+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: How easy is it to put a new plinth on a Sondek LP12???

  1. #1
    Join Date: Jan 2019

    Location: Cambridgeshire, United Kingdom

    Posts: 908
    I'm Russell.

    Default How easy is it to put a new plinth on a Sondek LP12???

    I have a mid 80's Sondek LP12 which to my ears sounds great.

    It has a Sumiko MMT arm (Jelco for all intents and purposes) with a modified Denon DL103r and a Lingo Power Supply.

    It is currently in it's original Rosewood fluted plinth which is the stumbling block now that everything else in my office (where it resides) is Oak wood so stands a bit too much for my liking.

    Is it worth getting a new Oak plinth to match my speakers and office furniture and if so, how easy is it to transfer over?

    Another option would be to paint or wrap the original plinth but again I know nothing about this so would need some professional help I guess?

    Anyone got any tips / ideas they can share?

  2. #2
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Melbourne

    Posts: 445
    I'm Karl.

    Default

    Honestly it’s a piece of piss mate. A lot of the linnies would have you believe that there is some sort of voodoo and only one or two people out there that can do it properly which is none sense. Yes it takes an hour or two and takes a bit of patience and savvy but if you can use a socket set and a screwdriver you will be fine .

    If you can undo u few nuts and bolts , and clips and know how to use spirit levels then there is nothing to it. It’s so basic inside you really can’t go wrong if you take your time. When you see it you will wonder why they cost so bloody much. I’m speaking from experience as I built my own from parts as I wasn’t paying linn prices . I’ve since done it numerous times as I upgraded the TT with better parts .


    I just leveled up a couple of stools on my table to allow me to get underneath the TT easily then clamped my santos rosewood plinth to those . I then remove everything and bagged and labeled the bits, or just neat piles the second time to keep it organised , then clamp the new plinth on and Releveled again off of the plinth top and sides , then you are good to go if the plinth is well made .

    Just systematically rebolt everything back on In reverse order you took it off in. Just as you go , make sure you get all of your spring bolts hang level too.

    Don’t over tighten any bolts, just nipped up tight with an extra quarter turn will do otherwise you can deform the thin linn top plate . I had a thick aftermarket top plate so this wasn’t an issue for me.
    Then using the spring bolts level up the platter ,subchassis and armboard until everything is bang on level and plumb and flush with plinth and top plate and that you have a nice even pistonic bounce on the springs .

    Then make sure that the tonearm cable is not fouling anywhere or affecting the bounce of the chassis, same goes for the cable from the PSU.

    Once that’s done just put the baseboard back on and level it up to your rack. DONE.

    It’s just taking the time and effort to get all things leveled that make the difference .

    It seems daunting but there is only about 5-10 bolts to undo and some clips for the cables and PSU so just write everything down in order you remove things then retrace your steps when reassembling. And level everything spot on mate .

    Happy to help if you need it.

    Just depends how valuable your time is as you can probably get a dealer to do it for 100 quid or so


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    CTC Classic 301 , SPH bearing and Hanze Hifi HAT CPS-2 all analogue power supply / Tenuto Mk2 mat / custom Panzerholz and Kewasinga articulating plinth / Track audio isolation feet / Reed tonearm / Audio Technica ART 9 / 2 box BigBottle mk3 phonostage with Clarity cap CMR and NOS Telefunkens valves / Croft 25R preamp with upgraded 12BH7A line stage and NOS 1956 RCA valves / Croft 7R monoblocks with NOS 56 RCA valves/ Dynaudio Contour 30i speakers / Spotfire interconnects and speaker cables / Merlin Scorpion mains block / Rhodium mains cables / Marantz CD DAC /

  3. #3
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Worcestershire, UK

    Posts: 1,101
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    I thoroughly enjoyed stripping my LP12 down to fit a new sub-chassis. As Karl states it's straightforward, and even a fool like me can managed it.

    I built my own maintenance stand to hold the deck while I stripped it, which I think made the job a lot easier. Stack Audio where advertising a rental service for a stand recently - though I can't see it on their site now. I'd suggest contacting them to see if the stand is still available. I'd also recommend Stack Audio upgrades as making a significant improvement to my deck without breaking the bank ... while you've got the deck apart.
    Rob.
    Powered by crossed fingers and clenched buttocks

  4. #4
    Join Date: Jul 2012

    Location: Wirral, UK

    Posts: 229
    I'm Carl.

