Replacing binding posts

[Macca]

Matthew 7:6

(My advice for what it's worth is leave it alone. Nothing wrong with the binding posts Tannoy put in. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Especially if you're not comfortable doing surgery on your speakers).

[spendorman]

Matthew 7:6

(My advice for what it's worth is leave it alone. Nothing wrong with the binding posts Tannoy put in. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Especially if you're not comfortable doing surgery on your speakers).

The only reason I changed mine was to make connection easier as most of my other speakers used 4mm banana plugs.

[HarryCrumb]

That is true, just look at my response to the request for help with the Thorens belt and pulley speed change problem.

Why do I bother?

...because some of us really appreciate the advice.




I upgraded the posts on my Eatons because the holes just just didn't seem big enough to take the cable I envisioned using, plus I wanted the option of banana plugs. They're the same as the OP's image. I had to enlarge the hole in the backplate just a little bit to get the new ones in, but If you choose well you could find some to fit. Definitely will need to take the driver out, and the backplate will come out without much persuasion as mentioned.

But, I would agree with Macca and say don't bother if you're not comfortable doing the work. I don't think you'll hear the difference.

[walpurgis]

I don't think you'll hear the difference.

You probably won't, but the standard posts are a pain to use and don't accept bananas.

[anthonyTD]

Because as others have said your efforts [and the many others here who take the time to offer sound advice] are appreciated Dennis.

That is true, just look at my response to the request for help with the Thorens belt and pulley speed change problem.

I gave a thorough analysis of the problem from a designer's point of view, writing an analysis in clear and explicit detail with a correct solution, using very clear English, (I used to write technical reports for the Scientific Instrument Research Association), and it seems to have been ignored, but another ready and simple answer thanked for.

Why do I bother?

[Marco]

Because as others have said your efforts [and the many others here who take the time to offer sound advice] are appreciated Dennis.

+1, however, as helpful and as thorough as you wish your advice to be, you should also keep it as short and to the point as possible, and not too technical (unless you know that the person receiving the advice genuinely understands the technicalities), as the attention span of most people these days isn't what it once was!

Therefore, if they have to trawl through reams of text (no matter how well-written or presented), in order to glean the information they want, they're going to get bored. For example, I always switch off when I see graphs, as I rarely understand what exactly they're supposed to illustrate...

Sorry, that's just how it is, especially as the vast majority of people will be accessing the site via a smartphone, and so why shorter, but arguably less erudite responses will often be acknowledged instead, simply because they take less time to read and are quicker to respond to!

'Tis the nature of the beast, unfortunately, but don't let that deter you from offering advice - just try and keep it as concise and easy to digest as possible!

Marco.

[Marco]

Matthew 7:6

(My advice for what it's worth is leave it alone. Nothing wrong with the binding posts Tannoy put in. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Especially if you're not comfortable doing surgery on your speakers).

In this instance, I agree. Normally I'm all for making such modifications (as I've done similar to my Lockwoods and Celestion Ditton 15XRs) - *if* it's the right thing to do, and crucially is being done by someone who's 100% proficient!

However, that not being the case, you're liable just to make things worse, by spending money simply creating a poorer connection. Also, looking at the binding posts in question, they're one of the better designs from that era (as I quite like 'wrap-around' terminals, which can be easily tightened), and also easily accessed.

Ok, they don't facilitate the use of super-thick speaker cables, but often such IME aren't any better than good quality thinner stuff, plus it's remarkable how by tightly twisting/crimping, then tinning the ends with solder, you can squeeze pretty thick cable into what seems like flimsy binding posts!

Furthermore, bare-wire connections, if properly maintained (when necessary by trimming back the ends and exposing new wire when what's there becomes oxidised, in order to maintain the integrity of the connection), are arguably the best, and better than using plugs, simply because the latter act as an additional interface for the signal to negotiate, and if they're not that good, in terms of design and/or material quality, they'll end up being more of a bottleneck.

So.... Unless Horacio is 100% confident in his ability to dismantle and replace the original binding posts, and properly fit something that's *genuinely* better, I'd leave well alone!

Marco.

[Barry]

That is true, just look at my response to the request for help with the Thorens belt and pulley speed change problem.

I gave a thorough analysis of the problem from a designer's point of view, writing an analysis in clear and explicit detail with a correct solution, using very clear English, (I used to write technical reports for the Scientific Instrument Research Association), and it seems to have been ignored, but another ready and simple answer thanked for. Why do I bother?

I can understand your annoyance Dennis. I too have replied to technical queries asked by some Members here, but received no thanks for my efforts, or even an acknowledgement.

Like you, my replies were full, precise and detailed (again I used to write technical and scientific research reports as part of my work). We do it to try to help others, not to receive kudos or prestige: it's all part of the Ethos of AoS.

[Lawrence001]

In similar situations I've used these they work a treat as long as the banana plugs aren't pulled on by the cable.

Look at this on eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293215812232

Sent from my HRY-LX1 using Tapatalk

[Edward]

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