Michell Gyrodec vs SME 20/2

[high.spirits]

I have had a Gyrodec for many years and considering a move to an SME 20/2. Is it a step up or just a change of sound?

I could upgrade my Gyro with new pylons in place of springs and upgrade the Gyro tonearm (SME Series III) so I can use various MCs cartridges. However for that cost i could get the SME turntable with V arm. Decisions decisions!

[Lurch]

Selling your arm should easily cover the costs to change to Petes pylons then adding eith an Audio mods 3 or 5, or possibly an OL Zephyr should be around £1k if you have a bit more to play with then adding an Orb platter would be the way I'd go. I must admit I find sme decks a bit dry where as Mitchell are very musical.

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[flapland]

I moved from a Orbe with A/C motor to a SME 20/2 and it was a significant improvement even with for a while the same Audiomods arm. Not very good a describing the differences but 7 years on still very happy. Also the SME 20/2 is a piece of cake to maintain and setup cartridges on.

[high.spirits]

Thanks for your comments, I'm still sitting on the fence, which way to go.....

[AJSki2fly]

I have had a Gyrodec for many years and considering a move to an SME 20/2. Is it a step up or just a change of sound?

I could upgrade my Gyro with new pylons in place of springs and upgrade the Gyro tonearm (SME Series III) so I can use various MCs cartridges. However for that cost i could get the SME turntable with V arm. Decisions decisions!

A friend went from Gyrodec to SME 20/2 with SME V and never looked back. I went from Gyrodec with SME IV(special build) which was virtually a V without VTF spring adjustment to Gorbe (Gyrodec with Orbe platter, better PSU, chassis upgrade kit), then added Pete's pylons and designed my own feet, all of which made it sound better but still not happy. So went to Voyd with SME IV, then Jelco TK850M 10" arm, as good as SME IV imo, this set up IMO was as good as what I had before but more involving. Finally moved to Pro-Ject Signature 10, if I could have afforded it I would have gone for a 12, very nice TT lots of detail, depth and blackness, great sound stage. The move to my current TT was definitely a VFM move resulting a great pleasurable listen IMHO.

If I had the money I would possibly go for a direct drive, something like a Brinkman Bardo and tonearm or STST Modus II with probably a Reed 12" or similar arm, or possibly stick with belt and go for an Origin Live Sovereign TT and 12" Arm. Spending much more than what the aforementioned are and I think it can become a bit of a minefield as to whether the improvement is really worth the extra, and its very easily to spend very large sums and end up with something you are not happy with and tricky to sell on with out serious loss.

If I did any of the above would it be a big improvement, I doubt it, perhaps subtle improvements in detail and depth, but it would cost at least twice what I have for maybe a subtle 2-3% improvement so perhaps not worth it.

[Vrajbasi]

Different sounds for sure the gyrodek not have the scale of the 20/2 and control in the bottom registers and stability, there are also different power supply updates even off the current type of psu and there are differences to be had. I find the suspension bands on sme turntables go hard and need to be replaced every two years the difference is quite huge. There is a lot to be said for sme ownership and would never put one off buying one. I tend to prefer the arms on other decks and the decks fitted with other manufacturers tonearms that's just me. Some older 20,s had tight bearings that could cause problems especially in cold climates. I would always factor a service and get the tonearm checked at the same time. The gyro while not the most transparent deck around and even the most stable sound is not a bad deck for sure for what it is.

I remember years back when I owned a 20/2 sending back for a service thinking my deck sounding great sounded so much better when it came back.

[Barry]

I have no direct experience of either TT/arm comination, but a friend of mine has an Orbe fitted with an SME IV (fettled by SME, so effectively a V, but without the adjustable VTF). He is constantly 'tinkering' with it and recently the power supply failed and had to be repaired/replaced by Mitchel at a cost of £200.

Were it me, I would go for the SME 20/2, but I have heard from users I trust that, ironically, the SME V arm is not a good sonic match for the SME TT.

[Vrajbasi]

The graham phantom always worked well with the 20/2 I used that combination for a while and was easy to use and set up, being able to purchase with a sme mounting base also made it a good choice. A good series v can also sound ok I find the Sme V very sample dependent maybe because it has so many parts on the arm and more to adjust when building the tonearm. I have to agree with Barry the Sme 20/2 should be considered strongly. The 20/3 is quite a step up though with its heavier sub chassis and platter better built to. The model 15 is also an advancement on the 20/2 using the same platter the main bearing is also not as tight so will give less long term problems and has a more substantial sub assembly.

[Audio Al]

My choice would be the SME

[prestonchipfryer]

I've been using a Model 15/V now for two years and am highly delighted with the results I get from it. Pure pleasure and a doddle to set up.