    Default

    I’ve got the stack audio jig for the LP12 and it works really well and allows the build to be simple. There are some good YouTube vids on setting up a Linn and the Peter Swain/ Cymbiosis LP12 setup guides are invaluable. The hardest part is getting the bounce right and dressing the arm cable on a Linn but its doable with some study, patience and practice. Join up on the Linn Sondek LP12 facebook group for support. Lots of home builders on there and despite what you may imagine, it isn’t full of evangelical Linnies. Well it is a bit but there is a peaceful co-existence of die hards and progressives :-) They are hugely knowledgable and massively helpful to folks attempting this kind of thing themselves.. All the setup guides available are in their files section too.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2019

    Location: Cambridgeshire, United Kingdom

    Posts: 908
    I'm Russell.

    Default

    Thanks all.

    Apologies but I’ve had it bought to my attention that I don’t have the Rosewood plinth currently. Not sure what it is so any help on this as well would be appreciated



  6. #6
    Join Date: Feb 2020

    Location: Fife, Scotland

    Posts: 160
    I'm Gordon.

    Default

    Looks like Afromosia to me, a type of Teak alternative that I believe Linn used in the earlier days. But I'm happy to be contradicted.

    Looks very much like mine:

    Last edited by WullieD20; 26-10-2020 at 15:43.
    Technics SL1000R, DynavectorXV1t, Garrard 401, Jelco SA750LB, Decca Reference, ATVM750SH, AT33Mono, Hana Umami Red, Reimyo CDP777, EarYoshino 912, Ear Yoshino 509s, JBLK2 SL5800s, ART Dram interconnects / speaker cables.

  7. #7
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

    Posts: 14,688
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WullieD20 View Post
    Looks like Afromosia to me, a type of Teak alternative that I believe Linn used in the earlier days. But I'm happy to be contradicted.
    Yes I'd say that is Afromosia, the same as my old LP12 from the 80's. I spray painted mine black as Mrs. P didn't like that teak colour. I made a right bollocks of it
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
    Speakers: Zu Omen Def, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Amptastic Mini One,Arcam A75 integrated, Celestion 5's, BK XLS-200 DF

    A/V:
    LG 55" OLED, Panasonic Blu Ray, Sony a/v amp, MA Radius speakers, REL Storm sub

    Forget the past, it's gone. And don't worry about the future, it doesn't exist. There is only NOW.

    KICKSTARTER: ENABLING SCAMMERS SINCE 2009

  8. #8
    Join Date: Feb 2020

    Location: Fife, Scotland

    Posts: 160
    I'm Gordon.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    I made a right bollocks of it
    . . Never a good result, eh? Out with the Nitromors!!
    Technics SL1000R, DynavectorXV1t, Garrard 401, Jelco SA750LB, Decca Reference, ATVM750SH, AT33Mono, Hana Umami Red, Reimyo CDP777, EarYoshino 912, Ear Yoshino 509s, JBLK2 SL5800s, ART Dram interconnects / speaker cables.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Dec 2018

    Location: Alford Lincolnshire

    Posts: 84
    I'm William.

    Default

    Hi

    At the expense of being obvious but nobody has mentioned it, take loads of pictures with your phone or such like of the insides, as this gives you a reference to refer back to, just to make sure you put all the bits back in the right place.

    Hope this helps

    Regards

    William

  10. #10
    Join Date: Feb 2020

    Location: Fife, Scotland

    Posts: 160
    I'm Gordon.

    Default

    In addition to all the help that's available from members and other forums, you can find the Linn user and maintenance (set up) manuals, which are very comprehensive, available in the Vinyl Engine web site. (as are many other LP12 associated documents).
    Also, it's advisable to have a couple of tube (box) spanners ready to use on the sub-chassis mounting nuts, which are designed as an interference fit, so not quite so easy with standard spanners. Sizes available in the 'set up manual' from Vinyl Engine.

    G.
    Technics SL1000R, DynavectorXV1t, Garrard 401, Jelco SA750LB, Decca Reference, ATVM750SH, AT33Mono, Hana Umami Red, Reimyo CDP777, EarYoshino 912, Ear Yoshino 509s, JBLK2 SL5800s, ART Dram interconnects / speaker cables.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •