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Thread: Class A amps ?

  1. #21
    Join Date: Jun 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by Filterlab View Post
    So which class of amplifier is the technical ideal?

    I must admit to being tempted by Class A amplifiers, but it’s the electricity usage that puts me off somewhat. Having a large Class A that drinks electricity as soon as it’s switched on (and bear in mind my system is on for around 14 hours a day), would be something I’d have to budget for in a sensible world, although how much difference it would make is calculable. But why pay for electricity that just gets wasted? Are pure Class A designs really that much better than the Class A/B and Class D counterparts?
    You just turn your heating down to compensate, and save a bit of money there
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: Zu Omen Def, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

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    A/V:
    LG 55" OLED, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL Storm sub

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  2. #22
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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  3. #23
    Join Date: Feb 2008

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    Class A amps still have their place in modern society, when done right, they have an effortless presentation, and an immediacy even at low volume levels that many amp designs from other class's seem to miss, untill you crank them up to a level that all too often becomes tiresome after a period of listening time.
    However; i do agree that there are some great amp designs out there that get very close to Class A, without being so, class D, or switching amps are getting better all the time, and there will undoubtably come a day when Class A will have sung its final song, but until then, all those who have experienced and thus appreciate the best of what class A can bring to Audio replay, i salute you!
    "Today scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality"
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  4. #24
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

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    I'm Martin.

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    I've got three solid state class A amps and used to have a valve one too but sold it a few months back. They all sound slightly different to me.

    I read some EE saying that if you go with class A design that inherently solves a lot of problems that are otherwise complex to sort out without compromising sound quality (i.e just applying a shed-load of global feedback to cover up the issue)

    Which implies that a properly sorted none-class A will be just as good as a class A, and a not properly sorted none class A will always sound a bit crap. Which mirrors my own experience with amplifiers.

    There's plenty of class AB and class B amps with perfect noise and distortion figures but they sound a bit veiled and grey. Because it's how you achieve that low noise and distortion that really matters .

    I don't think I've ever heard a class A amp that has that problem.

    Maybe that is wrong, I'm not an EE, but it's what I have understood from reading up.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Dec 2008

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    My current Class A power amp mirrors my findings of the Musical Fidelity A100X I had back around 1989. Beautifully clear, precise sound with no hardness or nasties. They both produce or produced a sound that was lovely and clear in all frequencies with an enormous soundstage. If these are typical of Class A amplifiers then I cannot recommend them more as they succeed in giving me what I always thought valves would give but never did.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Mar 2020

    Location: Lancashire

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    I'm Paul.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Filterlab View Post
    So which class of amplifier is the technical ideal?

    I must admit to being tempted by Class A amplifiers, but it’s the electricity usage that puts me off somewhat. Having a large Class A that drinks electricity as soon as it’s switched on (and bear in mind my system is on for around 14 hours a day), would be something I’d have to budget for in a sensible world, although how much difference it would make is calculable. But why pay for electricity that just gets wasted? Are pure Class A designs really that much better than the Class A/B and Class D counterparts?
    Has anybody actually calculated the running costs on a typical Class A compared to say Class A/B or valve? Is it pennies or pounds?

  7. #27
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

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    I'm Martin.

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    A 100 watt class A will cost about 7p per hour. So cheaper than using an expensive cartridge. Unless you have to do that as well.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: East Riding of Yorkshire these days

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    A 100 watt class A will cost about 7p per hour. So cheaper than using an expensive cartridge. Unless you have to do that as well.
    Our 'Smart' meter indicates that it is costing around 7p per hour to run which has to be a bargain.

  9. #29
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

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    I'm Steve.

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    My 'smart meter' follows me round the house, switching off lights. She hasn't twigged about the hi fi yet.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: Zu Omen Def, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Amptastic Mini One,Arcam A75 integrated, Celestion 5's, BK XLS-200 DF

    A/V:
    LG 55" OLED, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL Storm sub

    Forget the past, it's gone. And don't worry about the future, it doesn't exist. There is only NOW.

    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  10. #30
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,934
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    My 'smart meter' follows me round the house, switching off lights. She hasn't twigged about the hi fi yet.
    I rarely have more than one light on and that uses 2 watts an hour. So if I left it on continuously for 500 hours it would cost 12p. Lighting the house costs me about a quid a year.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

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