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Thread: Differential in sound quality between turntable and digital - Old Linn system

  1. #31
    Join Date: Apr 2012

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    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BDD View Post
    Looks like a choice between a Cambridge Audio 551p or 640p - the latter has no on/off button but is MM and MC. The former is MM only. I think that the 640p is an older model but may be ‘better’ spec. Any thoughts welcome - sorry for all the questions, it’s been a great help this thread.
    They are both fine for the money they usually fetch. Not the ultimate obviously, but better than some other options.
    "when common sense, logic and plausibility are excluded. All that remain are foolishness and lies"

  2. #32
    Join Date: May 2020

    Location: Suffolk

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    I'm Ray.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BDD View Post
    I’ve found a cambridge audio azure 551p for sale for not much....I wonder if it’s worth a punt?


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    Yes well worth it. If you don't need it, it will be easy to sell on. But if it's the one I saw I think it has gone now.

  3. #33
    Join Date: Dec 2019

    Location: East Lothian

    Posts: 64
    I'm Brian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJSki2fly View Post
    Hi Brian, I did not realise from your first post that the AT cartridge was new, and you are quite correct is is a decent cartridge. Did you fit it or did a dealer?

    Anyway if it is a different cartridge from what was previously on the arm then the set up might not be quite right for VTA, VTF and Azimuth, all of which are critical to sound quality. Have a read of https://zstereo.co.uk/2016/05/24/linn-basik/ in this review there are some important points about getting the best out of the Basik by isolating it, also the set up of the arm in the manual may help if you don't have the manual https://docs.linn.co.uk/wiki/images/..._user_manl.PDF, in case you don't have this. If you need advise on Vertical Tracking Angle with the Audio Technica VM95EN, I am sure one or two on here can advise. Vertical Tracking force you can check with a cartridge simple tracking gauge.

    As it is a fixed head shell on the arm setting up Azimuth is not so easy if it is not correct. A simple way to checkout is correct is to get a test record with a 300hz Azimuth test track like the HiFi Answers one and when you play that track you can measure the decibel level coming from each speaker using a dB meter on a mobile phone, (SPLnFFT is a free one and is good) the level should be identical from each (you need to hold the phone about 1 foot in front of each speaker, in front of the mid range driver).

    Apologies in advance if you have already done or checked all this stuff.
    Thanks so much for all those bits and pieces. I will follow those up!


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  4. #34
    Join Date: Dec 2019

    Location: East Lothian

    Posts: 64
    I'm Brian.

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    Iíve bought a Cambridge Audio Azur 551p. It will be interesting to hear how this compares with the phono in the Linn Majik1 amplifier.

    Iíve got a further question! As Iíve mentioned, the Majik1 is an old Linn integrated amp but is now only being used as a pre amp in an active system. On the power side I have two LK100 amps on bass and treble.

    To bypass the existing phono stage in the Majik1, is it simply a case of plugging the external phono stage into aux 1 on the Majik? Thanks again.

  5. #35
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Seaton, Devon, UK

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    I'm Adrian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BDD View Post
    Iíve bought a Cambridge Audio Azur 551p. It will be interesting to hear how this compares with the phono in the Linn Majik1 amplifier.

    Iíve got a further question! As Iíve mentioned, the Majik1 is an old Linn integrated amp but is now only being used as a pre amp in an active system. On the power side I have two LK100 amps on bass and treble.

    To bypass the existing phono stage in the Majik1, is it simply a case of plugging the external phono stage into aux 1 on the Majik? Thanks again.
    With respect to the LK100s it sound like you have one driving the treble part of each loudspeaker and the other the bass drivers of each speaker. I have not considered doing this it is more usual to use one amp for each channel.

    If your aux1 is a normal line input then this what you would connect the external phono stage to.


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    Listening is the act of aural discrimination and dissemination of sound, and accepting you get it wrong sometimes


    Pro-Ject Signature 10 TT & arm, Benz Micro LP-S & Michel Cusis MC cartridge, Furutech AG-12-R4 High Performance Phono Cable, LFD MMC special phono stage, Rothwell MCX SUT, RaspberryPi/HifiBerry Digi to Beresford Caiman SEG DAC, Sony 3d blu-Ray for CDs to Caiman SEG, ALLNIC T1500 MKII SET 300B amp, Wilson Benesch Vector speakers and JBL L100 Century's , Chord Epic speaker leads, & signature links, the Eccose Conductor CA1 cd to pre, I think I am at audio nirvana, but donít tell anyone

  6. #36
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Chorley Lancs

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    I'm Steve.

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    If you have inputs on the pre amp that say 'tuner' or 'CD', either of those will do.
    I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in

    T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon 2M Black. Phono: Yaqin MS-22B CD: Densen Beat B400 Plus; Headphone/pre: Myryad Z40; Amp: Audion Silver Night 300b stereo
    Speakers: Zu Omen Def. Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables

    T'other system:
    Echo Dot, Amptastic Mini-1, Celestion 5's, BK XLS-200 DF

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  7. #37
    Join Date: Dec 2019

    Location: East Lothian

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    I'm Brian.

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    Many thanks, that makes sense.


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  8. #38
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

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    I'm Dennis.

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    A friend recently bought a pair of benchmark AHB2s to use on a pair of JBL k"s, and used one amp for the tweeters on each and the other for the woofer sections.

    I made the point that the tweeter driving amp was probably doing a lot less work than the woofer driving amp, and suggested that he use one complete amp per side.

    This would place an equal demand on the power supplies of each amp, tweeters using much less power than woofers.

    He was surprised at this suggestion, but I recently came across an article which defined the methods as vertical, and horizontal, and it recommended the latter. It also shortens the speaker cables.

  9. #39
    Join Date: Dec 2019

    Location: East Lothian

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    I'm Brian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pharos View Post
    A friend recently bought a pair of benchmark AHB2s to use on a pair of JBL k"s, and used one amp for the tweeters on each and the other for the woofer sections.

    I made the point that the tweeter driving amp was probably doing a lot less work than the woofer driving amp, and suggested that he use one complete amp per side.

    This would place an equal demand on the power supplies of each amp, tweeters using much less power than woofers.

    He was surprised at this suggestion, but I recently came across an article which defined the methods as vertical, and horizontal, and it recommended the latter. It also shortens the speaker cables.
    Interesting, thanks. The Linn set up uses an active circuit card - a treble card and a bass card - and each is placed in separate amps. I donít think there would be a way to configure differently as one amp will have to serve the woofer in both speakers and the other amp the treble.


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  10. #40
    Join Date: Dec 2019

    Location: East Lothian

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    I'm Brian.

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    I managed to source a Cambridge Audio 551p to see how this compares to the phono stage in the Majik1. It was interesting - the 551p has a slightly thinner sound with less emphasis on bass. Perhaps ok on detail and maybe a tad more treble. On balance, I do not think it offers an improvement on the Majik1. The Majik certainly has a richer, fuller sound with a notable emphasis on decay. I may try it on another system I have in another room to see if it offers anything different there. It may well end up in classifieds soon but it was an interesting comparison. I will probably upgrade from the Majik1 to something like a Wakonda at some point.


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