panel similar to the power connector and the thin arm cables run from there to the arm and have little to no effect on the balance, however on my arm the phono cables come out of the base of the arm so you need to anchor it firmly to the plinth giving the cable enough play to allow the suspension to move correctly, the effect of this on the deck is that it pushes slightly on the arm altering its weight, but as i've said once the cable is anchored the effect of the cable is a constant and the deck can be balanced, i user a cable anchor screwed directly to the side of the plinth then zip tie the cables to the anchor point, it's a solid fix but can easily be taken apart and doesn't damage the cables. Once the arm's fitted it's time to get the deck balanced, i use an adjustable platform that i can level then sit the deck on it with the bottom off, some people say you need to have the bottom on every time you take a measurement, it's up to you but for me it makes no difference, basically you need to adjust each of the nuts on the suspension struts so that the deck sits high enough to clear the motor, is level and gives sufficient bounce, it's trial and error but the first thing is getting it riding at the right height, then after that get it level, once that's done everything should be sweet and automatically you have plenty of bounce.

    The final jobs were to fit the feet to the baseboard and button her up, i bought 30mm aluminium feet that sit on a 3mm sorborthane pad, they cost about £30 off ebay, i could have gone for more elaborate feet but i felt that these would work well and look quite nice too, then i added oil to the bearing, the sleeve bearing shaft had been clean previously but i gave them another clean just to be sure then added about 25 drops of 3 in 1 oil to the bearing sleeve which seems to be just the right amount as you can see the oil on the top of the bearing shaft if you pull it out a little and take a look, then i fitted the belt and adjusted the motor ride angle, the last job of all was to balance the arm and set the cartridge.

    Job done here are some photos:

    [IMG]IMG_0064 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]IMG_0063 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]IMG_0061 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]IMG_0067 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]IMG_0065 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]DSC_0571 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]DSC_0572 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]DSC_0574 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]DSC_0578 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]IMG_0073 by mike davis, on Flickr[/IMG]


    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  10. #120
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 7,718
    I'm Brian.

    Default

    Absolutely gorgeous Mike. This is fantastic work
    Regards
    Brian

    Sell your cleverness and buy bewilderment . (Rumi )


    Korus Computer Audio music server
    JustBoom DAC . HRT Musicstreamer 2
    Amplifier : Sony TA FB740R
    Speakers : Tannoy 637
    Interconnects : MS Audio / Klotz MC5000 .
    Speaker cables : Western Electric 16AG

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