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Thread: Drilling die cast aluminium - Garrard 301

  1. #1
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 8,415
    I'm AnDreW.

    Default Drilling die cast aluminium - Garrard 301

    Guys, need some advice. I would like to drill 3 small holes into the chassis of my Garrard 301. I intend mounting a tuned mass damper and stiffening the Garrard's chassis at the same time. I've been looking into drill bit. Would I be right in thinking that Cobalt drill bit's are the way forward, additional what's the best advice for drilling into the 301, is it best to take things slow and steady i.e. using the drill at a slow RPM?

    Thanks

    Andy
    SS

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    Croft Epoch(Modified) AMP Sondex S100 (Modified) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Reference XO DECKS Garrard301/401 (Bastin) Mat Teunto Bearings 301/401(Bastin) Plinth Moldovan/Bastin Arms 3009/3012(Ikeda Ag wired) SME V 12 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister v2 / Royall N SPU's CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ Speaker 10mm Cu + WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostage Paradise(4 Box Modded) / EAR 834 Clone (modded)

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  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 44,969
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Not sure what the alloy is Andy, but make sure you've got a drill depth stop to suit unless you want to go right through.
    The word is 'valves' in this country, not tubes. Tubes are what Smarties come in!

  3. #3
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 254
    I'm Mark.

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    Cobalt drills are fantastic, but as brittle as buggery - if you move about slightly while drilling you WILL snap the bit. High Speed Steel will be perfectly sufficient.
    I always use drilling and tapping fluid (oil), but a bit of engine oil or even olive oil will do as a lubricant while drilling, and slow is best!


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  4. #4
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Glasgow

    Posts: 7,419
    I'm Brian.

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    Yup , agreed , Aluminium isn't that hard so HSS drills should be sufficient . How thick , or depth of hole , is the piece you want to drill Andy , and what diameter is the hole to be drilled ?
    Regards
    Brian

    Sell your cleverness and buy bewilderment . (Rumi )


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  5. #5
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 8,415
    I'm AnDreW.

    Default

    Guys, thanks for the advice. I was wanting to make a tuned mass damper (TMD) for the underside of my Garrard 301. It looks like a don't need to drill straight into the chassis as the TMD just sits in place over the area it's supposed to dampen without the need of screws to fasten it down.
    SS

    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DAC Caiman SEG+15V PSU+Dorado DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe/Ebony PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE

    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modified) AMP Sondex S100 (Modified) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Reference XO DECKS Garrard301/401 (Bastin) Mat Teunto Bearings 301/401(Bastin) Plinth Moldovan/Bastin Arms 3009/3012(Ikeda Ag wired) SME V 12 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister v2 / Royall N SPU's CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ Speaker 10mm Cu + WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostage Paradise(4 Box Modded) / EAR 834 Clone (modded)

    REAL SOUND


    PRE Radford SC25 (Mullard ECC83/82) POWER RADFORD STA25 Renaissance (Electroharmonix EL34) SPEAKERS Celestion Ditton 15 (Duelund Rewired/Jantzen+Duelund Recapped) CABLES Speaker - Duelund AWG 12IC - Belden 8402+Switchcraft RCA



  6. #6
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 1,621
    I'm Dennis.

    Default

    I've been drilling die-cast boxes since the 60s, and always used HSS, and I'm about to do another project now using one.

    If a job requires care and control, and is not a lot of hard work, as in drilling alloy, I use a hand drill because they have the advantage that control is more direct, both of pressure and speed, and you can feel any extra tight cutting and ease of a little.

    The real difficulty I find with using a hand held electric drill is that speed regulation is often not very controllable or fine, and they love to really grab the material especially with a sharp drill.

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