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Thread: Mains power questions

  1. #1
    Join Date: Apr 2014

    Location: swansea

    Posts: 385
    I'm gerald.

    Default Mains power questions

    Looking for advice on my mains supply to my Hi-FI set up. I have a separate supply going from my consumer unit to a socket ,The consumer unit is just the other side of the wall .
    I use a 10 way BBC Olson power block with switch and led removed and the supply lead is 2.5mm sy cable.
    I would like to add surge protection so and idea what surge protector I could use before the Olson block ,I have even thought of fitting a second consumer unit.
    So any thoughts or advice surge protection is my main concern?

  2. #2
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 5,256
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    Can you fit a surge protector in the consumer unit?
    This kind of thing https://hager.com/uk/support/regulat...rge-protection
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  3. #3
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 23,806
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

    Default

    I have a dedicated ring for my audio system feeding 20 MK sockets. The ring is fed by Hager RCBO unit, completely separate from the consumer unit feeding the rest of the house. I don't use any form surge protector, although my original Olson socket strip was fitted with a Schaffner RFI filter and a VDR surge suppressor. Like you, I removed the switch and neon indicator, and replaced the flying mains lead.
    Barry

  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2014

    Location: swansea

    Posts: 385
    I'm gerald.

    Default

    I have a dedicated ring for my audio system feeding 20 MK sockets. The ring is fed by Hager RCBO unit, completely separate from the consumer unit feeding the rest of the house. I don't use any form surge protector, although my original Olson socket strip was fitted with a Schaffner RFI filter and a VDR surge suppressor. Like you, I removed the switch and neon indicator, and replaced the flying mains lead.
    Barry can you explain in a idiots guide what you mean is it a extra consumer unit wired from where the main come into the house or do you mean something like this.
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...IaAmbUEALw_wcB

    I WILL NOT EVEN ENTER THE THOUGHT OF DOING ANY OF THIS WORK BEFORE ANYONE SAY`S

    I am just trying to get a better understanding so I can Explain to my sparky what I what, As he is imobile with a broken ankle.

    Barry any chance of a picture of what you have done with your system?

    Regards Gerry

    Ps sorry if is a stupid question but seeing a picture and not a written explanation seems dull but this is how my form of dyslexia effects me

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 23,806
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

    Default

    Hello Gerald,

    A picture is worth a thousand words:



    The small white unit (just above the rubber boots!) is the Hager 'consumer unit' feeding the dedicated ring for my audio system. Within the unit is the main 100A residual current circuit breaker (RCBO) and a 32A MCB (miniature circuit breaker).

    The large white unit above the Company Fuse, where the mains cable comes into the house, is a Wylex 8-way consumer unit covering the rest of the house. It too has a 100A RCBO mains circuit breaker, with the other ways populated with RCBO's of the appropriate rating: 5A for lighting, 32A for the general ring main and sockets, and 32A for the cooker.

    The two consumer units have their incoming 'tails' joined using a Henley block (the unit just behind the rubber boots, with the Danger label affixed), and thence to the electricity meter; to the left and out of the photo.

    If you have a spare way in your consumer unit then you can fit a RCBO unit to cover your dedicated socket or ring for your audio system. If you only want to have the one socket, then the rating of the RCBO will need to be 16A. I had all the work done by a professional electrician so I could have the necessary paper work for insurance purposes.

    Trust this is of some help.
    Barry

  6. #6
    Join Date: Jan 2018

    Location: Blackpool UK

    Posts: 57
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Instead of a dedicated circuit for my hifi, Iím using a PurePower AC mains regenerator, and HB laboratory cables after that. At first I was unsure of the benefits of the PurePower? But after talking to my Amp Tech, I discovered that the constant 230V output is beneficial for my valve equipment which is manufactured to work better at 230V as the EU standard. So I have kept it and bought the HB Labs cables, which are very good, and do make a difference (Iím ducking now, waiting for the power cable flak!!) I was a non-believer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Join Date: Apr 2014

    Location: swansea

    Posts: 385
    I'm gerald.

    Default

    The small white unit (just above the rubber boots!) is the Hager 'consumer unit' feeding the dedicated ring for my audio system. Within the unit is the main 100A residual current circuit breaker (RCBO) and a 32A MCB (miniature circuit breaker).

    The large white unit above the Company Fuse, where the mains cable comes into the house, is a Wylex 8-way consumer unit covering the rest of the house. It too has a 100A RCBO mains circuit breaker, with the other ways populated with RCBO's of the appropriate rating: 5A for lighting, 32A for the general ring main and sockets, and 32A for the cooker.

    The two consumer units have their incoming 'tails' joined using a Henley block (the unit just behind the rubber boots, with the Danger label affixed), and thence to the electricity meter; to the left and out of the photo.

    If you have a spare way in your consumer unit then you can fit a RCBO unit to cover your dedicated socket or ring for your audio system. If you only want to have the one socket, then the rating of the RCBO will need to be 16A. I had all the work done by a professional electrician so I could have the necessary paper work for insurance purposes.

    Trust this is of some help.
    I do have a spare couple of spaces on my main consumer unit so am I right in thinking I can a another ring main just for my set?
    the run from my consumer to my set up only need to go through a single brick wall and the run will only be 10 feet max ,I was going to get hospital grade wall socket`s ,My system is plugged into a 10 gang Oloson BBC block with neon and switch removed .
    If I can get a new ring wired up how many sockets can I mount .
    Sorry for all the stupid questions give me a engine to rebuild I have no problem electrics I can not get my head around ,I just want a basic understanding for when my sparky can call after he recovers from his broken ankle .
    Many thanks Gerry
    Last edited by diviy; 25-10-2020 at 03:50.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 29,216
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    To fully isolate the hi-fi from the rest of the electrics you'll need a second consumer unit just for the hi-fi ring like Barry has done.
    Current Lash Up:

    *Oppo BDT-101CI* Nelson Pass DCB1 / Krell KSA100 mkII * JM Lab Electra 926 *


    'You fool! To think that your ape-brain could contain the full knowledge of the Krell!'

  9. #9
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 23,806
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

    Default

    Hi Gerald,

    If you want to add a second ring main, you can indeed fit a 32A circuit breaker in your consumer unit (assuming there is a spare way available). Provided the ring is protected by a 32A rated device there is no limit to the number of sockets on the ring, provided the total floor area fed by the ring does not exceed 100m2.

    The IET Wiring Regulations (BS 7671) permit an unlimited number of 13A socket outlets (at any point unfused single or double, or any number fused) to be installed on a ring circuit, provided that the floor area served does not exceed 100 m2.

    In my case the floor area of the lounge/listening room is aproximately 35m2, and the audio ring is fitted with 20 sockets. I use electrostatic speakers which need a mains supply, as well as using monoblock power amplifiers located directly behind eack speaker, so that accounts for 4 sockets; the rest are located behind my equipment rack and are needed for the TTs, a tuner, CDP and external DAC (if used), various preamps, phono stages and buffer amplifiers, and for tape machines when used.


    Some would say that it is better to have a completely separate consumer unit for the audio ring as I have, but I'm not that convinced; anymore than I'm not convinced by the need to have the sockets in a distribution strip wired in 'star' fashion, rather than being 'daisy-chained'. The only reason I had a separate CU fitted was because there were no spare ways left in the existing CU. After the audio ring was installed, I later had the old fuse box CU replaced with the one shown using modern RCBO circuit breakers.

    But whatever you decide to do, I would recommend employing a fully qualified professional electrician to do the work for you - that way you will be provided with an appropriate certificate for insurance purposes.

    PS What do you mean by "hospital grade" sockets?
    Barry

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